wesifume Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Did pb do a suspension setup guide fotr the 2004 Cbr1000? After the bit of chewing the tyres got at tday, i wonder if the suspension could do with adjustment. And any time i hit a speedbump, I'm sure i feel the wheel hitting the Concrete, 38psi at the front 36 rear. Any ideas or setup help, cheers. Wes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocJohn Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Did pb do a suspension setup guide fotr the 2004 Cbr1000? After the bit of chewing the tyres got at tday, i wonder if the suspension could do with adjustment. And any time i hit a speedbump, I'm sure i feel the wheel hitting the Concrete, 38psi at the front 36 rear. Any ideas or setup help, cheers. Wes I shall dig out my old settings tomorrow if I can find them for the '04. From memory, forks 5mm through yoke otherwise standard at the front aside from one turn off preload Rear was preload +1 step (leaving it 3 steps off max), compression was standard I think; rebound was definitely a lot less than standard. I shall double check if possible but this is a good ball-park -John (My old 'Blade - one of the best handlers out there!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadracer Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 To start with your tyre pressures are way off, 32fr 42R is ideal for street use and gives the best feedback, grip and tyre life. 34Fr 38R can "make up" for poor suspension and give a plusher feel but overall is just a band-aid, obviously. Next, it's well time for the suspension to be serviced- a full strip and clean, then fresh oil if it hasn't been changed before. It will be gack in your forks by now, guaranteed. If it's still the factory oil the suspension would've "worn in" on this oil and won't be operating as it should. THEN try DocJohn's set-up, his pic seems to do his set-up justice lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 I shall dig out my old settings tomorrow if I can find them for the '04. From memory, forks 5mm through yoke otherwise standard at the front aside from one turn off preload Rear was preload +1 step (leaving it 3 steps off max), compression was standard I think; rebound was definitely a lot less than standard. I shall double check if possible but this is a good ball-park -John (My old 'Blade - one of the best handlers out there!) Would you know what the base settings are? as i would have to work from there wooden eye* And your settings would be for your God like style wouldn't they, would they work for me? And is Roadracer right with pressures? seems odd to me. For the trackday, extremly warm for Ireland, i think i had 34 front and 32 rear. Shouldn't the Front tyre have more pressure than the rear..even for the road? @ roadracer, I will Replace the oil( maybe) but a full strip may be beyond me at the mo. Cheers lads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weety Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 So your road tyres chewed up on track and your suspension 'bumps' on speed bumps. Sounds about right to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 So your road tyres chewed up on track and your suspension 'bumps' on speed bumps. Sounds about right to me. Right so! Nah, i'm sure the rim of the wheel is hitting the deck over certain bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weety Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Right so! Nah, i'm sure the rim of the wheel is hitting the deck over certain bumps. The rim would be dented, there would be no doubt. Recommended tire pressures are 36 front 42 rear. On my '06 I used to run 34/34 on the road unless I had a pillion when I would increase to the recommended pressures. The standard suspension settings are in the user manual and/or haynes manual. According to 1000rr.org they are Forks Pre-load adjuster 7 turns from minimum (thats full anti-clockwise); Rebound adjuster 2 turns out from full clockwise; Compression adjuster 2 turns out from full clockwise Rear Spring pre-load Position 4; Rebound 2 1/2 turns out from full clockwise; compression damper 9 clicks out from full clockwise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocJohn Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Forks Pre-load adjuster 7 turns from minimum (thats full anti-clockwise); Rebound adjuster 2 turns out from full clockwise; Compression adjuster 2 turns out from full clockwise Rear Spring pre-load Position 4; Rebound 2 1/2 turns out from full clockwise; compression damper 9 clicks out from full clockwise These are indeed standard settings. The one I ran were: Forks Preload 6 turns from minimum; Rebound 2.5 turns out; Compression 2 turns out Rear Spring preload 3 or 4; Rebound 3 turns out; Compression 16 clicks out As far as tyre pressures go, I can only really comment on race tyres; I run Supercorsas at 31 front and 29 rear cold; or Dunlop 211Ntecs at 30 front 19 rear cold. -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Cheers Weety, Cheers DocJohn. Ye are both Gents* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadracer Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Sorry Wesi, I meant to say 36Fr 42R,(not 32Fr, like i originally posted...) You're probably feeling an over-harsh reaction from the slightly over-inflated front tyre over bumps... It is very rare that for a set of "street" tyres, the rear tyre is lower pressure than the front. To be honest, even on track 36Fr 42R works extremely well when the suspension is OK, and it is my opinion that lowering pressures is a "band-aid" for a lack of grip by increasing the size of the tyre's footprint. If grip is not substantial, you should obtain the correct compound tyre for your riding purpose-also to be used at the correct pressure. Anyways, bear in mind that the cheap 50cent pistons used in Honda's forks all have a slightly different profile, and one of the first things done in a revalve is to sand down the faces of the pistons so the shims can sit flush(like they are supposed to!!)