blow_away Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I've just got myself a ZX6R track bike Those that know me will have guessed that it's Andy's old bike, and my purchase of it will come as no real surprise as I've been ummimg and ahhing about it for months now. Its a 2007 model P7F, mostly standard except track plastics. The bike has no Power Commander, it's still on the standard exhaust and air filter and I don't feel it really needs a PC. However since having the R1 I have become addicted to riding with a quickshifter and I want one for the Ninja as well. I've looked at Translogic, HM, Cordona and Dynojet so far, they are all coming in at the £350 mark and this is stretching my budget a bit too far (especially as I have my eye on some Evotech levers as well ) So any comments or recommendations? Any other brands I should consider? It will have to be standard road pattern shift, i.e. 1 down 5 up as I'm too old and stupid to re-learn how to change gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo S2 Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I'd bite the bullet and budget for a pc3, then a dynojet q/s. will work out cheaper in the long run!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdunc Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Techtronics FTW [media=] Don't think that will improve Al's trackday experience Mille Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo S2 Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Techtronics FTW I'm obviously not gonna disagree, but are they even better if you have a pc fitted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootall Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Modded sidestand switch or cordona horn button job (from when quickshifters were banned in supersport) Both budget options,neither as good as a pc3 based one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
750 Gixxer Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Over on gixerjunkies, some guys have have bought SP quickshifters (search ebay) and been recommending them to others. Don't have any experience with them myself though. They are also a fair bit cheaper than your dynojet, bazzaz, hm so it might be worth to take a look...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 DJ shifters that plug into PCIII's or PCV's work on the fuelling side of things as that's what the PCIII or PCV is connected to. A 'proper' stand alone shifter is worth spending the money on be abuse it works on the ignition, which is far smoother and controllable. They're rpm adaptive along with plenty of other options/features. In my experience of fitting/using many if not virtually all models of 'shifters, Cordona and HM are choice in that order. Bazzazz seem to work best on Suzuki's I've fitted them too, while Translogic are also nice but the overall features/performance of the Cordona make them hard to beat. Modded sidestand switch systems are generally terrible I've found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootall Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Have you used/fitted any of the cordona push button ones? Sold a few and got good feedback but not used one myself. Quality kit tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcaztls Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Only the one. In short, yes it worked and did its job better than I expected, but in reality I'd soon get really tired of having to push the button versus a conventional sensor. Plus I think it's not as fast and requires that bit of extra concentration which on track especially could be better used elsewhere if you don't have much of it in the first place like me. If that's all the rules of your race series allow then furry muff, but for road and other track use, I'd splash the cash needed for the pressure sensor Cordona. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomfoolery Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Couldn't you simply fit the push button down on the gear lever assembly somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdunc Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Couldn't you simply fit the push button down on the gear lever assembly somewhere? My SXV has pretty much that , a little micro switch fitted onto a recess in the bottom of the gear change peg. The switch sends a signal to timer box which cuts the spark. The strain guage type are much more reliable though and don't tend to be triggered by vibrations when you don't want it to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Right, what you need is one of these: Annitori RL HM Quickshifter made by HM - basically a HM quickshifter without the wide adjustibility - strain gauge shifter with x3 settings for cut out time, plugged straight into the coil packs. At an awesome price as well, easily the cheapest quickshifter I've ver seen, had to come from the states mind.... You definately need a QS with no moving parts - so strain gauge is the way to go for reliability. email Steve Larson: infoATannitori.com I've bought it through the 600rr.net forum though as I got a $20 discount through Biohazard Cycles (have to be a long term member of the forum through). Mine worked out to £210.00 shipped. If you buy it direct from Annitori it's $279.95 plus shipping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 And then as it's for a track bike - do this to it..... After speaking with HM's tech dept, they've told me a lot of race teams fit connectors in-line on their quickshifters. It's certainly possible to do, and not all that difficult, with the correct tools and connectors. Right, herein lies the QS problem: The shift sensor, when bolted into the shift rod is not able to be disconnected from the bike, meaning if you need to remove the shift rod in a hurry, it's not possible without dismantling the rod or removing the entire quickshifter assembly: See how there is only one wire from the unit to the sensor? Here are the connectors I plan on using, Binder 712's as recommended by millemille, they accept the tiniest gauge of wire which is what we are working with here. They lock shut via a thread, fully waterproof, and very robust. Firstly, decide where you want your connector to sit in-line. Then