Jump to content

Cbr 929 Rry Front End Prob


boris

Recommended Posts

hello i done my first track day of the year yesterday. after managing to get a penske shock in the back and sort a few niggly bits over winter i still have a prob! only this tiome its come back with avengance. if i leave it late to brake which of corse is the name of the game i get a almost abs sensation through the lever and i can hear what sounds like the mudguard chattering against the fairing and theres almost crashable vibration!

the forks still have about 2 inches of clearance before they bottom out so its not that.

if i squeeze the brake early and slowly slow down the probs not there. its soooo fustrating as i cant get below a 58 second brands indy and i desperately want to but im having to slow down ages before the corner and everyone overtakes me going into the corner then i get stuck behind them as i want to go fater in the corner and corner exit!

any help or suggestions will be greatly recieved!

i was thinking maybe a sticky piston in the caliper and the pad is rattling maybe???? just a guess?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just to add the disks arent warped as its fine when progressively squeezing the lever and also i have got goodridge braided lines direct to each caliper not the joined original setup

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its like a chattering or skipping try lowering your compression on the forks.

If your compression is set to high the forks wont be able to react as quick and you get a skipping sensation on the front wheel.Also your braking WILL be affected as your tyre will not be in contact with the road surface all the time.

IMO it would give you the sensation you are describing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes skipping sounds about right! right ill check that next time by lowering it a tad each session and see if it eradicates it.

just looked at caliper pistons and all are quite clean and look ok but one pad out of the four is substantially lower than the rest.

id say one is 2mm and the rest have about 4mm left on them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello sorry me again i tried to turn the compression adjusters to the softer side but they are basically only one turn in anyway!

if i cannot go any softer would you think this was still the prob or?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello sorry me again i tried to turn the compression adjusters to the softer side but they are basically only one turn in anyway!

if i cannot go any softer would you think this was still the prob or?

You have turned the correct one havent you. :eusa_think:

Rebound & preload are at the top of your fork

Compression is at the bottom.

Lets make sure we have this correct first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

budgetboy you are the man! be prepared to hear from me when i totally fuck up my fork refresh!!!!

Why thankyou kind sir.. lol

Send them to me and i will do them for you for not much.. B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes the one at the bottom is correct! i checked like three times in my haynes and the actual honda owners manual to check i was getting it right!

could they be broken inside the fork or something?

ive been emailing a chap about a r1 so i may be outing the blade in a few weeks after my two td in the next couple of weeks anyway but would like to sort it before these two just to see what i can do on her before she goes you see.

cheers for ansering the thread!!!! am clueless when it comes to suspension!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok let's start from scratch as it is easier.

Can you tell me what you have your settings at currently.

Preload (rings out)(out of how many)

Damping (how many clicks out of how many)

Compression (clicks out)(out of how many)

Something does not add up to me.You are not using 80-90% of your forks travel (2 inches left you said) so that points to compression/preload,but it could also mean your fork springs/oil are modified.

And if your preload is set to much this can also have an affect on your suspension.

So this is what i suggest:-

Set everything to base levels (factory)

Set up your rider & static sag

Put a cable tie around your front fork stanchion

Go for a ride as normal.

Check the cable tie to see how much travel you have left (you want 80-90% of travel use)

NOTE:-By REDUCING your preload will give you more travel on your forks.

Once you get to 80-90% of travel, leave the preload alone.

Then you can move onto your damping (its a personal setting to you imo, one click at a time till you are happy)

once you have that sorted you can advance onto Compression.Too soft and the bike will nose dive,too hard and it wont turn in and you will on the grass.

Suspension is a ONE CLICK at a time thing, not guess work IMO. Your tyres will tell you lots as well.

One thing i will also point out is most bikes are not fitted with the correct springs for the riders weight.But by doing all of the above should in theory give you a reasonable setting.

Hope that helps.If you need any more advice ask away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow thats in depth stuff! proper helpfull too. ill get in the garage the weekend but will have to wait until the 16th to test it out as its track only at the minute and no insurance on her now.

will keep posted on what i find. before i fitted a penske shock i had the bike set up for my weight and intended use and it transformed it to something i could actually ride but that was for fast road riding now im on track its not happy. hopefully a suspension expert will be at brands in a few days time so i can get it setup and i should know by then wether im keeping it or not too.#

thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a problem mate.

