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RC45 - Bugger to start - bugger to fix


hollo

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If this had race plugs, was it a race bike. If yes did it ever have engine work ? Did someone do RC30 piston ring trick & remove one compression ring ? Crap for starting but fine on a race bike using a starting donkey.  As others have said do a cold  compression test & a leak down test. 

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On 6/10/2023 at 5:32 PM, Mohawk said:

If this had race plugs, was it a race bike. If yes did it ever have engine work ? Did someone do RC30 piston ring trick & remove one compression ring ? Crap for starting but fine on a race bike using a starting donkey.  As others have said do a cold  compression test & a leak down test. 

I don't think it was a race bike , more like someones trackday toy . It only gave an average power output of 113hp at the rear wheel with the only mod being an end can fitted . I've then added the full exhaust ,airbox and power commander , so I'm pretty sure it was not tuned.

I'll mention about the cold compression and leak down test when I hand it over to be fixed later in the year. Thanks for the suggestions

Mike .

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  • 4 months later...

I have an update - it's fixed and will now start from cold, thanks to Jim from Superbike Surgery . The ECU was at fault , and I'll try to explain.....

From stone cold the ECU was only firing the injectors the required longer firing time of 5 to 6m/s for only the first 4 revolutions so 2 power strokes of the crank , it then reverted to the warm running duration of opening the injectors of only approx 2m/s . So there was never enough fuel to fire it into life from cold . All the resistance readings from the coolant sensor are correct , and change with temp , but the ECU is ignoring this input . If a much larger resistance is added, the ECU actually sees this massive increase in resistance and will fire the injectors for the required 5 to 6m/s , so the bike will start from cold - Yay . However just to make things difficult the ECU then does not recognise the natural fall in resistance from the coolant sensor when the engine warms up , so stays at the longer injector values . The only way to get the injectors back to firing the warm duration of 2 to 3m/s is to turn the bike off and restart it .  Hopefully this is clear.

Jim's has made a fix for me, so I can add resistance and I'm now able to start it from cold ,but I plan to get another ECU as a permanent fix .  I think he's made a few youtube videos of the whole process ,which should be out in the near future.   

Mike .

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1 hour ago, hollo said:

I have an update - it's fixed and will now start from cold, thanks to Jim from Superbike Surgery . The ECU was at fault , and I'll try to explain.....

From stone cold the ECU was only firing the injectors the required longer firing time of 5 to 6m/s for only the first 4 revolutions so 2 power strokes of the crank , it then reverted to the warm running duration of opening the injectors of only approx 2m/s . So there was never enough fuel to fire it into life from cold . All the resistance readings from the coolant sensor are correct , and change with temp , but the ECU is ignoring this input . If a much larger resistance is added, the ECU actually sees this massive increase in resistance and will fire the injectors for the required 5 to 6m/s , so the bike will start from cold - Yay . However just to make things difficult the ECU then does not recognise the natural fall in resistance from the coolant sensor when the engine warms up , so stays at the longer injector values . The only way to get the injectors back to firing the warm duration of 2 to 3m/s is to turn the bike off and restart it .  Hopefully this is clear.

Jim's has made a fix for me, so I can add resistance and I'm now able to start it from cold ,but I plan to get another ECU as a permanent fix .  I think he's made a few youtube videos of the whole process ,which should be out in the near future.   

Mike .

Sounds like some proper detective work. So.. it's the ecu not responding correctly to the temp sensor? The sensor was checked, wasn't it?

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3 hours ago, TLRS said:

Sounds like some proper detective work. So.. it's the ecu not responding correctly to the temp sensor? The sensor was checked, wasn't it?

Yep , all the outputs from the temp sender were measured and were all in spec as per the manual . As the fault can be replicated we are both 99.99% sure it's the ECU . Just me being me , and want to be 100% sure I plan to get a second hand ECU ( as new ones are no longer available and were price at about £3200 ) and get Jim to run the same tests of injector duration V's coolant sender resistance just to be sure . This won't be for a good few months as I'm just about the put the bike away for the winter and need to save a few quid to buy a second hand ECU.