cut the wire with sharp, quality snips. No turning back now! Inside there are 2 tiny gauge wires, surrounded by a mesh sheathing. This will have to be removed in order to expose the wires. Tidy up with a little heatshrink: *IMPORTANT* Do NOT forget to thread the locknut and base over the wire BEFORE soldering the terminals. Solder the terminals, they are numbered, make a note of which colour goes to which terminal, this is also VERY important. Tidy up with a little more heatshrink - this will also support the soldered joint, (again, as millemille recommended...) Rebuild the connector bodies. And job done! For extra cock waving points, use a labelling machine and clear heatshrink to ID tag the connectors. Time: 45mins. It's a simple enough job, but VERY fiddly, the terminals are about 1mm in diameter and the wires are barely visable! I am yet to test this as I only did it this evening, but I am 110% positive it will work perfectly, HM advised me that it would. This should be the same process for anyone running any model of HM quickshifter. Check with HM first before you go hacking at wires. HM did tell me that they can put a connector in-line for you, but it won't be cheap. I imagine they probably use military spec Deutsch connectors which'll bump up the cost. These are perfectly adequate though. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redgecko Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 The Bazzaz QS4 stand alone works really well I think, adjustable kill times and should be around 250. Love mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blow_away Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Zombie thread alert I've ordered the Annitori RL, currently waiting for it to land on this side of the pond, no doubt with a big bill from HMCE. Cibbersicks, I'm looking for the Binder 712 connectors. I've found a couple of suppliers through the "Trick Connectors" thread, but I'm unsure which is the right part number to use as I don't know the AWG size of the wire. Can you remember which ones you used? The link below has a PDF of the Binder 712 catalogue. Sorry to be a pain in the arse. BTW, Paul at Annitori was asking after you (and your bike!), you obviously left an impression on him. I told him that I was going to commandeer you to work on all the scabby bikes in my workshop, he said to send you Stateside once you had finished http://www.northern-connectors.co.uk/product_binder-712-series-subminiature-circular-connectors_129 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Hey Al, you'll like the RL it's good! There are only 2 wires, so you only want a 2 contact connector. The part nos arrrreeee: Male: 9904010002 Female: 9904020002 Let me know how you get on with it Yeah Paul was very pleasant to deal with, he agreed with me iirc that he didn't know why a connector wasn't fitted in the first place! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blow_away Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Well, I got this test fitted now, the kit itself is a piece of piss to install and set up. I opted not to have a shift rod as I had a few in the mancave, I am still fiddling with the installation of the rod to get the best compromise with the position of the strain gauge and as much height adjustability. Just a quickie though, the strain gauge is quite bulky, I had to ditch the sidestand to get the positioning right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Just a quickie though, the strain gauge is quite bulky, I had to ditch the sidestand to get the positioning right. Did you just thread the actual shifter part onto the end of the shift rod? To save the hassle and length extension I cut a section out of the shift rod, turned it down and cut a screw thread onto each end. That way you don't lose any length on the rod and you can make it as short as you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blow_away Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 I put it in middle like you did, but I still couldn't find enough space to clear the side stand mount. The shift rod runs really close to it with the SES rearsets. "Bulky" is the wrong word, but I'm too much of an idiot to find the right word. No sidestand is a real PITA though, this bike has nothing to hold on to when you drop it off the paddock stand, and I have to move it twice a day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 No sidestand is a real PITA though, this bike has nothing to hold on to when you drop it off the paddock stand, and I have to move it twice a day! there is another way.... I use an MX prop stand, bought it off ebay for about £15. it's one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-MX-DRC-MOTOCROSS-ENDURO-BIKE-TRIANGLE-SIDE-STAND-/300738074915?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item460562d923 Had to get the ally sleeve shaved down slightly to make a perfect fit into the rear wheel spindle. Pop mx stand in rear spindle, either end will do I guess depending on your bike, take bike off paddock stand, lean bike over on MX stand. mine in the k6 holds it just off vertical. Perfect enough to get the bike on/off the rear paddock stand without brown trouser moments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blow_away Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Cheers Jim I've got a stand I made yonks ago, which is basically a triangle of tubes with another tube welded at 90 degrees at the apex, which slides over the footrest. It's not quite tall enough for the 6 though, so off to ebay I go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilSpike Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 I may well be browsing ebay for one of these when I'm next back at work. Did you put in the connector too Al? Might be shopping for rearsets too, depending upon how I get on at Cartegena... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blow_away Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 I bought the connectors but not fitted them yet. I want to run the bike with the shifter on first before cutting the wires. I've run it on the paddock stand, but I want to check it under load first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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