Marb Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Right, so I've made the decision to go racing next year. The amount of money I spend on fines every year is ridiculous, which can be better spent on doing something I've always wanted to do. Now I know my way around FZR 400's but I have never race/track prepped one before and would like some advice. What I have done so far. Stripped the entire thing. Going to be keeping the engine bone stock. No K&N, no fancy spannies, no jetting. Just stock. It runs well, and I want to have a proper handeling bike. I've got a R1 shock that'll go in the back and converted the front forks with FZR 1000 bottoms. Primarily allowing me to use gold spots and bigger disks. I'm still using the 3TJ front rim so tire sizes are the same. Which brings me to my first question, what sizes do you run. I run a 160 on my hybrid on a 3TJ rear rim, however it came from a racer who had a 150 on it. Does this handel better? Do I change gearing? On my 660 I went +2 -1 and it completly changed the bike. I loved it. Wandering if this will be a good change for the 3TJ. Then there is bodywork. At the moment there are three options. There is ofcourse Jap4Performance and two on Ebay. One form A16 and one from SDC Performance. The one from SDC looks like a quality bit of kit. Anyone have any experiences with them? It's going to be kept stock. Nothing fancy. It has too be cheap. At them moment I've calculated that i can barely scrape together the caash for a fresh set of tyres, pads, and a chain with sprockets. So it needs to be cheap and reliable. All tips are welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 I had a fairing off A16 (but for a zx7r) and it was pretty good as a replacement for stock, very solid and would probably crash well, but it wasn't especially light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 make sure you lockwire the sump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marb Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Crash well is a bigger plus then lightness atm, seeing as I'll probably be doing quite a bit of it. And lockwire won't be a problem, i've got a bit of a lockwire addiction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pants Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 drill out the oilways - BDK 70 odd quid http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/Bike1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kayla Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Probably go for easily available (and cheap to replace!) bodywork than fancy-dan expensive stuff. It's a race bike, it only has to work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marb Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 What do you reccomend Kayla? I'm not going to split the cases. Knowing me, they'll be apart for a long time being the OCD engine builder that I am. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 All good advice, as for gearing, this will depend on a couple of things - A. how seriously you're taking it and B. If you are taking it that seriously you'll have to address the gearing to suit each track. Ideally you want to be hitting 6th at full chat on the longest straight of the circuit, but the layout needs to be taken into account too, i.e is it tight/twisty or more open? Shorter gearing for tight and twisty and longer gearing for a more sweeping and open circuit. Can be a bit of a pain in the arse with chain length too because if you go too extreme (and without going all MotoGP on you) you'll be messing around with the wheelbase and in turn the handing/stability, which, on a nice light bike will be detected easier. So in a nutshell, if you don't want to get too involved with all that (and to be honest, it probably is just something else to unnecessarily worry about) you may just want to drop a tooth on the front and see how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marb Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 I live 30mins from Assen, so that'll be my "home" circuit and probably the one I'll be using the most. I'll drop a tooth on the front and see how it goes. As for brake lines. On my road FZR I have one line down to the right caliper and then a line over the fender to the left caliper. However, you never see race bikes with this setup. With good reason? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toosmooth Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 As for brake lines. On my road FZR I have one line down to the right caliper and then a line over the fender to the left caliper. However, you never see race bikes with this setup. With good reason? It's actually illegal to run them that way on a race bike in the UK - if you sever the main line you'll definitely have no brakes. So if you run 2 lines, but you only sever one, you may still have one caliper working. Personally I think the pressure would just piss out of the system from the leak, but maybe I'm wrong. It makes me feel better with 2 lines, so that's good enough! Assen as a home track - nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 For brake lines keep things tidy - look closely at any WSB/BSB/MotoGP bike and it will have a setup like this - the horizontal line runs along the bottom yoke. You don't necessarily need the L joint on the LH line. http://www.ebay.co.u...d=280866035745 See this WSB spec R1 - see the lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kayla Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 What do you reccomend Kayla? I'm not going to split the cases. Knowing me, they'll be apart for a long time being the OCD engine builder that I am. I used HC Racetech stuff on my track 4/6 because it was cheap and vaguely 3TJ shaped*, and it did end up crashing quite well as it turns out Anything other than easily replaceable (even if you end up using new shape R6, CBR600, Daytona 675 etc...) stuff is going to be less of a PITA than nice looking (but difficult to find at a reasonable cost) TZ or RS stuff. I think if you can crash-proof your bike as much as possible and try and limit the cost of replacing all of the bodywork should you need to, then you will be in a better frame of mind to try a little harder than you would if you were worried about the cost of fixing the bike. It's nice having a blingy bling bling race bike but it's no use if you're worried about the cost of rebuilding it! * some people have had bad service from them, I haven't, although their customer service is a little poor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marb Posted October 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Right, small question? How do you lockwire an oil filter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 There's a few options: MV do a nice plastic clamp that goes round the oil filter exactly for this purpose. Tighten the clamp around the filter, drill a hole in a nearby bolt head and lockwire from the bolt to clamp. You can wrap a jubilee clamp, lined with rubber, around the filter and then as above. Use a K&N oil filter as these have a hole in them for lockwiring. Well reminded Mike - been meaning to try and source one of these Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levo Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280436850026?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marb Posted October 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 Ah ha! Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marb Posted October 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 Right, another question. How does the fairing stay on the following two bikes (i believe both are P1 bikes) pivot? Is it just a nylon bush or is it more complicated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 It's just a push fit into the hole in the steering stem. It's just to support the screen and top 'ears' from moving around/vibrating too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilchicken0 Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 300mm brake discs would be lighter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marb Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 I know Boris. However, the FZR had been stood under a tarp outside for the best part of 2 years. So when i got it the original forks were deeply rusted, it had two warped disks and the calipers were seized beyond recognition. So, seeing as i had a complete FZR thou front end sitting there doing nothing, a set of brembo disks and a set of goldspots I figures it would be better to use these parts than too get the other parts restored. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marb Posted January 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Made a start today: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZXRRDave Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Already looks cleaner than mine As for the comments above, clamping the oil filter (either with a big jubbly clip or the clamp posted by Mike) is the traditional method, however I just really prefer the K&N route. The filter has a nut fixed to the end of it which is drilled for lockwire, making it easy to wire, as well as easy to remove. I can do the ZXR one without removing the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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