MonkeyJim Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 hi all I'm looking to replace the headbearings on the k6 thou. I was last out on the bike about a month ago and during a spirited ride I had a couple of tankslappers, the second being a proper full on 'oh fuck' one. I've had a few of these recently so I checked the headbearings and there's a definite 'notch' on them around centre position. I had the front end out and re-greased them over 12 months ago and thought they were ok but clearly they're not. So I'm going to have a go at replacing them. the ones in there are the original OEM caged ball bearings, now 25k miles old, so I think I'll swap to a set of taper rollers instead. anyone got any recommendations for replacements and hints/tips for doing the job? Never done this job before so any advice welcome. Ta cheers in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Didn't you rebuild your R1 motor? Doing your head bearings will be piss easy by comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricey3 Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 piece of piss with the right stuff. get a decent set of rollers SKF etc. Heat gun/blow lamp to help getting the lower race out. You'll also need an extra long punch or somehing very simialr to knock the lower race out from above, There is only a tiny lip so the heat helps slightly and you need a very squsare edge on the punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrdrink Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Getting the seat off the steering stem is the worst job. A sharp ish chisel that u don't mind getting blunted is one of the best things to get them started. If u haven't got a suitable drift then what I do is cut the original seat with a disc cutter then you can flip it upside down on the top of the roller bearing and drive that down. The cut allows u to get it back off. Putting the steering stem in The freezer for an hour beforehand will help the job, along with the seats for the frame. Warm the frame and they will nearly push in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilchicken0 Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Get a lump hammer. If you've got an wheel old spindle, swingarm pivot bolt etc they make a good drift and you can pu the flange nut on the wrong way so it can get on the race to start it. It's more about controlled violence than difficult work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Didn't you rebuild your R1 motor? Doing your head bearings will be piss easy by comparison. yeah I did, rebuilt a gearbox. dunno why but something about the headbearings is making me a bit nervous. I guess because I've never done them before on any bike I've owned.... that said I'd never done a gearbox before either.... maybe I've just caught teh ghey a bit, or something. thanks for the suggestions so far. well I'd better crack on and order some new bearings then. bike's up on the stand ready to go, just got to drop the forks out and then it's 'hammer time' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorious77 Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Just done the steering bearings on my Mille and it took about 2 Hrs start to finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 new bearings ordered went for some genuine japanese koyo bearings from bearingsexpress on ebay, including a new top and bottom seal for 27 quid the whole lot incld P&P which I thought was a fair price. there were plenty available that were cheaper but I wanted some good quality ones. just got to drop the forks out and get cracking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 can I just say that a new taper-roller bearing is a thing of great beauty and joy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theo Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 can I just say that a new taper-roller bearing is a thing of great beauty and joy You can say it but it might lead to people assuming youve led a very sheltered life. .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrdrink Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 can I just say that a new taper-roller bearing is a thing of great beauty and joy You wont be saying that a couple of hours after starting the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_lee_pettimore Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Go for it son! http://aboyandhisduc.blogspot.com/2010/11/tapered-roller-head-bearing.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_lee_pettimore Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 One of these are nice for getting that bottom race out. http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Park-Tool-USA-Steering-Race-Remover-26-35mm-RT-1-p/4455473.htm?Click=35177 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leighio Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 So you like play with your balls lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_lee_pettimore Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 I can't seem to keep my hands off them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 5, 2013 Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 Get a new seal for the bottom yoke first. I wasted ages trying to remove the old bearing without ruining the seal. http://biketech7.blogspot.com.au/2012/02/gsxr1000-k5k6-suspension-steering-head.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted October 6, 2013 Report Share Posted October 6, 2013 when setting up your new ones , disconnect your steering damper and measure the effort to turn the bars , loop a cable tie or similar around the end of the bars and use a spring balance , after the initial tug it should take 200 to 500 g to move it , but you have to torque everything up before you measure it or it will change , also lift or remove your tank out of the way , generally you have to overtighten the bearings to make sure they're settled then back them off a bit to get the correct adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted October 6, 2013 Report Share Posted October 6, 2013 Getting the seat off the steering stem is the worst job. A sharp ish chisel that u don't mind getting blunted is one of the best things to get them started. If u haven't got a suitable drift then what I do is cut the original seat with a disc cutter then you can flip it upside down on the top of the roller bearing and drive that down. The cut allows u to get it back off. Putting the steering stem in The freezer for an hour beforehand will help the job, along with the seats for the frame. Warm the frame and they will nearly push in. Bicycle shops have a great Park tool that clamps down on the edge of the lower outer race on the stem and then pushes down on the top of the stem with a big screw. I suppose Motorcycle shops have something similar, but just hit the bicycle shop with a good 6-pack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Get a new seal for the bottom yoke first. I wasted ages trying to remove the old bearing without ruining the seal. http://biketech7.blogspot.com.au/2012/02/gsxr1000-k5k6-suspension-steering-head.html Cheers for the advice; got a new pair of seals when I ordered the bearings when setting up your new ones , disconnect