dai1984 Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Morning guys! I have put the bike back together and noticed it is overheating. The fan kicks in at 105 but doesn't seem to stop the temperature increasing and it's gone to about 112 before I've turned it off. I think there's coolant dripping out of the rad cap area. Would a faulty rad cap cause over heating on such a scale or is it a symptom of something else? Just off to have another look at it this morning and try and rebleed it If I can. There was no oil/coolant contamination in either the oil or coolant The coolant hoses are not pressurised No bubbles in radiator Radiator full and overflow halfway Thanks yet again in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Faulty temp sensor or thermostat (IMO of course) *Provided there is no air locks in the system that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Gonna try bleeding again but if that's fine I'll try the stat. How do you test the sensor? I wouldn't have thought the sensor would have caused the coolant to leak, it would just give an incorrect reading? Bike has full system, pc3 with a map of the site and I've removed the ais. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blow_away Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 One way of getting all the air traps out is to take the bike out for a gentle ride over some bumpy roads, or if its a race bike take it for a wee spin in the van. I think the bumps shake all the air traps to the top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gobert Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 If the rad cap isn't sealing - and therefore not holding pressure - as it should then that will mean that the coolant's boiling point is lowered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Lowered then overheats the engine? I've had the cap off and the levels gone down to an inch below the top. FFs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Ah good old air locks.. heres a tip.. Leave the rad cap off and start the bike and let it idle.. The air will find its way to the top as there is no pressure (which make the process slower) but the water pump is pushing the air/water through.You need somewhere for the air to escape see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 storm in a tea cup IMO and sounds like an air lock Ah good old air locks.. heres a tip.. Leave the rad cap off and start the bike and let it idle.. The air will find its way to the top as there is no pressure (which make the process slower) but the water pump is pushing the air/water through.You need somewhere for the air to escape see. storm in a tea cup IMO and sounds like an air lock Did this and shook it side to side and heard the gulping noise as the coolant dropped. Had a few further bubbles. The fan is coming on and temp lowers to mid 90s where is rises again at idle. Gonna top it up when its cool then take it out and see how it goes on the move and its cool here today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted May 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Quick update: After I did the above, I took the bike out and let it heat up in traffic and also on a short blast. The temperature was a lot lower but still higher than previously and there was still coolant leaking from the rad area. I spent the weekend stressing about HGF but tried convincing myself the signs were not there. I took the fairing off to check for other leaks but there was nothing. I took the cap to the local dealers and found the large diaphragm wasn't sealing at all (the tech was also happy as he got to use a tool he'd never used before). The part is £47 inc vat from Yamaha so anyone know where else I can get one from? It's rated for 1.1 bar. Ill also add that I usually get my spares from this place and they even suggested I try online! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Just about any rad cap from your local breaker should fit and will almost certainly be 1.1 Bar. If you want to up the pressure for use in hot weather and track days, P1 used to run at 1.4 without too many probs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendo Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Thread driftage.... Out of interest what do peoples R1's run at? I dont think ive ever seen over 65*C on my 5JJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted May 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Just about any rad cap from your local breaker should fit and will almost certainly be 1.1 Bar. If you want to up the pressure for use in hot weather and track days, P1 used to run at 1.4 without too many probs. Thanks! I don't mind buying new from a recommended specialist or from another manufacturer, not for £46 quid though! Thread driftage.... Out of interest what do peoples R1's run at? I dont think ive ever seen over 65*C on my 5JJ. Remember my bike used to run at roughly 75C l Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_H Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 I've got a spare from an r6, welcome to it if you'd like - let me know via pm before tomorrow though as it'll be my last chance to post it before I'm off on hols! