Alex_H Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Hi all, My left hand fork has shit itself, 14b r1 forks. I've rebuilt a few sets of usd forks over the years, but these have presented me with a few troubles. Number one, theres no bolt for the damper rod in the fork bottom, so what kind of cunning tool do i need to get the innards out? Second problem is the oil weight, which is meant to be yamaha m1 0wt, which I can't seem to buy! Any alternatives out there that wont wreck how they perform? Cheers lads and ladies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 std weight oil is about 3.75 ish , put 5w in them both and it'll be fine , if you're just changing the seal you don't need to pull the innard's out , the oil level is 117mm if that's any help , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_H Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Cheers mate, makes sense, will have a crack over the weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomekzxr Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Cartriges are screwed into for bottom. The bottom of cartrigde tube is threaded and red loctited. 20mm sqare tube fits into cartridge top to be unscrewed if Your not going to make special tool for this purpose. If You use just force you will unscrew the top instead of the tube at the bottom. You will have acces to piston and shims so it's ok to do any work on it. Otherwise heat fork bottom to 300 celsius for a longer while to remove the whole tube. I got mine revalved by MCT for 55GBP when i send them just my pistons with oem shims. However they did not make much to it. They recommended motul 5W, but later i used silkolene pro 2.5W. Do not swap cartridge tubes RH to LH-they have hole drilled one on bottom the other on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blow_away Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 YEC suspension setup manual is pretty helpful once you have them rebuilt http://www.yamaha-racingparts.com/model.php?cat=0&sub=0&page=10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boris Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I used 5w oil in mine, had been serviced by ketch before and felt ok but after I changed the oil for motul fork oil I felt a massive improvement. i done it myself in the garage, hardest bit was making something to hold the spring down whilst undoing the top adjuster bit. tried pushing them down one handed whilst trying to get to the nut! doesn't work or im very weak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomekzxr Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 You're supposed to use tools for it not hands. Or at least another person just to push the spring down. You press the tube on top of the spring down. It has two holes to attach spring compressor. Then You slide a plate with slot cut in it(the rod slides in the slot) between the tube and nut. Then the tube rests on the plate with the nut exposed. You hold the nut with wrench and unscrew the fork top. Then remove the plate and spring is free to be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomekzxr Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Type in google images: usd fork spring compressor to get pictures of this operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boris Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 yes I had the tool that goes inbetween the two holes but couldn't do it on my own, I made a compressor machene myself out of a large bit of u shaped metal and drilled two holes and put small bolts through to go in the holes of the spring plastic cup bit then used a bottle jack under the fork to lift it and compress the spring, then like you said a spanner on the top and one on the nut easy as pie then, saved me 100 quid for a fork service anyhow. use it all the time now. ill try get a pic up but don't laugh as its very crude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomekzxr Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 I made a crude one too and I'm happy with it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KBS69 Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Check out Dave moss's web page, You can buy full video on his web page for around £5 gives a full instruction on rebuilding the forks for 09- R1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boris Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 yeh these are really helpful and very detailed, although he uses every tool known to man which some people wouldn't have but if you google the tools you require there are people out there that show you how to make your own for most 'specialist tools' youll require Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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