wil.co. Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 So over the winter I tore it down to do a few fixes, a few improvements etc. As far as the running of it goes, I got it down to engine in frame, injectors off, airbox off. I have put it back together, and it cranks, but doesnt start. I also, while the tank was off, cut the fuel lines and fitted quick break connections, but when I disconnect them, a small bit of petrol spills out, telling me it is passing through the connections... Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Suck=Fuel/Air Squeeze = Compression Bang = Spark Blow = Exhaust Check all connections (clutch,side stand,kill switch) bat volts 12.4+ if you can load test it then thats better. Should have a nice blue spark if not investigate why. make sure all connections are good and clean.. If it was working before you pulled it apart then you can rule out (compression). End can might have a mouse nest init for instance... Just go through bit by bit IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 It's fucked so ill take it off your hands for free? Equally unhelpful is that I've done similar and was bricking it but it started first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dai1984 Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Are the couplings fitted properly. Could be those drawing in air and we have similar with truck fuel unions. I guess if the throttle bodies are not fitted nice and tightly it wouldn't run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbrell Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Can you hear the fuel pump priming while it cycles through the tacho on the dash? The wires on the bottom of the tank are easy to snag or damage when taking it on or off. I'd probably check the big grey block connector for the injectors and each injector connection while I had the tank off. Always the dumbass one............ killswitch? (I've done it ) Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wil.co. Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Haha, not the killswitch. The big grey ones, the ones you link into for the PCIII?? those are fine. the battery is low, but I have a spare thats kept charged, and use that and its still the same.. Guess I will just keep checking things tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsp Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Are you getting 12v out of the starter relay? Check the tip over switch is fitted correctly too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wil.co. Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Yea, So I fixed it. I'm supposed to be an electronics technician, but I managed to miss off one of the earth attachments to the battery...connected it at 8am this morning, tried to start, an almighty bang backfire...whoops. cheers guys...now does anyone have any screen grommet nut things? I have a new screen to go on, but need new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Always the simple things that are overlooked hey.. Glad you got it going again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_H Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Screen bolt kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-SCREEN-BOLT-KIT-SCREEN-BLADE-SCREWS-/271187161961?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f2403b369 You can get anodised cheaper but you don't want that surely lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wil.co. Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Anodised? really? I obviously need to frequent this establishment more....um.....frequently, as you clearly do not know me, haha. Anodising things is saved for the americans stretched busa's and the streetfighters with the sticky uppy tail... I'm taking the WR out to a few bike shops seeing if anyone has any. Gonna use the stock bolts, until I get around to getting some Ti ones. Tart? Me? Surely not... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_H Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Anodised? really? I obviously need to frequent this establishment more....um.....frequently, as you clearly do not know me, haha. Anodising things is saved for the americans stretched busa's and the streetfighters with the sticky uppy tail... I'm taking the WR out to a few bike shops seeing if anyone has any. Gonna use the stock bolts, until I get around to getting some Ti ones. Tart? Me? Surely not... any luck? Might have a few of the rubber grommet nut things kicking about in the shed, how many do you need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wil.co. Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 Got that sorted, but now it is overheating like a buggery. Riding along at 40-50, and the temp continues to climb past its usual 70-78, up past 90, and if I slow down to 30, it climbs again, I have seen 108 on a 10 min journey about 20 mins ago. It isnt like its properly redders either... I have topped up the coolant, no leaks, made sure the overflow tank is on about upper......any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwakbiker Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 Airlock would be my guess if youve filled it too quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_H Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 Airlock would be my guess if youve filled it too quick This, was it on a rear paddock stand when you filled/bled it? That wouldn't have helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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