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R1 4Xv Suspension Setup


HPIV

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Put 1.0 or 0.95 in the front and a 8.5 or 9 on the back

What if he/she only weighs 50kg's?

The question itself is a can of worms.

The CORRECT answer is to start with the basics.

Set sag. dial in compression and rebound to suit the type of riding you do and the 'feel' you prefer.

This is really a trial and error thing that to be done properly requires seat time and keeping notes.

Suspension setting can be a complex or a simple thing to make or break a bikes ability.

It's worth investing some time and effort into it.

There is ample reading online to get anyone started down the knowledge path .

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I've got a couple of settings at home that I used as a base to start trying to set mine up.

That's not to say they'll work for you, but I found them a good start, ill post them up later on.

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Springs are the basics.

Look on racetech website. Setting sag with the wrong springs in is kind of pointless really.

So is stating a spring rate before knowing rider weight/sag.

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Plus at 15 years old and who knows how many miles the suspension could be (& probably is) shagged

Yep. Oil level/weight/airgap etc all affect the ride too.

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So you were wrong too then...

huh?? About what?

It is a complex subject and explaining it all here would take too much time.

I tried dumbing it down a bit without giving out bad info.

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Go to ketch (or one of the other well regarded suspension shops), give them £48 and let them set it up as well as it can be for you. They'll be able to tell you whats fucked or not at the same time and you can go from there.

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Send the forks off to be revalved/resprung and buy a decent rear shock. I had Maxton front and rear on my 4XV, did 80,000 miles on it and loved every minute. The standard rocking horse suspension was horrible.

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I agree the stock suspension is basically unrideable especially on track. Twiddling the adjusters doesnt help. Proper shock springs and valves will transform it.

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This is what I started with;

Front (from all the way in)

Drop the forks through the yokes so there's 7mm of fork showing above the top of the yoke.

5.5 clicks of preload

5 clicks compression

4 clicks rebound

Rear (from all the way in)

8 clicks preload

4 clicks compression

5 clicks rebound

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This is what I started with;

Front (from all the way in)

Drop the forks through the yokes so there's 7mm of fork showing above the top of the yoke.

5.5 clicks of preload

5 clicks compression

4 clicks rebound

Rear (from all the way in)

8 clicks preload

4 clicks compression

5 clicks rebound

thanks gsxr renegade, i will use these as a base setting.. and adjust as necessary.The PB settings worked really well on my old bikes.

Tyre pressures ?

to work with these settings obviously

34 psi front

36 psi rear

thanks again.

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It does depend to an extent what tyres you're using but on the road I generally use 33psi front and 36psi rear cold.

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thanks gsxr renegade, i will use these as a base setting.. and adjust as necessary.The PB settings worked really well on my old bikes.

Tyre pressures ?

to work with these settings obviously

34 psi front

36 psi rear

thanks again.

Yep, same settings I use. 34f 36r.

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Yep, same settings I use. 34f 36r.

that's what i guessed. thanks

It does depend to an extent what tyres you're using but on the road I generally use 33psi front and 36psi rear cold.

metzeler racetec k1 front k3 rear

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A K1 is wasted on the road IMO. Designed to work in a very narrow temperature (tyre and tarmac) band unlikely to found during normal road use. A road tyre will work much, much better more of the time. Each to their own though.

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