blow_away Posted July 25, 2009 Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 Watching the MotoGP and BSB practice sessions earlier, I notice that it only takes about a minute to swap a rear wheel. From watching the 24 hour race at Le Mans, I know that the Phase 1 boys can do it even quicker Changing the rear wheel on my bike takes about 15/20 minutes and its tiring, hard work. I don't have full dexterity in my left hand, so that doesn't help either. If I get 40 minutes between trackday sessions to change wheels then that is OK, but if it chucks it down 5 minutes before my session I tend to just change the front and take my chances The biggest problem is juggling all the spacers/chain adjusters/rear brake caliper mounting whilst holding the wheel above the ground and in the right orientation. I made up a sleeve of a smaller diameter than the spindle to aid location, which I push out when pushing the actual spindle through, but it does not really help me much. I am guessing that there is some sort of positive location for the wheel and the chain adjusters, and maybe a tube or sleeve to replace the spacers for the spindle to go through? Am I barking up the wrong tree? So if anyone knows how they make the wheels QD, preferably with some diagrams so I can make up the bits myself, I would be most grateful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted July 25, 2009 Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 watching with interest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abos Posted July 25, 2009 Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 Look at the pics at the following link. i'm working on a copy for my 06 zx636r but will have to modify the swingarm so am on the lookot for a spare. As you can see its not straight forward but i think it is worth the effort if you need quick changes. if anyone knows of a modern rear wheel spindle with a diameter of 20mm i would be grateful as making a new spindle from scratch is not that easy. http://www.flickr.com/photos/22697976@N00/...57601582731693/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 Main trick is making the wheel spacers captive. Keeping the cush drive & sprocket on the wheel may just be a case of lashing it together with cable ties, the alternative of retaining the sprocket and cush drive at the swing arm is complicated and expensive. You'll then have to make travelling blocks that support the outer of the wheel spacers in a half cup with about 3mm of bearing (bearing as in hold not race). These blocks support the wheel yet allow it to be lifted out vertically. If you then imagine a ramp on the forward edge of the half cups you'll be able to push the wheel forward and disengage the chain. When I say travelling blocks, I'm implying that they're able to move along the length of the swing arm to adjust chain tension, yet can be resticted. One side of these blocks has a threaded captive nut, the other has a loose tolerance sleeve that allows the spindle to pass through. The main difficulty is getting the rear disc aligned outside of the furthest point of the tyre, by about 1/2 a rear calipers width. This allows the disc to drop into the caliper, while engaging with the cups in the swing arm. Think WIDE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 Sorry that's just the rear! Front, same sort of story, captive wheel spacers and make sure that the spacer between the bearings is a loose fit on the spindle and stops the wheel bearings flopping around. Top hats, counter bored to the same diameter as the outer of the captive spacers need machining up. These top hats sit in the original or bored out spindle clamps at the fork bottom. One side threaded the other clearance, suggest steel may be your friend here. Take the counter bored recess out, into a half cup with an angle grinder or file and you've got QD once you've had a spindle made up. The real trick is that full race forks have a swivel mount at the spindle clamp, concentric with the stanchion, that allows you to mount a mudgaurd off it. This allows you the freedom to roll the wheel forward out of the cups and swivel the calipers outwards to clear the wheel rim. Why do I have thr horrible feeling that I'm gonna have all sorts of questions to answer now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 No questions but some pictures would just be just superb. The zx7rr link above shows quite a bit of detail, are your endurance bikes quite similar? This is why the PB mag forum is so superb! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 Have looked around, just not a photo person really. In truth there are so many different solutions to this conundrum it's worth leaving up in the air. I love the WEC, every time I look at another bike there is another revision/solution. Mr HRC goes through all sorts of training exercises with their up & coming design engineers. Wheel is still round though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 Have looked around, just not a photo person really. In truth there are so many different solutions to this conundrum it's worth leaving up in the air. I love the WEC, every time I look at another bike there is another revision/solution. Mr HRC goes through all sorts of training exercises with their up & coming design engineers. Wheel is still round though. Excellent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 one thing you might want to consider getting are some Gilles chain adjusters. I got some for the R1, not only do they make adjusting the chain a bit easier, but what's really helpful is that they make the chain adjuster blocks captive. so, when you remove the rear spindle, they stay in place. Likewise when you slide the spindle back in, you don't have to worry about them. Another really helpful tool for wheel changes is a Maxijak. Makes wheel changing so much easier - especially the rear, which is heavier, when you're having to piss about with the chain etc. PS meant to add, I have a Dymag front wheel and that has captive spacers, I'm guessing a similar aftermarket rear wheel might be the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 PS meant to add, I have a Dymag front wheel and that has captive spacers, I'm guessing a similar aftermarket rear wheel might be the same? Show us this Dymag then ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich7/12 Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 Oooh, that looks a lot like.... this endurance swingarm Looks good value to me - if I didn't have two swingarm options for mine I'd get this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Oooh, that looks a lot like.... this endurance swingarm Looks good value to me - if I didn't have two swingarm options for mine I'd get this. Its been up for sale a few weeks that, suprised it hasn't sold yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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