MonkeyJim Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 after some advice please good folk of PBforum-land have just ordered some lovely new Titanium caliper mounting bolts to replace the somewhat manky OEM bolts on the k6 'thou.(I decided against blue anodised ones) I'm presuming a smear of copper-slip would be acceptable (awaits flaming) but to what torque should they be tightened? are Ti bolts different to steel ones in that sense? they are size M10 x 1.25 x 70mm in case that makes any difference. the factory manual states 39Nm ta muchly chaps and chapesses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdunc Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Read the posts by Trigger, http://pbmagforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=42867 I would tighten to standard torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo S2 Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Can open, worms everywhere.... For what its worth, I don't copperslip mine, just tighten them up to the correct torque. I also lockwire them when I have the time, but this tends to get forgotton when I swap to my wets... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egg on Leggs Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Had them on my VFR for 5-6 years now, coppa and standard torque without problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Every single nut and bolt on my bike is Ti, except rod bolts, a few of the main crankcase half joining bolts and the head studs. Treat them as normal fasteners as far as I'm concerned excepth they won't leave a funny taste in your gob when you lick them. Edited to add important taste info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 From a technical point of view, the thread distortion required to maximise the contact area of a steel bolt thread in alloy female thread, just about all of the stretch will be in the parent alloy. Hence you can use the same torque with a Ti bolt. Thas to remember, the Ti is a very 'noble' metal and the alloy is much lower down the periodic table. There will be more galvanic corrosion than when employing a steel bolt. In this case the only corrosion will happen in the parent alloy. You will need some sort of barrier grease in the thread to ease this. Copperslip is useful here as the copper will corrode before the alloy! There are more trick anti-galvanic thread lubes, but you'll pay through the nose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuban pete Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 From a technical point of view, the thread distortion required to maximise the contact area of a steel bolt thread in alloy female thread, just about all of the stretch will be in the parent alloy. Hence you can use the same torque with a Ti bolt. Thas to remember, the Ti is a very 'noble' metal and the alloy is much lower down the periodic table. There will be more galvanic corrosion than when employing a steel bolt. In this case the only corrosion will happen in the parent alloy. You will need some sort of barrier grease in the thread to ease this. Copperslip is useful here as the copper will corrode before the alloy! There are more trick anti-galvanic thread lubes, but you'll pay through the nose. Fuck me mate , had to look some of those words up . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toneale Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 From a technical point of view, the thread distortion required to maximise the contact area of a steel bolt thread in alloy female thread, just about all of the stretch will be in the parent alloy. Hence you can use the same torque with a Ti bolt. Thas to remember, the Ti is a very 'noble' metal and the alloy is much lower down the periodic table. There will be more galvanic corrosion than when employing a steel bolt. In this case the only corrosion will happen in the parent alloy. You will need some sort of barrier grease in the thread to ease this. Copperslip is useful here as the copper will corrode before the alloy! There are more trick anti-galvanic thread lubes, but you'll pay through the nose. Sorry young man but I got completely lost and confused at "from a technical point of view....." I'm sure you spout much wisdom however its completely wasted on a thick eeejit like myself. Carry on........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 cheers for the replies all. copper-slip and standard torques is the winner. just need the bolts to turn up now.... don't want to have to put the originals back in if I can help it. but no caliper bolts at all might be an MOT fail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gurninman Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 cheers for the replies all. copper-slip and standard torques is the winner. just need the bolts to turn up now.... don't want to have to put the originals back in if I can help it. but no caliper bolts at all might be an MOT fail I've been using ti caliper bolts for years on my ZX9 (they were on a GSXR400 that I'd removed the calipers from) , with nary a spot of lube and standard torque - have had no problems in that time, but I do remove the calipers for a clean at least once a month Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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