H4 Buld Upgrade - Will Loom/generator Take It?

[toosmooth]

So, looking at going from a 2 x H4 set up to a single H4 in a small endurance style lamp.

I'd like to use an upgrade bulb 90/130W instead of 55/60W.

I know I'm losing a bulb, so overall we'd be about even on current (Generator will be ok then?)

What about the loom? would that kind of extra draw going down 1 set of wires cause me grief?

Also, what should I do about the other unused headlamp wiring; do I need to have a load or at least a circuit completed there, and if so, how?

I'm shit at electrics (if you've read the above, you'll already know that!) and I don't want to fry anything without thinking about it.

Moto- Sparkies; HELP!

cheers

Paul

what the f*** is a Buld? Obviously in the title, I meant bulb.

[Superdunc]

Should be fine, if your ok with the twin set-up. Bung a relay in the mix if your not sure.

Just leave the redundant headlamp wiring, just make sure the live is not going to touch anything.

[toosmooth]

Bung a relay in the mix if your not sure.

Sure, good idea.

What's a relay, and where should it go?!

(Ok, I know what a relay is, but where would I stick it to make it add extra safety in this set up?)

cheers Dunc!

[Superdunc]

A relay will take the load of the light switch, normally the weak link.

I've just typed a load of drivel about how you wire a relay, but I'm struggling to make any sense, so I'll hand that over to someone else.

[toosmooth]

Ok, so there's not currently a relay protecting the switch on the lighting circuit.

It would then be sensible to add one I guess.

Any further help, guidance on the issue welcome, I'm gonna do this thing! whoop! yeah!

[lorenzo]

You won't need a relay to protect the switch as your over all current draw is going to be the sameish as it was previously, so to answer the question 'where does the relay go', it stays in the shop.

As far as I can see, your lights are wired in parallel, so you don't need to bother with having the 2nd bulb in there, which is why your lights still work even when 1 bulb's broken. This is because it's a motorbike, not a 1970's christmas tree.

Bung a bit of tape around the un-used bulb holder and keep an eye on the wiring where it branches off to the new bulb, this is the only bit that's got an increased load on it. The other thing to look out for is the plastic on the actual headlight itself; the new bulb will run a good deal hotter and may cause stuff to melt.

Of course, you know the answer is a HID set up, don't you? The ones on my 675 are simply awesome, it's better than any car I've ever had.

[toosmooth]

You won't need a relay to protect the switch as your over all current draw is going to be the sameish as it was previously, so to answer the question 'where does the relay go', it stays in the shop.

As far as I can see, your lights are wired in parallel, so you don't need to bother with having the 2nd bulb in there, which is why your lights still work even when 1 bulb's broken. This is because it's a motorbike, not a 1970's christmas tree <this made me laugh out loud

Bung a bit of tape around the un-used bulb holder and keep an eye on the wiring where it branches off to the new bulb, this is the only bit that's got an increased load on it. The other thing to look out for is the plastic on the actual headlight itself; the new bulb will run a good deal hotter and may cause stuff to melt.

Of course, you know the answer is a HID set up, don't you? < Aha! - it probably is, but as they didn't have them at Suzuka in 1988 I'm sticking to period technology man!

Many thanks to all cleverer people than me who have reassured me I can have my tiny bright light. It's really appreciated.

[2moto]

I would very much second the recommendation for an HID setup if you want good light output from a single headlight. The kits are commonplace now and not that expensive. The downside is that they are not strictly legal but plenty of people fit them. Not sure if there are any MOT implications.

In terms of the current going through a headlight switch without a relay, it depends on how the twin light setup works. Is one a dipped beam and the other a main beam, or are they both dipped/main? In other words if the light switch handles two 55/60W bulbs now, you should be OK without a relay. If the twin lights already work as dipped/main beam combos, I would combine the wiring to the new, single bulb to maintain roughly the same current through each wire.

If you wanted to be really clever (or need another project) convert an "enduro style" headlight to LED. The new Cree XLamp MK-R chips are incredibly bright (1600 lumens at 15W) and will be equal to a car headlight if not brighter. The average light output of an H4 bulb is 1100-1500 lumens. The two tricks will be to keep the LED chip cool and direct the light into the right places, i.e. lens, etc.

[thefatman]

On the LED note has anyone tried something like these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-24W-LED-Work-Light-Driving-Fog-SPOT-beam-Lamp-Car-Truck-4WD-SUV-4x4-Off-road-/221142219396?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337d1a7a84

[lorenzo]

I would very much second the recommendation for an HID setup if you want good light output from a single headlight. The kits are commonplace now and not that expensive. The downside is that they are not strictly legal but plenty of people fit them. Not sure if there are any MOT implications.

They're only 'illegal' on main beam. My dipped HIDs stay on when the main comes on, the main is supplementary to the dip, it doesn't replace it, and to be honest, the dipped illuminates just as much as the main, but in clearer light. I'd say when I flick the main on I only get about 20% more light coverage.

In terms of the current going through a headlight switch without a relay, it depends on how the twin light setup works. Is one a dipped beam and the other a main beam, or are they both dipped/main? In other words if the light switch handles two 55/60W bulbs now, you should be OK without a relay.

That's the point of a 55/60w bulb isn't it? It's a twin filament, 55 on dipped, 60 on main, rather than one dipped the other main. The switch will be fine.

On the LED note has anyone tried something like these?

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item337d1a7a84

Not as headlights but I did buy 2 'caravan' type lights for inside the back of my van, each fitted about about 30 SMD type LEDs, thinking that there's no such thing as too bright when you're rooting about trying to find something in the back. I was wrong. With the flick of a switch I can blind anybody within a 50m radius instantly, including myself, and I have my eyelids shut. I've essentially fitted a death ray.

[2moto]

They're only 'illegal' on main beam.

That's the point of a 55/60w bulb isn't it? It's a twin filament, 55 on dipped, 60 on main, rather than one dipped the other main.

Are you sure? I know on cars HID lights need a self-leveling mechanism, maybe bikes don't as I can't see that working somehow. Are there any OEM fitments of HID lights on any bikes?

Sometimes twin lights have one being the dipped beam and the other the main beam. I know my Yam works like that as standard. In that case, you couldn't combine the wiring.