... and many stock bike's settings can be very different between individual bikes. Having said that, some of your experiences point towards fork springs that are too soft(how much you weigh?) It is also important to use the correct viscosity oil when you change the oil(I am sure the owner's manual will tell you it's Showa Suspension Fluid SS-5, the closest aftermarket brand is Maxima Fork Oil 5wt) but if you let me know the OEM oil "weight" I can tell you what brands have similar properties,and is important if you're looking to retain the OEM feel of the Fireblade, using stock settings especially!! Let us know if you need more help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted August 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Sorry Wesi, I meant to say 36Fr 42R,(not 32Fr, like i originally posted...) You're probably feeling an over-harsh reaction from the slightly over-inflated front tyre over bumps... Let us know if you need more help There is a definite Bang in the bars when i hit certain bumps, maybe it is down to the oil being like water at this stage. I weigh 13-13/5 stone. I will go back to standard settings and try weety and DocJ's combos, but i willo do an oil change for the forks. would it be okay to do while the forks are in situ? Just drain from the bottom of the legs and fill from the top? what about the air gap at an angle, i suppose if you put the correct amount of fork oil in then the gap should be okay... Answers on a postcard. Thanks RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadracer Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 13st=82kg. You are not out of range for the stock springs but bottoming is deffo a possibility if the preload isn't near the upper end of it's adjustment...especially if it's un-maintained(old) suspension. Doing the fork's oil in situ.... well, in my honest opinion, it can be done but for a first oil change it really needs a clean as well. What you are doing is oil tuning the fast way, but as you said it will be impossible to measure oil height. The Workshop Manual will have the right amount of oil per fork, and I'd only attempt an in-situ job if I had this info at hand and a very good measuring device.... The other proper way to do it is remove forks, wind off preload, remove fork cap, remove spring + preload tube, measure current oil height, pump out ALL old oil, refill with fresh OEM or very similar fluid, bleed forks, measure oil height(+tune), then replace preload tube, spring, fork cap, and replace forks in bike(5mm thru yokes as per DocJohn!!). So yeah, it's a big job the first time but very much worth it for the return of performance. OR Pay a suspension specialist who has done all the research+bad experiences for you, to do it. That way you know it will be cleaned and rejuvenated and the shock could probably go along with it to be honest, for the same treatment! Your average garage will just bodge it, they always do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted August 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Well, me mate has a bike lift, so i would be able to get the whole lot off the deck. May leave it till the depths of winter to do. And i'll do it right, i'll take the feckers apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocJohn Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Well, me mate has a bike lift, so i would be able to get the whole lot off the deck. May leave it till the depths of winter to do. And i'll do it right, i'll take the feckers apart. You can get the forks out without taking the fairing off - just put it up on a rear paddock stand and stick a couple of axle stands under the crash-bungs. -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted August 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 You can get the forks out without taking the fairing off - just put it up on a rear paddock stand and stick a couple of axle stands under the crash-bungs. -John You sir, are a genius. Paddock stand, yup, Axle stands, yup, Crash mushrooms, yup i made sure i got them after i dropped the bike after rebuilding it to perfection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocJohn Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 You sir, are a genius. Paddock stand, yup, Axle stands, yup, Crash mushrooms, yup i made sure i got them after i dropped the bike after rebuilding it to perfection. For reference, you can do the same to take the shock out - up on paddock stand, wheel out, axle stands under lowest part of frame. I'm not a genius; more a very lazy chap indeed... -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 DJ, where in ireland would you recommend getting a rear shock rebuild done( not thata it needs it) And, when i'm doing the forks i may treat it to some braided lines..yay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocJohn Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 DJ, where in ireland would you recommend getting a rear shock rebuild done( not thata it needs it) Post it to england I sent it to Ktech -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 Post it to england I sent it to Ktech -John Ask a stupid question.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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