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2 hours ago, hollo said:

Yep , all the outputs from the temp sender were measured and were all in spec as per the manual . As the fault can be replicated we are both 99.99% sure it's the ECU . Just me being me , and want to be 100% sure I plan to get a second hand ECU ( as new ones are no longer available and were price at about £3200 ) and get Jim to run the same tests of injector duration V's coolant sender resistance just to be sure . This won't be for a good few months as I'm just about the put the bike away for the winter and need to save a few quid to buy a second hand ECU.

There’s a guy, russian i think, who opened a tlr ecu. Had to remove a lot of gunk to get to the print. Yet managed to replace a part or resolder it or something.

Long story short, maybe it can be fixed by a grown up?

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6 hours ago, TLRS said:

There’s a guy, russian i think, who opened a tlr ecu. Had to remove a lot of gunk to get to the print. Yet managed to replace a part or resolder it or something.

Long story short, maybe it can be fixed by a grown up?

I think they fill them with silicon 

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15 minutes ago, ssray said:

I think they fill them with silicon 

It’s a resin, most ecu’s have it to help with vibration and contamination, I’ve watched them being repaired and any good repairers will know where to dig into the ecu.

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Yep , they are filled and sealed with something like silicon , so it's not possible to get to any of the workings . I've had a quick look , on tinternet but trying to find someone with experience or had worked on a bike specific ecu which is best part of 30 years old and Honda only made 500 is proving difficult .

I'm open to suggestions if anyone can recommend anyone.

Mike .  

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Theres a chap in Greece who repairs Honda NSR250 ecu's and i know several happy customers here in UK, His name i think from memory is,  Nick Prionas he trades under 2stroke racelab, and use to advertise on fleabay under NSR250 spares. Might be useful, might not.

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9 hours ago, lesviffer 750 said:

Theres a chap in Greece who repairs Honda NSR250 ecu's and i know several happy customers here in UK, His name i think from memory is,  Nick Prionas he trades under 2stroke racelab, and use to advertise on fleabay under NSR250 spares. Might be useful, might not.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275346366702?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=66MdNhkXTo2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=hNc7HZIaSC6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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  • 10 months later...

and update time......

If you've got this far , thanks. So , I managed to get my hands on another ECU , drum roll please........and the fucking thing is still the same - piss sticks and arse biscuits.

I'm really at a loss now . So to re-cap, from stone cold the ECU was getting the correct resistance from the coolant sensor and the other sensors , but the injectors were not firing for long enough for a cold start. So this points to a faulty or non-existent cold start procedure in the ECU . Also as above for the 'fix' , if an in-line resistor is added the ECU and injectors can be fooled into giving the cold engine more fuel , again, it points to a faulty ECU . However, after great expense the new ECU makes no difference. So I'm now stumped and out of ideas.

Ideally I'd like to try and do a swap of giving my ECU to someone with a 45 for them to try it , or me try their known good ECU , just to try and make sense of what's going on , but these bikes are a bit thin on ground. My 'fix' of the in-line resistor does work , buts it's a real balls ache to keep taking the seat off and on when you want to go for a ride ,and it still doesn't really fix the true route cause of the cold starting.

He's a pic of happier times at last years CBT at Donington , where once warm it ran like clockwork.

2JzI6ST.jpg

 

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13 minutes ago, hollo said:

and update time......

If you've got this far , thanks. So , I managed to get my hands on another ECU , drum roll please........and the fucking thing is still the same - piss sticks and arse biscuits.

I'm really at a loss now . So to re-cap, from stone cold the ECU was getting the correct resistance from the coolant sensor and the other sensors , but the injectors were not firing for long enough for a cold start. So this points to a faulty or non-existent cold start procedure in the ECU . Also as above for the 'fix' , if an in-line resistor is added the ECU and injectors can be fooled into giving the cold engine more fuel , again, it points to a faulty ECU . However, after great expense the new ECU makes no difference. So I'm now stumped and out of ideas.

Ideally I'd like to try and do a swap of giving my ECU to someone with a 45 for them to try it , or me try their known good ECU , just to try and make sense of what's going on , but these bikes are a bit thin on ground. My 'fix' of the in-line resistor does work , buts it's a real balls ache to keep taking the seat off and on when you want to go for a ride ,and it still doesn't really fix the true route cause of the cold starting.

He's a pic of happier times at last years CBT at Donington , where once warm it ran like clockwork.

2JzI6ST.jpg

 

Lovely looking bike. Shame it’s broken. 

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