TheFlymo Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 As per the title, I had a bearing collapse in a 600 SRAD rear wheel on the disc-side. The outer bearing shell is stuck in the hub. I've seen advice to use heat to expand the hub, but I'm wary of doing this to an ally wheel -surely enough heat to expand it would affect it's material properties? Anyway is there an alternative, i.e. anyone know a puller or tool I can use to get it out? There should be enough meat on the actual raised bearing surface to get some sort of puller legs underneath. I'd rather have a crack at it myself before taking it somewhere (and yes, I like buying tools!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 You'd need a slide hammer set for this, not cheap, but I may have access to a duplicate set at P1 we could sell on, slow soln. Sounds like you want to put an arc welder on the shell, stick the rod on and yank out while hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollygiant Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Can you not slide a bar or a large flat screwdriver (You know the old knackerd one we all have as a chisel!!!) in from other side and tap it out that way?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlymo Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 You'd need a slide hammer set for this, not cheap, but I may have access to a duplicate set at P1 we could sell on, slow soln. Sounds like you want to put an arc welder on the shell, stick the rod on and yank out while hot. Ah yeah good point, a normal pullers got nothing to "push" against- didn't think of that. How much for a decent slide hammer? I can think of all sorts of uses for one..... (ish) Can you not slide a bar or a large flat screwdriver (You know the old knackerd one we all have as a chisel!!!) in from other side and tap it out that way?? Nah it's properly wedged in there. Problem is the bearing sits against an inner "wall" in the hub only the bearing spacer fits through, so the race itself is kind of hidden behind the wall if you see what I mean. I've hacked at it with as many tools as I can without completely FUBARing the hub. I did consider drilling a few holes behind the shell and seeing if I could drift if out, but it seems a bit extreme. Getting some weld on the race in order to pop it out seems like the best idea, but means I have to take it somewhere, and I won't need to buy any new, shiny tools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwakap Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Ah yeah good point, a normal pullers got nothing to "push" against- didn't think of that. How much for a decent slide hammer? I can think of all sorts of uses for one..... (ish) Nah it's properly wedged in there. Problem is the bearing sits against an inner "wall" in the hub only the bearing spacer fits through, so the race itself is kind of hidden behind the wall if you see what I mean. I've hacked at it with as many tools as I can without completely FUBARing the hub. I did consider drilling a few holes behind the shell and seeing if I could drift if out, but it seems a bit extreme. Getting some weld on the race in order to pop it out seems like the best idea, but means I have to take it somewhere, and I won't need to buy any new, shiny tools have you not got a little mig welder? or at least have access to one? run a bead of weld round the inside of the bearing face, as the weld cools it contracts, pulls the shell inwards and out it drops. (assuming it hasn't spum amd friction welded itself to the inside of the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Not big enough Hmmmmmmm Bit expensive this These are your options In response to mille mille I'm thinking of the expanding collett type, can't find on at moment though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlymo Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 if you can't get behind the bearing outer race then a slide hammer is no good to you either - the slide hammer still needs something to hook onto to pull against. There is a little lip- basically the bearing surface is a little raised ridge in the middle. Because the bearing outer surface is a little wider and sits against the "wall" there should be enough space to get something in there behind the bearing surface. Whether it's enough for a puller is anyone's guess... Before going down the arc welder route you could try taking a dremel with a fine carbide gringind tip to the inner race and cut it as far as possible in several places, without going into the hub, and then heating the wheel - leaving it in the sun on sunny day is enough, or failing that with a hot air gun - and then spray the inner race with chewing gum remover freeze spray. Repeat this several times and you might get the race to crack and be able to remove it in pieces. I've used this method on siezed head bearing outer races that didn't want to come out of the frame. That does seem to be the least labour intensive option. I was thinking though, isn't the material of the bearing shell going to be bastid hard? My cold chisel certainly didn't seem to make much of a scratch on it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlymo Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Not big enough Hmmmmmmm Bit expensive this These are your options In response to mille mille I'm thinking of the expanding collett type, can't find on at moment though. Hmmm.... toools.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...dFamilyId=20342 I bought one of these sets a while back as I needed to replace a front and rear set of wheel bearings on my SV and I'm setting myself the task of renewing all the bearings and rollers at the rear end (swingarm, shock linkages etc) this winter so it'll have paid for itself soon enough. Easy to use (even have a step by step vid on youtube). Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...dFamilyId=20342 I bought one of these sets a while back as I needed to replace a front and rear set of wheel bearings on my SV and I'm setting myself the task of renewing all the bearings and rollers at the rear end (swingarm, shock linkages etc) this winter so it'll have paid for itself soon enough. Easy to use (even have a step by step vid on youtube). Pete That's what I'm thinking of, looks like RS Components don't still have access to the ones Phase One owns (2 of), still might be a bit small 30mm not that good for wheel bearing outer race. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 smokes 4 ever Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 get yourself a dremmel or similar, grind the shell in two places, opposite each other so that its nearly through to the alloy Place chisel or similar on it and a sharp blow should break it into two pieces and it will drop out This technique works a treat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 That's what I'm thinking of, looks like RS Components don't still have access to the ones Phase One owns (2 of), still might be a bit small 30mm not that good for wheel bearing outer race. I'd probably go for the dremel cut-out technique. Go very fookin carefully, and cut almost all the way through then stick a flat screwdriver in the cut and twist it/ beat it with a hammer and the metal will eventualy split along the cut line. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 get yourself a dremmel or similar, grind the shell in two places, opposite each other so that its nearly through to the alloy Place chisel or similar on it and a sharp blow should break it into two pieces and it will drop out This technique works a treat Agreed, i've done this on bikes and various machinary at work. I usually make 3 slits so its easier to break the chunks out. Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlymo Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Cheers all for the advice! Reckon a 135watt dremel-type tool will be man enough? Specifically this: http://tinyurl.com/lqobjo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwakap Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 You all love a bit of hard work, can you not get behind onto that little lip and twat it, i used to rebuild industrial gearboxes and replacing bearings from inside housings all the time, if you get it square it will drift out no problem. or go for the welder............ more fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Cheers all for the advice! Reckon a 135watt dremel-type tool will be man enough? Specifically this: http://tinyurl.com/lqobjo Its near enough what i have, they usually come with a selection of tools, i usually use a small slitting disk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted August 12, 2009 Report Share Posted August 12, 2009 Be very careful if you are going to try and split the shell by grinding and twatting it with a chisel- it is all to easy to damage the bearing cup in the hub and suffer problems with misalignemnt in the future. If you have a small lip of the inner race that is proud of the hub then get yourself a length of brass bar and use that as a drift , combined with a bit of heat from a hot air gun on the hub, to sweat the race out. The brass will not damage the ally of the hub or the steel of the bearing race. I'm not a big fan of using expanding collet type pullers or slide hammers becasue if you damage the lip of the bearing, with the collet invariably being steel, then you are properly fucked and forced to go for the heat/freeze/splitting method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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