Evilchicken0 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Dont want to sound patronising, but you've spent a small fortune trying to fix it. Take it to a dealer you trust, who will probably diagnose and fix it for half of what you have already spent on it. Sometimes we have to admit defeat. Get it dyno'd it needs a proper diagnostic to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 You can be fairly certain the carbs are clean. Next up, make sure there's no intake leaks, do this because it's free. Then borrow a carb balancer. This is also free. Make sure chokes are returning OK. Then look at dynos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 still sound's like it's running rich to me , hence the earlier advice on the needles / emulsion tubes , take the diaphragm off the top of the carb and have a good look ( magnifying glass if needed ) at the top of your emulsion tube if they have gone out of round it will screw up your low down running , seen it several times on dynojetted bikes , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elohesra Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Theres no point in having the carbs balanced until the valve clearances have been done. Is there anything unique to no.3, such as a vacuum pipe for the fuel etc, or a leaky scottoiler connection which could be drawing air in? Even a perished rubber blanking plug for the carb balancer connections could be the cause. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendo Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Or they'll go over the same ground again and charge the op handsomely for it. I honestly believe that there's virtually nothing the collective pb mind can't sort out, the knowledge here is as good as any dealer. I do agree with you, but its certainly an option he should think about. When my R1 had an intermittant backfire, I spent a lot of time and money changing exhaust gaskets, spark plugs, AIS plug kit and cleaning the carbs to no avail. I gave up eventually and took it to an independant bike mechanic I know who started it up, blipped the throttle and said - "Its a bit fluffy, the carbs need balanced". £30 and 1 hour later I had a perfectly running R1. I'd easily spent twice that changing bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom_1991 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Check the Throttle position sensor as someone already said. Probably only take 30 seconds to check its correctly adjusted, maybe one minute to sort if it isn't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorious77 Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 I have had an almost identical problem on a ZX6R and it turned out that the clip holding the needle in position had fallen out so the needle was moving up on its own at idle but WOT was fine as the slide pulled it up to where it should be. Also with regard to the diaphragm there is sometimes a tiny o-ring that can fall out giving rough running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exuprob Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Ok, more time spent and still got nowhere. Carbs back off and returned to standard settings (jets, springs, needles and idle mixture settings) and its much worse. Cyls 3 and 4 not running at idle but chime in as soon as the throttle is cracked opened. Ive got a mate with a track R1 and he's agreed to let me borrow his carbs so I can try them out. If I fit them and its fine then I know what to do to sort them, if its still running like crap then itll be time to delve further into the motor. Will not be beaten on this. Quick question, should unplugging the TPS make the bike run any different to normal? My bike runs the same either way but does show the fault code on the rev counter but otherwise it runs the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Ive sent you a shed load of settings for you to go through but going through this thread this i what has happened. 1st it was bad at anything below 5k It was bad on Number 3 (wd40 on exhaust caused no smoke) You have done the valve clearances Swapped the coils Installed new plugs (Problem still there) After you put the carbs back on from me it was running bad on 3&4 on idle but fine once throttle opened.(1.5k and above) (Installed standard needles,mains,A/F mix setting) (Problem Still there) I would be looking into Syncing the carbs. As i said to you via PM, i think now its 3&4 which are out regarding the A/F setting. (The issue has also never moved from cylinder 3,despite all the swapping ect) That says something. By installing your mates ones you will confirm if it is carb related (BUT) it wont tell you if it needs a balance or if an airway is still blocked. If it is (or you suspect it is) then send them back and i will gladly do them for free.But so others know i use 9 bar (130 psi) to blast the air/fuel ways straight after the heated sonic clean.This is when everything is soft.And whilst i have never had an issue with any carb i have cleaned there will always be one or two that come back to bite you lol. BTW.. syncing of carbs on your model is every 6000 km or 3500k miles (av) Adjust TPS:- (I doubt its this though) 1. Set the main switch (ignition) to “ON”. Unplug TPS 2.Then reconnect it 3. Loosen the throttle position sensor screws 4. Adjust the throttle position sensor angle according to the following table. Tacho reading 0rm = too small 5000rpm = correct 10,000rpm = too big 5. After adjusting the throttle position sensor angle, tighten the throttle position sensor screws. 6.To exit setting turn ignition off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exuprob Posted March 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Ok, last installment......... Borrowed a spare set of carbs, standard jets and settings, fitted them and.......still grumpy. Turns out that, on either set of carbs, its weak firing on no 3 BUT once it warms up everything smooths out and it runs ok. Not as good as it did but alot better than it was. I think the tight valve clearances have caused a bit of valve seat damage, not much but enough to make it run rough but as it warms up and the engine expands it tightens up (oooer Mrs) enough to run ok. Outcome is I now just want to ride so this is the state it'll stay in for the Summer and I'll lift the head on it when the weather gets colder again. Best get it taxed then............. Big thanks for all the advice and especially to Budgetboy for sorting the carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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