markw Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 so took the tlr out for the first time this year and it seems to be running on one cylinder i'll take plugs out ,, gap and clean, there is new fuel in there, filter is clean what else can i check.... help appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Fuel filter in the tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 hi marc - yes possibly as its been stood for a while...... can i take off without empyting the tank..? still sounds like thunder even running on one..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfreddybikes Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Stick some headphones on it in a kings speech sort of thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja.busa Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 The coils can be problematic, but check the ht leads too especially where the plug cap screws in, the copper core of the wire festers and corrodes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 If its anything like my recently departed SRAD, my misfiring appeared to be down to a dying battery. My Reg/rec outputs were spot-on, the charging was spot-on, the battery only had 7 volts in it when left disconneced overnight. I bought a cheapy battery, 2 days later SOLD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 being a dim wit - how do i test the regulator..? i'll go check ht leads are a known fault so i'll go check...!!!! cheeeers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 heres your settings:-(cheap multimeters on evilbay for £10 i think.) coil - primary 3-5 ohms 2nd ary 20000-28000 ohms pick up coil resistance 184-276 ohms Alternator output 13.5-15 volts @ 5000rpm (multimeter over earth and live,rev to 5k, if reg/reg knackered it will be out of spec) Battery FTX12-BS 12/10 Volts/Ah If you have a known GOOD battery you can try then i suggest doing that.batteries break down as they get older and after 3-5 years they tend to be shitty in my experience. Without a load tester you are guessing on the battery front. Does the bike idle ok? When "Underload" in gear does the problem arise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 12,82 ignition off 13.3 under load with lights and choke on at 5k the bike idles ok , i have changed the plugs, one had a white tip with black edges and the other tip was nearly all gone. hopefully the photo works http://www.flickr.com/photos/111165124@N04/12856368833/ i thought id report back before i try and get to the coils cheers for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 which one of you brainy bastards is gonna help me out....................................... i'll post a pair of tits for the winner....!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 12,82 ignition off 13.3 under load with lights and choke on at 5k And then the day after, without being on charge, what's it showing? Just to clarify, by 'under load' I don't think budgetboy is meaning 'with it running but lights on', he's meaning when the engine's under load, perhaps half revs with a wide open throttle for example. Also, the cutting out onto 1, when's it doing it, where in the rev range and at what throttle opening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 You have 2 DIFFERENT plugs in the bike so that wont help matters. (iridium and a Normal tip) Change these to both the same and see if the issue goes away. Alt looks fine Loz is right, underload with light on.. that would show up weak battery/poor charging (possibly) What plugs have you used and are they both the same? Next would be electrical.. Coils,leads,caps and the connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 cheers guys - it seems to be running on 1 cylinder the minute i pull off the plugs are both the same and the problem persists being an electrical dim wit how do i check the coils i'll check the battery in a minute as its not been charged and not run since saturday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 being an electrical dim wit how do i check the coils You see which exhaust is getting hot to suss which 1 it's running on, then swap the coils and see if it follows the coil or stays on that pot. To suss out which pot is hot, gob on a finger, a good bit, then quickly dab the exhaust, it should fizzle off instantly more or less. Don't try to cut out the middle man and simply lick the exhaust, you'll burn your nose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Sounds like a coil breaking down under load or crap in the fuel filter as our esteemed Tech has mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Coils, leads and caps on these are quite a weak point and although you can test resistances per the manual, that rarely shows up a problem if it's load based. Loz's suggestion of swapping them is good, although the front coil is a bit of a bugger to get to on these. How many miles has the bike got on it out of interest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kja.busa Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 I would be having a look on evilbay and getting a good pair of SV1000 coils, checking the leads and plugcaps then using them instead. The TL ones are probably past their best, ebay.com is cheaper even with postage, and the SV ones are considered to be an upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Coils, leads and caps on these are quite a weak point and although you can test resistances per the manual, that rarely shows up a problem if it's load based. Loz's suggestion of swapping them is good, although the front coil is a bit of a bugger to get to on these. How many miles has the bike got on it out of interest? 25k Marc - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Igntion-Coil-fits-Suzuki-SV-1000-S2-K5-BX6121-2005-/151122026392?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item232f931f98 presume these will do the job...? Thanks guys for all the replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansp1 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Igntion-Coil-fits-Suzuki-SV-1000-S2-K5-BX6121-2005-/151122026392?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item232f931f98 I would avoid cheap pattern coils like the plague Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 At that mileage I'd be putting a new fuel filter in it as a matter of course anyway. Then new plugs, caps and HT leads presuming the coils at least static check okay. Then it's wiring checks and after that, mechanical. Do you have a Power Commander on the bike? If so, disconnect that to rule it out for the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbrell Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Most likely be one of the things listed above, but I'll throw my hat in the ring too. Disconnect the power commander, like has just been said, and also check the connectors to the ignition box (or ECU if it's all done by the ECU). My SP1 was intermittently only firing on one when I bought it, then it got worse till it was only on one permanently. Long story short, wriggled the connectors for the ignition box and gave it a good squeeze and it would run on 2. Duff ignition box. Luckily I found that fairly quickly, but I was clutching at straws by that point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredator Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 I agree with trying it without a power commander (if it has one) ... two of them broke down on my TLR and it did run on only one cylinder with a faulty PC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 thanks guys, im gonna have another look tomorrow but will start with trimming the ht leads and checking all the connectors, the access is shite, no room whatso ever ill report back sounds odd but dont think it has a pc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 guys, right both ht leads trimmed and no visable corrosion at all, connectors cleaned and redex in tank no different, anyone got any bright ideas the other thing is it handles like the back aint connected to the front..! i hope i havent bought a lemon..... aaaaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Again, please try new plugs in it as TL's foul them quite easily (that can be helped, but that's another story...) and just trimming the leads will not affect that. Have you checked for a spark on both pots? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 there is 2 new plugs in there Marc, i will look at the spark with the plugs out but surely if it idles ok then that wont highlight anything its doing my head in as my k2 didnt miss a beat in 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Gotchya. I either missed the bit about it having new plugs, or you hadn't posted that. I've been to sleep since last being on here. Are you 100% sure it's actually idling on two though as TL's can sound 'okay' at idle on one cylinder believe it or not if you're not used to hearing them. Take one cap off at a time and see if there's a difference in idle as a crude check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 yeah ok will do , how is the best way to get to the coils...? what else can it be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 You only have to pull the plugs caps out of the heads one by one and isolate them, then see if there's a difference at idle. My bet is one of them will make little to no difference. Getting to the actual coils is a bit of a pain on TLR's. Tank and airbox off them lots of fiddling and small, sweary movements to undo them from their mounts. Do the cap thing first then report back. It could be lots of things, diagnosing something over the interwebz/telphone is an absolute minefield because no offence meant, your description of a fault could be wildy misleading. If the bike was in front of me for example, it could be very obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 thanks marc, no offense taken... best you get in the car and come to sunny devon then....!! i'll try the plug thing , so if nothing changes when removed what will it be....?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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