2Smoke Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 I have a Fazer 600 head on the bench, where one of the inner plugs has snapped. I've had a number 5 extractor on it, but am loathed to put too much pressure on, incase the extractor snaps too. I've had this happen in the past, and it's involved a trip to somewhere with a spark eroder. I'd soaked it in some penetrating oil overnight, but that has done nothing to help it release. I've tried a bit of heat too. Any other suggestions before I begin drilling and have to put an insert in the hole? Cheers Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Smoke Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Can you weld a big bolt to it? The heat from the welder generally does some kind of black mans magic on said obstruction - this coupled with the impact gun is a potential win Possible, but very tricky! The top is down a bit of a tunnel so access will be difficult! I could do it from the other side, but there is little meat to weld to. Good idea though, I could possibly stick say an M6 bolt down through the hole in the plug and weld from the other side.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egg on Leggs Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 How about knocking the centre out and threading the inside of the plug from the combustion chamber side, a bolt screwed in should apply an undoing twist to the remains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gusset Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Can anyone recommend a stud extractor that works? (I've never got on with them, they always break like in the OP...) Is it worth spending a shitload on a decent set? (cheaper than 4 hours' faffing about TBH!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanerdog1x1 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 stud extractors are shit generally, but the 'snap on' ones are the best. while the head is on the bench, have you tried giving the spark plug a whack with a drift and a lump hammer, from the combustion chamber side, to break the seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 The spline type extractors are the best if that's any help. Tapered extractors are generally useless because they put too much pressure on the inside of the stud you're trying to extract, and actually make it tighter. Soak it, warm it and go easy. I've removed several spark plugs with Allen sockets or Torx sockets hammered in before now (once the porcelain is taken out). They don't put too much pressure on the inside of the plug and if you get a good fit, an air gun will "sometimes" zip them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Smoke Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 How about knocking the centre out and threading the inside of the plug from the combustion chamber side, a bolt screwed in should apply an undoing twist to the remains. The centre is already out, but the bolt/nut combo will be worth a try for sure thanks! Can anyone recommend a stud extractor that works? (I've never got on with them, they always break like in the OP...) Is it worth spending a shitload on a decent set? (cheaper than 4 hours' faffing about TBH!) I've got a few snap-on ones, but have never had much joy with them. stud extractors are shit generally, but the 'snap on' ones are the best. while the head is on the bench, have you tried giving the spark plug a whack with a drift and a lump hammer, from the combustion chamber side, to break the seal? Yeah tried giving it a whack, the plug is a little CR9E so not much meat on the bugger! The spline type extractors are the best if that's any help. Tapered extractors are generally useless because they put too much pressure on the inside of the stud you're trying to extract, and actually make it tighter. Soak it, warm it and go easy. I've removed several spark plugs with Allen sockets or Torx sockets hammered in before now (once the porcelain is taken out). They don't put too much pressure on the inside of the plug and if you get a good fit, an air gun will "sometimes" zip them out. You've just reminded me, I do have a set of splined type somewhere. I'll dig them out tomorrow! The taper ones are never great in my experience. Have used torx in the past with success! Thanks all, got a few things to try tomorrow now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gusset Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Yeah, I've only ever tried tapered ones. No use at all; they just make me swear. Recently I had a snapped LEFT HAND thread stud on a tractor that was a right bastard. Obviously you cannot use a RH extractor ... ended up drilling and helicoiling in desperation using a RH thread, Loctite 290 and welding the whole lot. Nope- failed within 15 mins. Bollocks. Where the stud is slightly proud I've been able to cut a slot and had success with a *manual* impact driver before (not pneumatic or electric - too fierce) but it's by no means certain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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