Slingy Refusing To Start....the Bastard!

[ianl1201]

Much to my shame, after several thousand miles in a container and a couple of years in storage, it's been 3 1/2 years since my 1988 Slingshot last ran. I've finally had some time on it over the past couple of weeks and have fitted the rebuilt carbs (courtesy of budgetboy) set back to standard, new coils, new fuel lines, new battery and new air filter. Got it all back together and turned it over yesterday to make sure there was oil pressure - there was!

Today it got a splash of fresh petrol and I expectantly reached for the starter button with a sense of anticipation and nervousness. It turns over ok...tried to fire up a few times but then that was it. Bastard!

There's a spark at the plugs and fuel has made it to the float bowls (bit of leakage so I suspect the floats may be a bit sticky after sitting around for so long) but the bugger won't run.

What else can I check? Any help appreciated before I reach for the matches!!

[Mahatma]

Sure the sparkplug wires go to the right cylinders?Check sparkplugs if they are "wet"-that fuel has made it to the cylinder.Try something called starter gas,it may just be that it needs some help to push it into action.

[lorenzo]

I'd do 2 things: firstly, I'd get a can of easy start, bosh some into the air box, or better still, into the carbs, then turn it over. It doesn't need you to squirt it as it runs, it'll run just on the fumes for about 5 seconds. This'll tell you if it's a fuel thing. Secondly, if you don't ascertain that it's just fuelling, I'd pull a plug out and stick it next to the engine and turn it over, see what if you get a spark, and if so, is it blue or a pissy little orange one. No spark means something electrical (duh...), I'd check things like sidestand cutout, clutch cut out if it has one, or even the kill switch.

[hylar1000]

if you think it could be the floats then they could be stuck shut so no fuel, or they could be stuck open so it is flooded.

[stuntmonkee]

Fitted new plugs too???

[VanWinkle]

trapped a fuel/vac/breather line?

[gurninman]

Check all the earths.had the same problem with a slingy a few years ago , and cleaning up the earths sorted it

[ianl1201]

Fitted new plugs too???

I didn't - cleaned up the present ones cos they were pretty new when I laid it up. Might be best to chuck in some new ones. They are sparking when I removed one a checked.

trapped a fuel/vac/breather line?

Going to check this - I'm not happy with the routing of one of the pipes

Check all the earths.had the same problem with a slingy a few years ago , and cleaning up the earths sorted it

Cheers gurninman - hadn't even thought about this. I'll take a look. It'll be next week now as we're away this weekend. Ta for the advice though chaps!

[BudgetBoy]

The best thing i was ever told when i was learning (some years ago ) was this. "An engine needs 4 things to run,and if you take one of those away it wont." These are:-

Suck:- Air/fuel

Squeeze :- Compression

Bang :- Ignition

Blow :- Exhaust

SUCK:-

So. Id take off the air box to aid better flow & squirt a bit of carb cleaner or starter fluid in the carb openings.DO NOT touch the throttle, use the choke only.""The fuel is getting to the carbs as you stated its in the bowls.So the needles are open."" If you have had them sat since i done them they "could" be stuck open causing the engine to flood. A swift tap with a rubber mallet normally works.

If not, take bowls of and look to see if the floats are moving up and down and that the needle is shutting/opening.If you get stuck PM me.

SQUEEZE:-

Skip for now. Basically an engine needs 100psi min to run but on "Some" models and engines this is less.A spec sheet would tell you stats.A compression test will also tell you the state of the engine, but after 3.5 years of not running did you put a teaspoon of oil in the bores and turn over by hand first or just try and fire it up with no prep? Sometimes surface rust can build up on the bore lining or the rings can get stuck and you lose compression.Im not saying this is the case but its a possibility. I always put oil in and leave over night "Then" turn over by hand slowly the next day, going back and forth.Then just do a comp test for piece of mind to see state of engine health.If it was low id run a leakdown test to pinpoint where the problem lies.

BANG:-

Make sure battery is FULLY charged, don't just "think" its ok..just coz its new lol

You say you have good spark so we can move on.Any override would cancel your spark out.(side stand,kill switch etc)

* new plugs would help a bit mate

BLOW:-

Skip this for now as well.

Rat or mice nest in the exhaust restricting flow.valves not seating properly. Exhaust full of fuel..

So to recap:-

Air box off

Squirt starter fluid in carb mouths

No throttle, just choke so you dont flood it, also you can turn fuel OFF.Main point here is to get it to fire.Its will run as loz said for a few seconds,if it does repeat with fuel ON.

Fully charged battery

Press that starter. and count 5 seconds, then add another dab of starter fluid and repeat. If still no start after 2-3 goes, you need to look elsewhere.

If i have missed anything im sure others will point it out, but thats the basics.

I have just done a bike this week that would not start (2000 ZXR400 L9).Been sat for just over a year outside under tarp. People were/had been telling the customer its the carbs,plugs,kill switch etc. So first thing i done was a test on the compression and its was like this:-

Number 1 60psi (After 140 psi)

Number 2 40 psi (After 150 psi)

Number 3 50 psi (After 135 psi)

Number 4 40 psi (After 145 psi)

* still has to all bed in yet to get better figures

The rings were all stuck and rusted due to being sat with moisture in the bores.Saved me time in mucking about as well. New rings and a quick hone and the thing fired up . So as i say step by step to find the problem.

[Guest]

It's fucked, I'll give you £50 for it...........cutting my own throat etc.

[Evilchicken0]

Put new plugs in it (don't use irridium) then do what Loz said (although I use carb cleaner). Plugs can spark but then break down under pressure and new ones are always good for starting.

You may also consider jump leads from another bike / battery / car battery so you can hold the starter on for longer without depleating the battery.

[ianl1201]

Snippety snip

Ta for taking the time to put all that down budgetboy. I put a spot of oil down the bores and turned it over to make sure oil pressure was there before putting the plugs back in and attempting to start. Going to get new plugs and try your method then report back

It's fucked, I'll give you £50 for it...........cutting my own throat etc.

Behave Barry! You've got enough bikes already. (You may have PM by the end of next week depending how following the tips above goes!!)

Thanks again everyone. I'll let you know how I get on

[ianl1201]

IT LIVES!!!!

Finally got back to the slingy today and followed the PB massives' instructions - air filter out, new plugs fitted and a healthy squirt of carb cleaner into to airbox. Pressed the button and it fired up for a few seconds, which at that point is the most it had run since Oct 2010! Sat the tank back on the frame and one of the fuel pipes did look kinked so I stuck the old one back on, connected everything up and we had lift off! Fired up straight away and settled into a nice smooth tickover. Let it warm up for a few minutes and then a few blips of the throttle - it seems much crisper and smoother since the carb rebuild. I am now a happy chap! Thanks are due to budget boy for the carb work.

Sod's law I'm working in Poland for the next fortnight but MOT will be booked on my return.