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Setting Fork Sag On An Sp2


couchcommando

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Apparently my SP2 has nearly 1kg springs as standard, it also has top out springs and I've read a lot about setting the front sag with these but I have no idea how to do it, I have at the moment preload only one turn out from max and I'm using every last mm of fork travel on the brakes, the tywrap I put on the forks is touching the fork bottoms. With 1kg springs I'm sure this shouldn't be happening but I also assume with the top out spring you can't fully preload the normal springs.

I'm confused to say the least, any ideas ?

Just to add the bike handles fine and feels fine on the brakes, it's just using all the travel so shall I just ignore that bit ?

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Apparently my SP2 has nearly 1kg springs as standard, it also has top out springs and I've read a lot about setting the front sag with these but I have no idea how to do it, I have at the moment preload only one turn out from max and I'm using every last mm of fork travel on the brakes, the tywrap I put on the forks is touching the fork bottoms. With 1kg springs I'm sure this shouldn't be happening but I also assume with the top out spring you can't fully preload the normal springs.

I'm confused to say the least, any ideas ?

Just to add the bike handles fine and feels fine on the brakes, it's just using all the travel so shall I just ignore that bit ?

Is the bike raised at the back?

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From memory it's got 1kg springs but they are too short, so all the available preload is taken up getting them to start loading up, and they also have weird top-out springs. I don't know whether Honda were trying something clever that didn't work, or didn't really give a shit because they only cared if the bike worked in racing where they knew the forks would go in a skip....

From memory the solution is longer springs of the same rating. I think some of the aftermarket springs are made like that.

Ktech did mine. The preload still ended wound right in but the ride height was higher afterwards and they didn't bottom out. I then had to pull them through the forks about 10mm to get the geometry back.

By the time I'd finished mine was sitting about an inch higher at the back, and about 10mm higher at the front than standard. Accepted wisdom on an SP2 is that they work better relatively flat rather than pitched on their nose.

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Thanks guys, it handles nice as is so think I'll put up with using all the travel

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Thanks guys, it handles nice as is so think I'll put up with using all the travel

Have you tried increasing the compression damping.

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Have you tried increasing the compression damping.

Yeah a couple of clicks more from standard

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If your static sag is right with the rebound wound right in, you shouldn't have to worry. Top out springs should be all but collapsed even under the weight of the bike, when you get on it they, almost definately, will be.

Trouble is though, run out of travel and you will run out of road.

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To get the proper amount of preload adjustment on these you can take out the stock preload spacer which is between the spring and the fork cap...its a white plastic spacer from memory and replace it with a aluminium spacer of about 15mm longer length.

The stock springs are ok to use.

The topout springs are very long and so keep working deep into the forks stroke and so tend to give excessive rider sag....even with lots of preload....you can pull them out and replace them with a nylon spacer and a few thick O rings to act as a topout rubber...the spacer and O rings combined lengths need to be the same as the fully compressed length of the topout spring.

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Those forks look to be 10mm further through the yokes than i run mine...

Having the forks resprung/valves raised the ride height at the front by about 15mm, so I did it to get it about level again. I also had a WP shock and 190/55 rear tyre which raised the back a bit, so by the end the bike sat higher front and rear (rear about 15mm more than front from memory). It was a while ago now.

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