marcuszs Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 as above , my bike died at the pb trackday and I killed the battery after spending the morning trying to get it going , dont want to mess the battery up by incroectly charging it . also any ideas on where to start with tracing the fault , its a k4 600 fitted with a power comander and quick shifter , loom looks to have most of the road going connections on it still but the pc looks to of been cut into the loom ( I thought they were ment to be plug and play?) did the first session fine on the slow down lap the bike was a little hessitant a couple of times, heading down the pit lane it didnt want to rev and then it decided to stop and refused to start after , gave it a strip down , checked obvious things like connections , connector blocks , switch gear , pulled the plugs out which had a good spark , had plenty of fuel coming from the fuel pipe to the throttle bodys ect . a few people I spoke to said its likely to be the cam or crank sensors , is there anyway of testing these or do I just order myself a couple of new ones and hope that sorts it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbill Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Get the battery onto a charger ASAP. The longer it remains in a discharged state the more damage is done chemically resulting in inability to retain capacity. As long as the charger has a low amperage output ,you cannot go wrong. As to purchasing electrical components willy nilly ; this is a very expensive method of electrical fault diagnosis. ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 would my optimate be ok on the lithium battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansp1 Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Only if its the one for charging Lithium batteries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 christ £109! best get digging down the back if the sofa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbill Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Hold on; surely if the battery is being charged from the bike when running normally i.e 12.80v + to 14 ish v. then a maintenance charger will suffice. Thanks for informing of it being a Litho battery in post 1 by the way. : they do not degrade chemically when discharged as a lead/acid/gel type does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Hold on; surely if the battery is being charged from the bike when running normally i.e 12.80v + to 14 ish v. then a maintenance charger will suffice. Thanks for informing of it being a Litho battery in post 1 by the way. : they do not degrade chemically when discharged as a lead/acid/gel type does. well that was my thought , the charging system on the bike is normal so why would a normal optimate not do the job . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbill Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 I have just flicked through a few ads/info on litho replacement about batteries; All manufacturers state that no mods to the vehicle charging system are required andthat standard or maintenance charging devices are suitable to recharge. In addition increasingcharging amperage is tolerated. "Lithium -ion batteries may be recharged using standard motorcycle battery chargers." (There was more but yet again the limitations of this site has made complicated the fooking simple action of copy/paste) more now added.lithium-ion batteries can be recharged using standard motorcycle battery chargers. The normal charging current usually corresponds to the battery capacity (e.g. 2.8 Ah capacity = 2.8 A charging current). On a quick charge, however, Li-ion batteries can be charged on a current that is ten times the battery capacity (e.g. 2.8 Ah capacity = 28 A charging current). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansp1 Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 http://1000rr.co.uk/mods-upgrades-accessories-products/3335.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 cheers for the link , although thats just as confusing , some say buy a new charger some say dont Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilchicken0 Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Does the bike start now ? A normal bettery will loose charge if it's duff, or if it isn't being charged by the alternator. If the battery is ok and just down on power you obviously charge it or get the bike started and the alternator will recharge it. If the alternator isn't charging then it isn' really the battery, it can be the reg rec which can case the battery ot over or under charge. So put a volt meter across the battery termials and see if it's depleated, if you can get another battery to start and run the bike then see how much the new battery is getting. Rev the engine a little the volts shouldn't go higher than 14v, if they spike with the revs then the reg rec is probably toast, (it's not really toast but might be a hot). If all that seems normal then you might move onto the sensors but for that I think there should be a diagnostic on the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbill Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 I took it, that the battery was flattened by the starter after keep trying to start repeatedly when the bike chucked it for some other reason . Was that the wrong assumption ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 my understanding of Lithium batteries is limited but IIRC they don't like being run totally flat, and that doing so can irrevocably damage them if you're using them to start the bike, they should be used in short bursts, ie a few seconds, and then leave it a few seconds before trying again. Holding it on the starter for long periods trying to start the engine is not good for them. you can use a normal trickle charger (eg regular optimate, not specifically a lithium one) but just charge it and then disconnect it, don't leave it plugged it for long periods. that could all be bollocks, but I've got a 'racing batteries' Lithium iron phopshate one, bought from evilchicken of this Parish a few years ago, and never had any problems with it. there's some quite useful info on their website http://www.racingbatteries.co.uk/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick448 Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 my understanding of Lithium batteries is limited but IIRC they don't like being run totally flat, and that doing so can irrevocably damage them if you're using them to start the bike, they should be used in short bursts, ie a few seconds, and then leave it a few seconds before trying again. Holding it on the starter for long periods trying to start the engine is not good for them. you can use a normal trickle charger (eg regular optimate, not specifically a lithium one) but just charge it and then disconnect it, don't leave it plugged it for long periods. that could all be bollocks, but I've got a 'racing batteries' Lithium iron phopshate one, bought from evilchicken of this Parish a few years ago, and never had any problems with it. there's some quite useful info on their website http://www.racingbatteries.co.uk/ this was my experience of them. Mine went flat and would never charge properly again. My new one gas been fine. I use a lithium optimate very so often but not connected all the time and removed the battery over winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisexup Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 they don't like too much voltage either, i killed one in very short order (about 2 miles) when my reg/rec was letting up to 17v through to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 I took it, that the battery was flattened by the starter after keep trying to start repeatedly when the bike chucked it for some other reason . Was that the wrong assumption ? This is how I flattened the battery , before I spent ages fiddling and trying to start it it was fine , it also has a built in condition indicator and at the time of the bike packing IP it was fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbill Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 I thought that; it was more an observation on Evilchicken0's post. Have you found the reason for the bike not running ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 No if I'm honest I've not had to try and diagnose an electrical fault before so I don't really know where to start . Part of me wants to just pay some one but I'm not going to learn that way . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbill Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Well first thing is going to be checking a few things over but not by using the litho battery. One thing that has been confirmed is that those types of battery are NOT suitable for fault diagnosis. Have you had a hunt about on a dedicated GSXR forum ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Not a member on any gsxr forums but that's a good shout , having a look around and it would be cheeper for me to replace the battery with one the same rather than buy the charger . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildbill Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Once it is up and running; just put the litho back on it, or charge it back up on a bike you can bump start. From a little more digging; its leaving them on a maintenance/trickle charger that fooks them, once the charger has got them up to voltage; just take it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 How do you know it's electrical?, how did you check the fuel output Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 I bought a cheapo battery for my k7 600 the other day for £18 off ebay posted, just a normal style one. Buy the cheapest you can, charge it on your optimate overnight, then go fault finding the next day, on a battery you know if good. if it turns out that your nice light one is OK, then great, you've only wasted £18, but saved a load of fucking about wondering if it's the battery supplying enough current etc. Find the fault on your bike, not spend time wondering if it's something that's easy & cheap to swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Or pay a suzuki dealer half hour to an hour labour for them to stick it on their sds,you can still fix it yourself to save money and there's a chance you may not waste a few weeks or a few quid changing the wrong things, but, as I said earlier, is it electrical, sounded a bit like fuel pump low on pressure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted June 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 My only reason for saying it's electric is the fact that I could here the fuel pump making its noises and when I took the pipework of a there was a decent supply of fuel , also there we no fault codes showing on the dash . I hadn't thought about a local Suzuki dealer as my local one went under a little while ago . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 you can buy a dealer mode switch on ebay, from a guy in greece http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251023356143&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en in case you think it's dodgy it's not, I bought a PAIR bypass for the k6 from him a while back and it's dob on. no issues at all, arrived a couple of days after I ordered it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcuszs Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 so with one of those I will be able to bring up thefault codes the bike is showing on the dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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