kaighn80 Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Particularly grades that can be easily machined and then welded to a Honda cbr1000rr swing arm, I'd prefer something that wasn't priced up there with unobtainium but I only need about 6 inches (said the actress to the bishop) so that's not too much of a restricting factor. If you'd be so kind.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Doug! 5083 at a guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdunc Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Yarp. 5083, can't remember what rod you need of top of me head. It's the closest grade to what Honda would of used, and doesn't need heat treating post weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 5356. That's what I like anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Mate the cost of the ally is neither here or there. It's all much of a muchness apart from 7075 which is double. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Doug! 5083 at a guess Might have to pm you regarding the sticking together of bits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Well we are just round the corner! We probably have some 5083 so do a sketch or whatever and let me take a look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 You about tomorrow might pop over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Might be later on in the afternoon ill pm you when im down there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Ossum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 found this from Dave Pearce Although the welds on this chassis are beautiful I think it's important to be precise on the exact filler material. there are a lot of enthusiastic novice welders out there who in the interests of safety need to know. For what it is worth, this is what I use. Sorry if this is British spec On chrome moly tube filler rod ER70S-2 NEVER stainless 6082 Alu 4043 5083 Alu 5356 I use a Lanthanated (Blue Tip)Tungsten Electrode for all materials A Gas Lens is used whenever possible. What others choose is up to them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garage19 Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 If you want to be shit hot then 5183 rod is the way to go for 5083. However most welders are usually too lazy to buy specific rods for each job and will only carry 4043 and 5356. Of these two 5356 is perfectly acceptable and the one to use as long as not seeing elevated temperatures of about 70deg C. What sort of chunk of metal do you need? A bit if sheet or some bar stock for machining? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Ill need flat sheet material and bar stock, seeing mr porter about the bar stock tonight, but I've had to mod the swinger to miss the r1 shock absorber I'm planning on fitting, by mod obviously I mean cut the shit out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garage19 Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 If mr porter is to busy I have plenty of 5083 sheet here in various gauges and could weld it up for cider money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Im here now about to walk the dog back in a bit but ivan will be here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdunc Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 found this from Dave Pearce Although the welds on this chassis are beautiful I think it's important to be precise on the exact filler material. there are a lot of enthusiastic novice welders out there who in the interests of safety need to know. For what it is worth, this is what I use. Sorry if this is British spec On chrome moly tube filler rod ER70S-2 NEVER stainless 6082 Alu 4043 5083 Alu 5356 I use a Lanthanated (Blue Tip)Tungsten Electrode for all materials A Gas Lens is used whenever possible. What others choose is up to them Where is this quoted from Jamie? Pitlane.biz? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hmmmmmm, pit-lane.biz, may need to practice my French Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 hon he etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garage19 Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 I thought Dave Pearce did dance anthems? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanerdog1x1 Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 .... Of these two 5356 is perfectly acceptable and the one to use as long as not seeing elevated temperatures of about 70deg C. .... um, why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Rate of expansion? Decrease in strength? Nora clue but other wiser people than me said it therefore I will listen.Spoke to my supplier and they don't seem to be able to get 5083 in bar stock?!? Any ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Scrap that he's a dougnut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2moto Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 5083 cannot be extruded, so only available in round bar, plate and sheet. http://www.smithmetal.com/products/catalogue.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 did you find some for sensible money? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garage19 Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 um, why? Because the manufacturers say so. It's because of the mag content in 5356. It's no good for 70 deg or above. I make a lot of sumps and use 4043 on them for this reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Yep ordered twice as much as I need should take delivery thursday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanerdog1x1 Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Well, I did a little digging, and apparently thats true. However, we carry a fair amount of different rods in the stock room, and the most common rods we use are:- 5356 - for welding pretty much everything. 5251 sheet, 6082 sheet and bar, 6061 bar, and 6082 to 5251. this includes dry sump tanks that regularly see 70+ degrees, radiators which can see 120degrees, heat exchangers that can similarly see 100+ degrees. as well as swirl pots, fuel tanks, catch tanks etc which stay cod. 4043 - 5% silicon, this calms down a dirty weld pool. Generally used for repairing castings, or sometimes for 6082 assemblies that need 'telling' post welding. 4043 doesn't mind being stretched a bit, so its good also for a strong tack, that needs subtle adjustment before welding proper. 1050 - used to join 1050 and/or 1200. nicest rod to weld with, leaves a very shiny bead. This is from my limited 8 years experience, but draws from my colleagues experience of 15 and 26 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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