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Ktm Lc4 Sm Wont Start!


Richy

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Mate has a LC4, it will start no problem of the kickstart ( first kick) but never started very well of the button then it wouldent start of the button at all. After lots of pocking and prodding thinking it was the battery etc. I found out that it woudent spark with the plug in but if the plug was out it sparked ok!! Had a new battery on it plus a jump pack but still the same, checked the earths and lives all the connectors I could find still no joy! any ideas?

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Faulty starter button (clean it) or connections

Faulty starter motor/ and or lead

Faulty battery (load test it)

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Spins over ok of the button, but he has a spare which I`m gona try

jump pack direct to starter motor, still the same

New battery and the jump pack, still the same!!!

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check the main bearings. if youve got float on the mains the ignition trigger can fail when eleccy starting. also check your still getting power to coil whilst hitting the starter.

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It starts first kick (usually) sounds ok when running and wont spark (with the plug in) when you hit the starter button, but dose spark with the out. This is with the plug lead laying on the head with no plug cap.With the plug in there is 1 spark as you hit the button but nothing afterwards!!!!!!!!!

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Im thinking you might have a bad earth somewhere.. if you say that it sparks just one time then nothing.. MAYBE the spark is going to the nearest earth point.So quick checks...

Battery to frame earth

Starter to engine earth

Coil to frame earth

OR it could be the sprag clutch... :eusa_think:

Edit almost forgot.. Faulty brushes in starter motor.. another one.

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I know this isn't a suggestion on how to proceed, but how do you know it won't spark with the plug in, I'm intrigued?

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Unscrew the HT lead from plug cap and put it near the head (well, anything metal),

Checked the earths

Battery pack connected direct to starter motor + and to engine -,

Coil to frame must be ok because it starts first kick most of the time.

there is no nasty noises when using the starter so sprag clutch should be ok

So, it`s got my head in bits,

Starts perfectly when using the kickstart

turns over ok, not brilliantly fast but should start it

used different batterys inc. a new one and a battery jump pack and still turns over the same speed.

when using the button it wont spark with the plug in but perfect spark with plug out

Put plug back in it starts straight away off the kickstart

Its no different if its been warmed up first.

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Probably not related to your problem but just be aware that the plug caps on the LC4 engines should be classed as consumable items.

I think the vibes kill them, at least they did on my 625 when I had it.

I only figured this out when I got the bike running in my pitch black garage, you could see it arcing all over the place to the engine.

It would cause all manner of rough running and problems. Putting a new plug cap on every 1000miles or so always sorted it until the next time.

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Is the gap adjustable between the ignition pickup and the rotor? some of the older Triumphs used to be really fussy about that, if it is not adjustable then as Chance said is there enough end float on the crank to be altering the gap?

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what are your hands doing when you try to start it? this isnt one with an ignition kill on the clutch is it? kick start would be side stand up clutch in little kick little kick big kick and away..... does the cdi think your trying to start it in gear with the side stand down?

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tried side stand up and down ,bypassed side stand switch plus had clutch in and out, just tried a different starter/kill switch ( did the same)

May check out clutch switch next...................Thanks.

OK, Got distracted there.

the bike will run with the stand down (you have to put it up to start it as it gets in the way) after starting with the kick start.

NOT touching anything else, with the plug lead (with no plug cap) touching the head with the plug IN it wont spark ( well apart from one as soon as you push the button)

Take the plug OUT and push the button LOTS of sparks all the time!?!?!?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still the same, after a bit of searching someone claims its a bearing behind the flywheel, a large caged roller bearing looking at the micro fiche (£60 special order!) He`s had 3 others with the same problem.

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It`s the Free Wheel FWD bearing 332008 BLS that goes in the free wheel hub behind the flywheel.

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  • 5 weeks later...

After changing the said bearing the bike now starts of the button now, you live and learn...............

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