jollygiant Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I have searched but can't find any info on these... I have been given this.... I'm pretty good with most mechanical stuff but with lecktricks I'm the missing link..... How do I wire this in?? Do I just plug the red(live) and black (earth)spades from the unit straight into the exsisting head lamp connector or do I have to use a relay? If so how the phuck do I do that???? Or will I just set fire to myself? I have a 2004 Tuono and it is H7 unit same as my dip beam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connor Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Simply put yes, you might have to cut the rubber gromit to get it all in but that should be it, plug and play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollygiant Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Really that simple? I really did think it would be the latter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Fitted a couple to customer bikes, peasy, no relays. Hardest part is finding somewhere to put the ballast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Also, don't be alarmed when you first start it up, it sort of whistles a bit, similar to a laser printer when it's just about to start printing. Incidentally, mine's just about made main beam redundant, a beautiful clear wide spread of light. If it was legal to have one on main beam I'd be able to ride at night without actually noticing it was night time. Awesome things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollygiant Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 That may explain why when I plugged it in it didn't work So I took it off and just assumed he gave me a duff unit....How long do you have to wait the 1st time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefatman Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Five seconds or so. Not very long. Did you plug the spade connectors into the right sockets on the original headlamp connector? An easy way to check it is working is to try it directly onto the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Do they do this kind of thing in H4 bulb? All my bikes have H4 bulbs. Would it be legal to do main beam with HID one side on the twin-lamped Speed Triple? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobo Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 What's the legality with fitting these to bikes ? I know on cars they have to be self-levelling and I believe the MOT has recently been changed to make them illegal if they are retro-fitted to older cars without a levelling system. Is it the same with bikes ? Are they fitted as standard to any current bikes that you could fit the self-levelling system from ? I've got upgrade whiter bulbs in my bike but anything that would assist the blind cagers see me when I'm commuting would be great....... although I reckon the only thing that would do that would be some sort of flashing neon sign. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefatman Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Yes, you get it to replace both high and low beam though. Go for 4300K rather than higher ones as they give better quality light. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35w-HID-BI-XENON-conversion-KIT-H4-4300k-6000K-8000K-10000K-dual-beam-bulbs-/230980773120?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Lamps&var=&hash=item35c786e500 Or with slim ballasts http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35W-HID-Bi-Xenon-Slim-Kit-H4-H13-HB1-9007-9008-Hi-Lo-4300K-6000K-8000K-10000K-/360644661412?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53f818d0a4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyk Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Over here in Germany the tüv (mot) man informed me" the light must be fitted with a self-levelling system and must have functioning lamp wash system. There is no actual info. for bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connor Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 I have them on my Ducati, both sides, never had a problem in any of the MOT's i've had, not even a mention, I think the fact that he always comments on the loud exhaust throws him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 I had an HID fitted to dipped beam on my Gen 1 RSV Mille and it was great - much brighter than standard and picks out signs and other reflective stuff (cop cars etc) much better! Mine was an H4 so I had to trim the plastic retaining ring (HID bulb had thicker tags than the metal standard bulb) but it was otherwise plug and play. I cable tied the ballast to the fairing cradle cross bar behind the clocks. Only other thing I would do is to mod it so dipped beam is on all the time. This means you don't get plunged into darkness when you switch from main back to dipped on a dark road! Easily done by fitting a link in the left switchgear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 While we're on this, I got a set of H4 for the car a while back. Phase One have been using H7's as Endurance lamps (including on classic racers :whistles:) for about 7 years since they were about £100 a pop(thankfully not literaly). The H4's were £30 quid, I only wanted them in the low beams, 'cause you can't really flash with HID's. If you're fitting Hi beam to a bike, disable the flasher, too easy to burn out the bulbs. There are dual Hi/Lo's out there if you're stuck with only one shell to play with, but flash is not recommended. The kit I got seemed to have it's polarity arse about face. If it won't plug and play the logical way round, you won't do any harm switching the polarity to get them to run. The main components are a transformer (hence the buzzing) to take the voltage up to 2000V and a capacitor to fire the gas inside the bulb. Wire up a capacitor backwards and it won't do fook all. Advice above about colour is very true. The kits you see fitted to boy racers that look really blue are in the 9-12k range, 'kin pointless. When I was first researching HID, all those years ago, I took advice off a guy who used to design for Philips. Seems as you get older you can't see in the higher colour ranges and you'll get no benefit. His advice was that if our riders were about 30, 6k would be about as hot as we'd want to go. Final advice, if you're working on the bike and turn the lights on without the bulb in, don't go near it. Turn the ignition back off and refit the bulb. the belt you get off one doesn't hurt as you earth it out,but it's enough to make you drop a spanner. Ask me how I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollygiant Posted June 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Final advice, if you're working on the bike and turn the lights on without the bulb in, don't go near it. Turn the ignition back off and refit the bulb. the belt you get off one doesn't hurt as you earth it out,but it's enough to make you drop a spanner. Ask me how I know. I did the same with a proper SLR camera flash gun about 20 yrs ago. It wasn't working so I took it apart and found the big fook off capacitor held it's charge without the batteries in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonk Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 I've got a HID H7 on my ginger bike, it started going off but would work again restarting the bike. Then it failed completely. Is there any way to test the different components to see where the fault is, ie with a multimeter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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