cagimaha Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 Does anyone have any experience using one of these batteries in conjunction with the bikes standard charging system without any type of battery management system? Cheers, Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansp1 Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 Had one on the SP1 all year and it has been fine, it is tiny and weighs nothing, i reckon if it can handle a v twin anything else should be a piece of cake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted June 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 I'm not worried about it's output capacity, I'm only using a tiny one as all it's got to power is an ECU. I'm concerned about it being fed a constant 14.4V charge current when it's already fully charged, something the manufacturers say you should never do. If yours has lasted a year though I reckon I'll give it a go. Did you make your own from individual cells? I really want to buy a pack pre-balanced and shrink wrapped if I can but most model suppliers don't seem to do them in 13.2V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansp1 Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultrabatt-Lightweight-Lithium-Racing-Battery-Kawasaki-ZX10R-ZX6R-/140980875873?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item20d31d7261 I am sure there are cheaper but this is what i got.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2moto Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 This is an excellent product: http://www.super-b.com/en/motorcycles/sb12v2600p-ac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kayla Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 I use one of these- http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14070__ZIPPY_Flightmax_4200mAh_4S1P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack.html and a couple of Anderson connectors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo S2 Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 I have a ballistic battery on my srad, still charged by the alternator. All works well. Very light and nicely made. As stated by kayla, Anderson connectors make it easy to take it on/off for charging etc. Buy a good charger, but be careful you don't pay too much for what is essentially a rebranded cheaper charger... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toneale Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 I've had a Shorai one on my blade with a stock charging system for a few months now with no problems to report http://www.vpmtech.eu/en/category/battery-shorai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomekzxr Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 I made one pack of 8 A123 cells bought on ebay from china. All costed same as regular battery. I'm using it now for 3rd season and no problems. You can leave it for winter, then without charging it starts the bike after a few months. It keeps charge so much better than acid batteries. One downside is they don't work so well below 15 Celsius. You need to preheat the battery by loading it with starter. As opposite to acid battery You hold the starter button despite it has no power to turn. But this will heat the battery. Then wait 10-15second and bike starts on second try. It works even in frost just sometimes at 3rd-4th attempt. I use it on crossplane R1 that is not the easiest to start. You can always go for 12 cell pack instead of 8cells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Thanks for all the responses, as I said I'm not worried about it running out of juice, just that I'd kill it by overcharging. I've not got a starter fitted and I'm not running total loss so all the battery has to do is power the ECU and the coil. Kayla, am I right in thinking that one is a 4 cell jobbie? If so I think that fits the bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desmo57 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 I'm not worried about it's output capacity, I'm only using a tiny one as all it's got to power is an ECU. I'm concerned about it being fed a constant 14.4V charge current when it's already fully charged, something the manufacturers say you should never do. If yours has lasted a year though I reckon I'll give it a go. Did you make your own from individual cells? I really want to buy a pack pre-balanced and shrink wrapped if I can but most model suppliers don't seem to do them in 13.2V. A battery is fully charged when it reaches it's final load tension (around 13,8v for a lead battery). This tension is almost equal with the tension coming from the bikes regulator which is stabilized and limited to 14,4v. At that point the battery will no longer pull a large current from it's loading source. So now you don't have to worry about keeping the battery connected. More info here: http://www.skyrichba...ions/pages.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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