chancho196 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Hey folks, having done the job a couple of times now, I'm determined to get these forks leak-free, and working correctly. I've bought the proper seal driver, will make sure every single blemish in the stanchion is smoothed out, and will cross-hatch the tube with a scourer to help the seals bed in. But... I want to use decent seals. Suzuki dealers round here sell aftermarket seals only (in stock at least). Can anyone give an opinion on using the All Balls fork and dust seal kits? Or point me in the direction of a decent kit/supplier? Suspension Smith? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Just order the OEM seals from Suzuki via a dealer, I only ever use OEM seals and bushes now after wasting time and money having to do the job twice having used aftermarket the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mahatma Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Use red rubber grease along with decent seals.That'll work!Also be sure you assemble all the pieces in the correct allignment.I did not do that,and had leakage like a river down my forks because of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Are you sure its the seals and not the stanchions??? You said "" will make sure every single blemish in the stanchion is smoothed out, and will cross-hatch the tube with a scourer to help the seals bed in"" If the stanchions have pits in them (swept area) and they are not 100% smooth it will nick the seals away over time and then they will leak. New stanchions or regrind/rechrome is the way to go..Too much oil in the leg will also blow the seal.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Yes, there are slight chips in them both, but it's never the same fork that leaks after fitting. This is a last ditch effort using the proper seal driver (instead of fitting the seals and then inserting the tubes), and i just want opinions on decent aftermarket kits available. If not, I will try and get the NOK's that the factories used. In a perfect world I would replace the stanchions, but that's mega bucks and it ain't happening. Oil level is set at the 100mm factory spec. I must admit, I'm not a huge fan of the DLC coating as it doesn't seem to offer any advantage over chrome (regarding stiction at least). There is slight play in the bushes too, but evidently they're not available either. Kayaba's, I shit 'em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 The bushes will surely be available for the K6? I can get new bushes for my 92 RGV from Suzuki! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 The bushes will surely be available for the K6? I can get new bushes for my 92 RGV from Suzuki! You'd think so. When I bought the springs from Traxxion Dynamics, they said no too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simbo Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 ive just done mine and BBM forks seals. both k5s. mad had to buy another stantion as the one that leaked had a tiny chip. it was oil stoned down to nothing. it could not be seen or felt .but it still leaked. replaced that and now no probs. we used oe seals. just order them from the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted April 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Cheers Simbo, I've never known forks as bad, on or off-road. How much did you pay for a stanchion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simbo Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 100000,00 they might as well be. I think new there about £500 each. mad bought his second hand as a complete fork.but only used the stantion. I think he bought it from ebay us. alot cheaper than uk.i cant remember how much though.sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 I can't believe that there aren't new stanchions and bushes out there. Have you tried ABE, if there's a market, which given that we're talking about a bike that's nearly a decade old there's bound to be, I'm guessing that they'd snatch your arm off to develop an aftermarket solution. http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simbo Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 the stantions are impossible to get out of the fork lower without damage to both, therefore no one will supply then.has to be bought as a complete lower,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 So a consumable part then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 I don't actually believe that either, probably cost a lot of U/S components to discover how to do it, but If it's been assembled, it will come apart. Talk to ABE I don't believe in built in obsolescence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Same, should have used a chin scratching smiley in my post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 I've heard (albeit on forums) that if you were unfortunate enough to have a loose stanchion where it is fitted in the lower casting, you could dunk it in boiling water, unscrew the tube, clean it up and refit with Loctite. Sounds plausible if the threads haven't already been worn out. Just found the KYB website and Apico are the British dealers for them. Think I've found the genuine bushes! Part number KYB110044300602. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 What have Maxton or K-Tech to say on the subject? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 the stantions are impossible to get out of the fork lower without damage to both, therefore no one will supply then.has to be bought as a complete lower,, Umm no.. Look on the lower and you should see a grub screw. This comes out and the leg is twisted out (with heat).These were some GSXR ones i did that had new Tin coating.. Yours should be DLC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 What have Maxton or K-Tech to say on the subject? Just checking the K-Tech site now. Will email them, thanks Barry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Umm no.. Look on the lower and you should see a grub screw. This comes out and the leg is twisted out (with heat).These were some GSXR ones i did that had new Tin coating.. Yours should be DLC. How much were they BudgetBoy? Prefer them in gold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 How much were they BudgetBoy? Prefer them in gold. £150 ish. But with this process the leg must not have any dents or nicks in them. If i were you id look at getting another set of legs as it would work out cheaper for you. Then sell yours as parts. Your stanchions by the sounds of it need a strip,regrind,rechrome & recoat which is silly money.. A new leg will cost £400 ish if you are lucky. The bushes i get from ktech and these are what you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2moto Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 As BudgetBoy says, these are quite straightforward to take to bits. Once you have the forks apart, just unscrew the grub screw, apply heat to fork bottom to soften the threadlock glue and twist. They'll come apart, no bother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadmad Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 I was told that the grub screw is often done so tightly that it's ruined the thread on the stanchion, therefore about 50% of the time disassembling the lower will knacker the stanchion. A new fork lower is £500. I've recently noticed that Wemoto have started doing an after market K5/6 stanchion for a few hundred. If you decide to get a second fork/pair of forks ebay USA is your friend, way cheaper than UK forks even with import duty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Careful removal should see the grub screw out ok, heat and a few taps to loosen it off, nice slow turning movement with a good quality Allen key, if you use releasing fluid burn it out of the socket of the screw as it lubricates and increases the chances of the Allen key turning in the socket. If you've got an impact driver can you get the correct size Allen bit for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simbo Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GSXR-1000-K5-K6-FRONT-FORKS-STREETFIGHTER-CHOPPER-CUSTOM-HARDUP-/271470707475 due just seen this on the facebook page Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 An update folks. A few rides in and forks are absolutely bone dry, no hint of oil smears at all. Write up here: http://goo.gl/jPFc32 Now what's the recommended pressures for a track day on Dunlop Q3's? Taking it to Queensland Raceway this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suspensionsmith Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Sorry Mate I have only just seen this now....good to hear its fixed. I find one issue with reoccurring leaks is with how the seal is applied onto the stanchion.....I use those plastic air filled packaging bubbles/sausages that stuff comes with sometimes....its reaaly thin but tough plastic and I cut each end off them to form a tube....I apply this to the end of the stanchion then ease the seal on over the plastic and stanchion with some fork oil for lube...the plastic protects the seal lip from the sometimes sharp edges of the stanchion and also the bleed holes in the stanchion as you slip the seal down....then hold the plastic in place and slip the seal off the plastic.....always inspect the seal lip to make sure it hasnt folded back on itself which is another cause of leaks....done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Thanks SS, a few good rides in and the stanchions are dry as a chip. We live and learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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