cagimaha Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 I'm looking at fitting an oil cooler to my bike, more to increase the capacity of the oil system than reduce the oil temperature but it does definitely get hot in traffic. And partly because they look cool as fuck. The thing is I'm planning on fitting the oil cooler behind the engine, under the seat and as such it won't have any serious airflow travelling over it. I've seen it done on flat track race bikes so I'm assuming it's a viable option but I'm aware that a flat track bike is used under somewhat different conditions to a road bike. Is this ok? My thinking was that even without a constant airflow the increased surface area of the unit will improve heat dissipation to some extent. I'm looking at either an inline thermostat or one built into the adapter for the oil lines to make sure the oil isn't cooled too much but I don't think this will be an issue. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Have a chat with Richard at Racebikebitz tell him Mark at PhaseOne sent you. http://racebikebitz.com/contact He had hold of some Bailey Motorsport coolers which would be ideal for what you're thinking. Can't find them on Bailey's site. The ones I'm thinking of have radial fins around a straight tube core. Great increase in area for not a lot of weight. a pair tucked into an alloy subframe would look ultra cool. Did this to my Bonneville project years ago with a 2CV cooler mounted just below the headstock, found a temp activated bypass valve from somewhere to switch the cooler and all the plumbing in and out. Sorry can't remember more, was about 25 yrs ago, Gulp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Cheers Mark, I'll check it out. I've actually got a cooler already, its a Lockheed one I had fitted to a Kawasaki Z1R a while back. I'm open to other options though, the bike I'm planning on fitting it to is a Bonneville... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 If it's T120/T140 I'd think about uprating the pump, I was after the same capacity raising trick and I wanted a bike that could handle a 2 up trip around Southern Spain and the North Africa coast. The Morgo is bigger capacity, but the biggest of the lot is the 8 valve engine one, worth having a chat with Nourish if you can't find an 8 valver. I got my setup working alright, but it does require some thought. Essential the pump has 2 seperate chambers, one dragging oil out of the resevoir/frame the other is sorting the sump inside the cases. That first chamber is sending oil through the timing case and then through the crank to the big ends. I reckoned that this probably didn't need cooling as it has a fresh supply from the frame. The second scavenges this oil and pumps it up to the head where the pipe splits. The side going to the union on the rocker boxes forces oil down onto the valves through the shims between rocker and box, which ends up falling down the push rod tubes to lubricate the cam followers, finally finding it's way to the bottom of the cases. The trick is, how much oil ends up in the head and how much flows back on the other side of the splitter into the frame. Inside the tube feeding back into the frame (or oil tank on the T120's) there's a venturi that governs the flow, anything that won't go through the venturi, goes to the head. With the 8 valve pump there's more lift from the scavenge side and there should be enough pressure to feed up to a cooler. I'm pretty sure that I rigged it so that my valve would just isolate the cooler in the up line, leaving the splitter down stream so that both the venturi and the feed to the rocker boxes were both always live. Sadly I cannot remember how exactly I managed that stunt. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Thanks for the info, its one of the last t120's. Its got a later t140 pump fitted already but I'll look into the nourish pump. I think I can rig the thermostat switch in the lines to the pump/head in the mannner you describe. I'll let you know how I get on. I've got a rewire to sort out 1st... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Ah Nice, check the lead coming from the generator. Most of the Lucas ones have 2 bullets on the end, but there's probably a 3rd cable end that's been cut off hiding in the sheathing. This cut wire is the Lucas mod to take a 3 phse generator down to 2 phase Reinstate this 3rd cable, bang a modern connector on the end and feed it into a Yam or Honda reg/rec and you can ditch the Zener Diode, which is a loathful thing. Should massively increase reliability. On mine I also fitted a fuse box with trip switches in it (don't remember where I got it though) seem to remember that it ran a 25amp circuit for the ignition and a couple of 20's for the lights front and rear. This got rid of the glass fuses blowing problem that most Brit bikes face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted July 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 I've picked up a two phase combined reg/rec so I can junk the zener diode, etc. I did look into some marine circuit breakers instead of fuses but decided to go with some mini blade ones because they take up less space. It doesn't (touch wood) pop fuses at the moment so hopefully shouldn't after a re-wire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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