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Gearbox Bearing....they Say It's Special Due To A Pin, But Does The Pin Matter?!


burntout

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Having just got another gearbox delivered for the R6 project the main bearing on the output shaft is still showing too much play for my liking and so is going back to the sender (also the dogs are worse than the one I'm trying to sort). Not a problem I figure, I'll now order a new bearing for the problem output shaft to solve the issue....

Well, these appear to be classed as a "special part" by Yamaha and wider world. The bearing no. is B6305a5 which is basically a normal bearing with a pin in the outer case. This means it's double the price with a stupid lead in time.

Looks like this....

bearing-b6305a5-spec_medium9330630546-01_9c6f.jpg

I can, however, get the same bearing without the pin for £20 at a local bearing specialist. I even got to hold one in my hand...it's the same fucking thing without a cunting pin! Obviously the pin is there to prevent bearing spinning as it is secured only by the cases being torqued down on it and not by being a normal, press-fit.

Do any of you knowledgeable folks reckong one without the pin would be a problem?

Another option is to get a local engineering firm to pop a pin the outer race for a modest fee in a fraction of the time but I haven't got this far as confirming this yet.

All thoughts are welcome.

(I've put the feelers out for delivery time for the £41 (!) OE bearing in the mean time)

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I take it it's clamped between the crankcase halves ? in which case some studlock will hold it in place.Either that or get an engineer to fit a pin.This happens alot on 2 stroke main bearings.

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Yeah, would be clamped, I was thinking studlock or similar type stuff to prevent spin. That pin is only little and not solid so wouldn't take a huge amount of shear force, would be fair to assume the bearing is pretty unlikely to spin.

I'll see if I can tap a local engineer up tomorrow. I'd do it myself but dont have a pillar drill or bits which would deal with hardened steel like the cases. A mill would be best.

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Please, please, please use the proper bearing and do not attempt to studlock any other bearing. You've been incredibly lucky to catch a failing output shaft bearing before it did you some major damage, don't run the risk of wrecking a set of cases due to a spinning bearing or do even more damage/harm.

Are you even sure that an 'aftermarket' bearing would be the same high load/high speed bearing as the OEM one? I certainly wouldn't take the chance. I hope that the aftermarket bearing you were looking at at least had the clip groove...

If it's any help because I feel sorry for you, I can get you the OEM bearing for £35 posted to you but Yam UK don't have any stock, it would have to be backordered and that would take up to 5 days.

Without sounding patronising, you do have someone/a means of pressing the new bearing onto the shaft properly yes?

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Do not ever, ever, ever use loctite to secure a bearing outer race in a split housing.

Worst.Thing.Ever.

Particularly if the housing is subject to heating.

Pony up and buy the proper beaing.

It's not the money, more the time delay which led to looking for another solution but sound advice there.

Please, please, please use the proper bearing and do not attempt to studlock any other bearing. You've been incredibly lucky to catch a failing output shaft bearing before it did you some major damage, don't run the risk of wrecking a set of cases due to a spinning bearing or do even more damage/harm.

Are you even sure that an 'aftermarket' bearing would be the same high load/high speed bearing as the OEM one? I certainly wouldn't take the chance. I hope that the aftermarket bearing you were looking at at least had the clip groove...

If it's any help because I feel sorry for you, I can get you the OEM bearing for £35 posted to you but Yam UK don't have any stock, it would have to be backordered and that would take up to 5 days.

Without sounding patronising, you do have someone/a means of pressing the new bearing onto the shaft properly yes?

The "aftermarket one" was exactly the same less the pin, the groove, spec, n'all was the same and from the same manufacturer. There is nothing more special than the pin.

Dont worry about patronising, I've had worse! I will get the bearing pressed on by a local engineering firm (or my local stealer if need be). I've always driven them on by the inside race after freezing either the bearing (for wheel bearings) or heating cases but I'm not messing around with this one...failing that I thought I could just knock it on by working a large lump hammer around the outside race. That's alright isn't it? (Note: this is a joke!)

This is my track bike and so will be getting a fair amount of grief, hence why I've not settled for rushing it through so far and wasn't willing to ignore the issues which have got me this far. I've not dealt with this type of bearing so that is why I was clarifying it from you guys. Suffice to say it's been clarified!

PM sent regarding the bearing.

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Would like to add, good luck with bouncing a drill bit on and off a bearing housing using a pillar drill, should you ever aquire one.

Would not count as precision engineering.

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Would like to add, good luck with bouncing a drill bit on and off a bearing housing using a pillar drill, should you ever aquire one.

Would not count as precision engineering.

Dont worry - this isn't going to happen.

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£20 extra to make sure you don't run the risk of having to strip it all apart again? Easy decision.

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I can machine the bearing for you and fit a hardened pin for £20 :biggrinvk4:

Always worth going for the best when it comes to bearings.

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