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Stuttering Tlr


markw

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If nothing changes when one is removed, then it proves it's actually only idling on one cylinder, not two like you think.

It's hard to tell this by exhaust pipe heat as the bike won't idle from cold startup, so removing one cap at a time can give you an idea but try not to run the bike any longer than necessary as it's not healthy to drag a dead pot along.

If it's running on one all the time, then you need to do some wiring tests to the offending cylinder's coil, if that checks out, replace cap, lead, coil in that order.

If it is indeed idling on two, but cuts out under load, I'd still suspect cap, lead and coil in that order as all can break down under load. Then it's a bit more complex but we'll get to that if needed.

This is all assuming the plugs are brand new, very recently. Also don't assume that a new plug is guarranteed to be fine. I have had new ones out of the box which cause problems. Granted I change a hell of a lot of plugs.

Oh, it's Mark by the way ;) Stupid username, sorry.

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thanks Mark , great name and great advice, i'll have a look this weekend and report back

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so finally managed to get some time to take bike apart, started it up, removed cap and bike kept running..... when i looked at the plug it was covered in petrol which would indicate its not firing..?

the connectors to the coils are a little dirty but nothing to worry about

with the tank off i might as well get a new fuel filter

the coil on the right hand looks like its been off as its got tippex on it..?

so i might as well get new leads and caps and see if that gets me back to where i need to be

i'll get my mate at his garage to check the coils

thanks

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Tippex = 2nd hand parts. Used for marking what they are ect..so i think you may have found your problem (wet plug,coil no sparky). Who knows how long that 2nd hand part was on the original bike.. Get new and you will be sorted. :icon_salut:

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sorry budget, the coil with the tippex is the front one, and the one i think is ok, so looking like the other ' older ' one..? with the wet plug

cheers

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sorry budget, the coil with the tippex is the front one, and the one i think is ok, so looking like the other ' older ' one..? with the wet plug

cheers

oh, so thats been replaced then..

Im sure its the coil breaking down.. Have you tried swapping the coils over? if the problem moves (wet plug) you have found the issue. Does sound like a coil now though.

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i was trying to get away from dismantling the complete bike, but yes could swop them over

opinion is to fit some sv1000 coils , so 'll get a pair this week

do you sell them..?

cheers for all the advice

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i was trying to get away from dismantling the complete bike, but yes could swop them over

opinion is to fit some sv1000 coils , so 'll get a pair this week

do you sell them..?

cheers for all the advice

No mate i dont sell them sorry. Sv coil are good.. get it done :icon_salut:

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cool cool will do

thought if you did sell them it was only fair after you fixed it for me..!!!

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cool cool will do

thought if you did sell them it was only fair after you fixed it for me..!!!

Not taking all the credit mate as Mark put more into this that i have.. he might be able to get them for you mate.. send him a pm or ring him (M&M motorcycles).

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so i took the coils to the shop to make sure they were a match, helpful mechanic tests coils and leads and says there is nothing wrong with them...................

he says it may be an injector or shims tightening up as bike hasnt been used for a while

i am losing patience

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i have found the dealer mode and its saying fault 21 & 23..

but the air box isnt on so i presume that would bring some faults up..

any help appreciated

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i have found the dealer mode and its saying fault 21 & 23..

but the air box isnt on so i presume that would bring some faults up..

any help appreciated

21 is intake air temp sensor. (low/high or just malfunction)

23 is tip over sensor or circuit malfunction

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thanks Budget, will this affect the running of the bike... ie my problem....?

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Well id want to get them sorted.Thats why the dealer more is there mate.

Sort C23 first.

""The sensor voltage is less than the following for more than 8 sec. after ignition switch turns ON. (0.25 V < or = sensor voltage < 4.85 V) Without the above value, c23 is indicated.""

Or

"TO sensor, wiring/coupler connection."

Do you have a manual.. like say haynes or clymer?

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Ok, id be using that if i were you to check the the wiring diagram. Check all the relevant the connectors..

Im gathering you dont have a multimeter..

If you take an hour or two to read the manual ,, iirc there is a problem part in haynes at the back? use that as a guide..

This will also give you a better understanding of your bike..

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thanks budget, i do have a multimeter but to be honest as you may well have gathered , electrics arent my strong point

thanks for all your advice, it is appreciated

Mark

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so i took the coils to the shop to make sure they were a match, helpful mechanic tests coils and leads and says there is nothing wrong with them...................

he says it may be an injector or shims tightening up as bike hasnt been used for a while

i am losing patience

BTW,, did or have you actually fitted the other coils you were going to get? testing them off the bike wont always work.(not under load,and not hot) So for peace of mind id try the NEW coil as well. You can always sell it if its ok.

But to be honest you need to start with what Mark said 1st..

Coils,leads,new plugs, fuel filter.

And sort the fault codes then see where you are at... Anything else and you are guessing. (IMO)

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ive been guessing all the way through .....!!!

no didnt fit them, good point though, i'll get them tomorrow

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Fit them the other way round and see if the faulty cylinder follows the coil.

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so i think ive sorted it, with the help of all you helpful people...!!

fault codes were indicating sensors not plugged in, so they are ok

i cleaned all the connectors, put some redex in and fresh fuel in and it now seems ok

i checked the plugs again and both are ok, no smell of petrol now, maybe in was just a dodgy connector..? or just needed running a bit more after being sat still for ages

im gonna give it a proper run tomorrow

thanks again guys..!!! ( now onto the handling )

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so went out today and stuttering has started again, but bike cut out as well, the kind man at the rac said the starter relay has been taped up and bodged , so need to sort that but will that affect the running of the bike...?

help appreciated again

cheers

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No, the starter relay won't make any difference once it's running, unless it's something especially odd and unpredictable.

So, have you swapped the coils round since you've had them off, and does the cylinder that cuts out follow the coil? Have you sorted fault 23, this'd cause the problem if it's making an intermittent connection perhaps.

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ok Lorenzo, ive swapped the coils round and i took the plugs out and both were ok, no unburnt fuel, i cleaned all the connectors and took it out and it went beautifully, or like it should..!!

then it conked out , rac man came and then i got it home.....so i just presumed it was linked to that

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OK so if your coils are swapped and the faulty cylinder hasn't followed the coil it might be worth having a look to see if error is still there. Also, is the TPS sensor easy to adjust on these? Sort the simple things out that it could be.

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sorry forgot to say, no fault codes coming up and the ones which came up last week have gone when all was connectors properly, TPS is worth looking at

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On my blackbird a faulty starter solenoid caused it to run rough and not charge properly. I'd sort that out as well as it could well be doing the same to yours.

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cheers Rick, i have a feeling in my water it will fix it , as through all my searching i havent found anything much , especially if it is an intermittent fault

when it was running right earlier, its a great bike to ride, 130bhp ...lush

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