your steering damper and measure the effort to turn the bars , loop a cable tie or similar around the end of the bars and use a spring balance , after the initial tug it should take 200 to 500 g to move it , but you have to torque everything up before you measure it or it will change , also lift or remove your tank out of the way , generally you have to overtighten the bearings to make sure they're settled then back them off a bit to get the correct adjustment Thanks for the suggestion. Whilst I've never replaced them before, I have adjusted them a few times over the years so I'm familiar with the process. The s/damper's already off, it came off to get the bottom yoke out and I'll leave it off while I adjust the new ones And the tank is already off; no way I'm bashing about with a hammer with that nearby! I stared at that bike lift for a full minute, one of those is on my shopping list. Yeah it';s a bloody brilliant bit of kit and it makes working on the bike so much easier; I'd be lost without it now. it's a great alternative to a ramp, 'cos when it's not in use it folds up flat and stands against the wall, as I don't have much room in my garage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 I assume you mean for installing the new bearing? A pair of ladder clamps (this type)makes a great improvised bearing press - use one "hook" threaded bar, with one handle and bar below, poke it through the headstock and use a bar and handle on the top. Job jobbed. That is a great idea and I might take that further; see later If you are replacing ball beaings with taper roller bearings before you press the outer races into the frame check the overlap of the outer race with the bore of the headstock. The abutment in the headstock that the ball bearing outer race seated on may well be wider than the new, narrower, taper roller bearing outer race and make future removal of the new outer race very difficult because the outer race no longer overhangs the abutment. If this is the case it is worth relieving the abutment in 2 or 3 equally spaced positions, with a nice smooth radius, so that you can get a drift or puller behind the race. Thanks for the advice Mike. A mate had mentioned the same so I checked before I ordered the taper-rollers, it's not an issue. And here's how I've got on so far..... On Friday I made a visit to the lair of Banoffee of this parish, he of Attention to Detail fame. Over the course of a cuppa Steve had the old inner race off the stem, and the new taper roller and new seal pressed into place. A job that would have taken me ages, so thank you Sir. Just got to grease up the bearing thoroughly.... And yesterday I made a start on the rest of it. A selection of hitting implements were gathered to start driving the old races out of the head Turns out the old engine mounting bolt was perfect for the job and after some bashing the old races were successfully out, without any drama Having done a bit of research, I took a dremel to the old races and cut a slot into them, so they could then be used to drive the new ones in. As it turned out, they were a perfect fit around my 36mm impact socket, here's my home-made bearing driver New races ready to go after a night in the freezer and being kept cold with some ice packs And a short while later, the new top outer race is going.... Going... Gone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 but that's as far as I managed to get. still got the lower outer race to do but that proved trickier, mostly because of having to hit upwards instead of down and with the wires and brakelines etc it's more awkward so I'm working on a Plan B which is to make use of a press. more to follow soon hopefully! in the meantime, I thought this was interesting - it shows the big difference in surface area that the taper-rollers have over the OEM caged ball bearing race PS and check out the notch on the old lower race, on the opposite side to the slot I cut in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefatman Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 You need a bigger hammer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 You need a draw bolt. A length of all thread, two nuts and a pair of repair washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 My pleasure, cheers for the beer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 My pleasure, cheers for the beer you're welcome mate. thanks for sorting that for me, would have taken me ages I think You need a draw bolt. A length of all thread, two nuts and a pair of repair washers. indeed I do and Plan B is already well underway, I've just made up a drawbolt it's a metre of M10 threaded rod, which I cut in half to make it more manageable, with a load of M10 x 50mm washers (which are the same outer diameter as the 36mm socket and the inner diameter of the outer race, if that makes sense); there's a pair of M10 nuts locked together at the left hand (top) end to allow me to hold the rod, and turning the single nut at the right hand (bottom) end should(!!) drive the lower outer race upwards into the frame. The bit of wood represents the lower outer race in the pic, as I left it at work yesterday by mistake. all bits sourced from stores and the carpenters workshop at work, total cost about £2!! need to get the lower race back in the freezer overnight again before I give it another go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Business idea: 2 cones on a bit thread, both pointing in towards the middle to squeeze head bearings into place. Get me a job at snap on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VeeTeeArr Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 After the initial tightening of the stem top nut I always turn the steering from lock to lock 5 or 6 times. Sometimes the bearings aren't fully seated and this will help them to bed into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 need to get the lower race back in the freezer overnight again before I give it another go. good times home-made drawbolt worked a treat, lower race now installed, here's a crappy blurry pic of it in place just need to grease up the new bearings thoroughly and sling it all back together well chuffed to have it sorted; thanks to all for the advice along the way I'm awarding myself an extra 100 man-points for the satisfaction of having made my own tool for the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 It's good and I'm sure you've done a lovely job, but it's now the 11th and you started on the 1st and the forks are still not attached to the bike. I'm glad I'm not your boss... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 It's good and I'm sure you've done a lovely job, but it's now the 11th and you started on the 1st and the forks are still not attached to the bike. I'm glad I'm not your boss... cheeky fecker ;-) anyway, I greased up the bearings and the races with lashings of lovely purple silkolene pro RG2, the grease of champions, and bunged it all back together mmmmmmmmmmmm steering sweetness has returned to the k6 still got to set the fork heights correctly before I do up all the clamp bolts etc but other than that, job jobbed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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