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Wobbly Wheel Help


chocyboy

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Does anyone know what size increase wheel bearings come in?

The rear wheel on my Mille has a tiny bit of play in it and when the wheel was removed it turns out NOT to be the bearing. The reccess that the bearing sits in is slightly larger than the bearing itself. I've got a new bearing the correct size but it just drops staight in with no resistance, just a tiny gap (less tham 0.5mm all round). I don't know if it would be possible to get the hub machined out to accomodate a larger bearing or a spacer around the correct size as it is an OZ type wheel.

Any suggestions from the all knowing massive? or do i have to fork out for a new wheel?

And no, I can't afford a set of BST's as I've been forced to go to Cartyhenna in Febuary.

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Thats been tried and didn't hold it.

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Mmmm, then it's either a larger cage bering or machining a sleeve to house the OE bearing.

Have you looked at online bearing suppliers for sizing?

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I'm off to a local supplier tomorrow but thought I'd see what suggestions came up on here. if only to see what insults I got really. :)

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I'm off to a local supplier tomorrow but thought I'd see what suggestions came up on here. if only to see what insults I got really. :)

This is your best bet, but if they're no help then give these lads a call http://www.leics-bearings.co.uk/

Just phone them with the old bearing infront of you instead of pissing about on the website and explain your issue. They'll tell you what the options are and have managed to get all manner of weird and wonderful bearing sizes for the company I used to work for.

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I'd be checking first as to how the poor fit has occurred - is the bearing undersized or has the bore of the wheel opened up?

^ this in the very much size..

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I'm off to a local supplier tomorrow but thought I'd see what suggestions came up on here. if only to see what insults I got really. :)

Manufacturing defect in the wheel, clearly. It's certainly not gyroscopic forces from the speeds you've been going at.

And you stink too.

You fucking eunuch.

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If you just bought the bike then you might have been had ...

Measure the OD of the bearing and the ID of the wheel (if you can) price it up, it might be cheaper to look for another wheel

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If you just bought the bike then you might have been had ...

Measure the OD of the bearing and the ID of the wheel (if you can) price it up, it might be cheaper to look for another wheel

Believe it or not I've owned it from new and there has always been the tinniest amount of play in the wheel and I mean tiny to the point were I thought it was just me. Anyways, went to do the bearings just because of the age and when I took the circlip out the bearing just dropped out. When the wheel is in the swinging arm the amount of play is Minuit.
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to see what insults I got really. :)

Weird

Not the greatest ever, but it's a start.

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Obviously Evilchicken is far more polite than you.

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what size bearing is it? which side? drive or non? if there is another brg the same id and width but only 1mm on the od then you only need to take 0.5mm out

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A man with experience of the slapdash machining and poor tolerances of the British motorcycle industry (and Landrover) would simply have shimmed it with a sliver of feeler gauge cut with scissors.

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Now then, it's the brake disk side of the wheel that has the play in it and close inspection doesn't show any scoring or obvious signs of uneven wear. When I remove the circlip the bearing comes out freely. without getting a vernier on it there is a gap of approx 0.5 mm between bearing and the body of the wheel with the bearing held tight to one side (I know it's round but you know what I mean). As wildbill's post above, would I be able to shim it? If so what would be the best metal to use? Should I use steel or is there something more suitable?

Feel free to tell me if I'm being stupid here.

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This is not a long term option, but IS a get you out of trouble fix that will last a while on the non drive side.

Liberally pepper the retention face with centre-punch divots and fit the bearing with Loctite Bearing Fit. Shimming is gonna be difficult as you need the bearing to remain central to the pocket.

Only reliable long term solution is to machine the pocket and fit a top hat with the brim on the outside. Probably find that brass would be best as it's heat expansion rate is similar to alloy, but is that bit more durable. Getting a steel top hat to work is much trickier in terms of evaluating the interference tolerances that you'd need. come replacement time the top hat will almost certainly come out with the bearing and you're back to stage one.

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Go on then, now that peeps have said another wheel my distrust in fate means I'll have to go that route.

BTW Loz, stop with the sweet talk. I've told you no spoons.

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Feel free to tell me if I'm being stupid here.

You're being stupid here.

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This is not a long term option, but IS a get you out of trouble fix that will last a while on the non drive side.

Terrible advice - IS will cut your head off. Best to avoid them
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Terrible advice - IS will cut your head off. Best to avoid them

Told you it wasn't a longterm option. Don't mind living dangerously though. :eusa_whistle:

PS, A lol, A lol, A lol.

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