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 Thread driftage.... Out of interest what do peoples R1's run at? I dont think ive ever seen over 65*C on my 5JJ. My 4xv used to run at around 70-80. In traffic on a hot day, it'd get up to about 110-115. I once had 127 showing on the dash, coincidentally this was also the same day i found out the fan switch had malfunctioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 @ Dai1984 £47 for a fucking radiator cap? I thought buggery was illegal in this country. I've got a spare R1 radiator cap knocking around in my garage, it's from my old 4xv '99 reg but I very much doubt it will be any different to a newer one. you're welcome to it FOC if you wanna give it a try, PM me your address. but I won't be able to post it to you until Mon/tues next week as I'm offksi on the bike for the weekend, starting tomorrow lunchtime (cough cough working from home cough cough) in other news. my 4xv used to run at around 76 degrees, rising to 78-80 on an extended high speed thrash. used to rise quickly though once in traffic without the flow of air to the rad. Fan used to kick in between 104-108 degs and then switch off once it was back down to 97. A couple of mates who have 5JJ's say theirs are the same @ Hendo - 65 degs seems on the low side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted May 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 @ Dai1984 £47 for a fucking radiator cap? I thought buggery was illegal in this country. I've got a spare R1 radiator cap knocking around in my garage, it's from my old 4xv '99 reg but I very much doubt it will be any different to a newer one. you're welcome to it FOC if you wanna give it a try, PM me your address. but I won't be able to post it to you until Mon/tues next week as I'm offksi on the bike for the weekend, starting tomorrow lunchtime (cough cough working from home cough cough) in other news. my 4xv used to run at around 76 degrees, rising to 78-80 on an extended high speed thrash. used to rise quickly though once in traffic without the flow of air to the rad. Fan used to kick in between 104-108 degs and then switch off once it was back down to 97. A couple of mates who have 5JJ's say theirs are the same @ Hendo - 65 degs seems on the low side. Thanks for the offer but I've one on the way thanks to forum magic and Alex. I owe him a large drink! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Thought I had cured this but only took the bike out after fitting a new cap and its still overheating and spewing coolant. Will have to check tomorrow if the new to me cap is also working as it should. Gonna testing the thermostat and see if that's opening correctly. Ordered a sniff test kit to help my HGF paranoia too! As stated previously I've put a full system and ais plugs in it over winter. A collegeue has suggested it may be running lean due to only using a downloaded map from dynojet and not getting it mapped on a dyno which I intent to do once I've cured the overheating. Has anyone ever heard of this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
off road rob Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 My R1 is running around 82 degrees currently, and warms up nice and quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I noticed it was on 105 then it was 113 by the time I pulled over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spannerman Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 check the small pipes from the rad sounds like you have these two mixed up i know this from experience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 check the small pipes from the rad sounds like you have these two mixed up i know this from experience I think there's one small pipe either side and would be fairly hard to mix up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 When my VFR was running lean due to the wrong map it warmed up really quickly & got hot in traffic etc, but it never overheated, just spent about 70% of the time with the fan on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Might be worth trying a new thermostat as i said mate. Could be that its sticking due to age. Or... you could take it out and see if it runs cooler without one.. But id buy a new one myself.. Also.. make sure rad fins are clear (use compressed air to clean) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 I noticed it was on 105 then it was 113 by the time I pulled over. and was the fan working? at 113 it should have been on. also, I used to run my R1's coolant bottle on the 'minimum' level. If you have the coolant level on 'max' when cold it can overflow the bottle when the engine's really hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Fan comes on at 105 and usually cools it but not yesterday. I had the rad off and cleaned the exterior over winter. Also rinsed it out with water too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 What year is the bike matey? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 It's an 03 5pw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Ok, I should stay out of this then as I don't have any experience of these. The later ones could be persuaded to overheat for fun. They do like to run rich to keep the temp down. As for bleeding, the later engines like to go right over onto their pegs almost to get them bled properly. I'd have a go with a mate, engine running and the rad cap off. Worth checking the decavitation hose if there's one fitted, could be crimped or blocked. When Phase One first started messing with the '06 bike we couldn'y get water to circulate with it missing. Runs from the bottom right hand side metal water tube by the gearbox sprockt up to near the back of the water jacket on the thermostat housing. Small diameter hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spannerman Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 I think there's one small pipe either side and would be fairly hard to mix up? thats me told mine was a 4xv the pipes i was refering to are maybe 10-12mm and one if i remember goes to the expansion bottle i had them mixed up so it was pressurizing the bottle and dumping coolant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted June 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 thats me told mine was a 4xv the pipes i was refering to are maybe 10-12mm and one if i remember goes to the expansion bottle i had them mixed up so it was pressurizing the bottle and dumping coolant I guess the Xv and 5pw rads would be quite similar so it's one thing I will check this. Did it overheat a lot too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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