I can tell you that after you fitted the new shock you should have had it all set up again.

When i rebuild a front fork leg i ALWAYS take not of what the current settings are and write them down.After the fork is rebuilt is is reset to what it was when it came in.this way it feels as near to what it did when it was taken off.So maybe one click either way to compensate for the new oil,but all should be good.

But what you have done is taken an old shock off and replaced it with a new one.For all you know the ride hight could be altered affecting the geometry/handling on your bike.

My advice to you when/if you get this other new bike is have the forks and rear spring set to YOUR weight.I can't do refills on rear shocks yet as i don't yet have the tool (Costs £1000) but i can alter the spring.

Once you have these set the rest will be dialing it all in.Start at the factory settings and go from there.Also learn to read what your tyre is telling you. Cold tear,hot tear,compression problems or other.. Also note that SOME tyre's react to the pressure change within the tyre.Michellins are sensitive to 1/2lb pressure (so im told)

Anyhow im rambling now.. Im sure the suspension bloke at brands will help you out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps the Penske at the rear is highlighting the inadequacies of the (presumably stock) forks?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps the Penske at the rear is highlighting the inadequacies of the (presumably stock) forks?

It could be mate, but IMO the fact that he is not using 80-90% of the front forks compression stoke tells me thats where i would start.(They must be hard imo)He want's to leave about 10mm of travel left in the forks to allow for emergencies.

Diagnosis over the Internet will always be difficult,but alas we can try..He needs to start with the sags all over again and go from there.I would say the rear sag is more than likely wrong and the front is set to hard (comp or Preload) and this is why he is getting problems.But i would have to agree with you and say the fronts probably have stock springs in them.Im sure he will get it sorted,as i said he only has to ask. :biggrinvk4:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i measured the gap and i have an inch and a 1/4 left of travel.yes the forks are totally standard and yes the shock is slightly taller than the last! well about 15mm longer so quite a bit really. ill go back to tagg racing and get a base setup done me thinks and get him to point out things to tweak on track and if it still pursists i think the new bikes a drfinate as im fairly bored of the 929 now anyway! not that my talent putshines the bike though!ha ha.

cheers for all ur help guys and ill post up what happens on my next track day! got one on 16th and 19th so only like a week away now!yay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm no expert on suspension, but as stock, the forks on a 929 are fairly under-sprung and I'd be surprised if your average sized brit (12-13 stone perhaps) wasn't using up most of the fork travel, especially if it's on track.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i measured the gap and i have an inch and a 1/4 left of travel.yes the forks are totally standard and yes the shock is slightly taller than the last! well about 15mm longer so quite a bit really. ill go back to tagg racing and get a base setup done me thinks and get him to point out things to tweak on track and if it still pursists i think the new bikes a drfinate as im fairly bored of the 929 now anyway! not that my talent putshines the bike though!ha ha.

cheers for all ur help guys and ill post up what happens on my next track day! got one on 16th and 19th so only like a week away now!yay

An inch and 1/4? You do know that forks will not completely go all the way down on the USD fork dont you?

From the dust seal on your fork leg measure about 3 inch's down towards your fork bottom.That will be all of your travel. You should have 1inch and a bit left.

You can clearly see on this pic where the forks stop on the stanchion.(At the 3 inch mark) You want it to be stopping about 2.5 inch MAX approx 67.5mm (90% travel) A pic below to give you an idea of what i mean.(best i could find)

If you had set up your static and rider sag after you had the new rear shock fitted you problem would not be this bad.After you have said all that i now think your forks are bottoming out and you have no travel left in your forks..So it chatters,Harsh as well.

Up rate springs based on your weight

Up rate rear spring based on your weight

Set everything at factory

Set up rider/static sag

Go for a spin and dial it all in.Take note of your tyre wear..This can tell you what problems you have in the suspension.Good luck

IMG00308-20120305-1711.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

very nice! ive just bought the r1!ha ha

so your work is not in vain as a base setup is now on the cards when i pick that up tomorrow!

very excited! havent got a side stand for it yet so going to have to employ a paddock bitch to help me when i come back in from track day sessions me think! ha ha

cheers for everyones help! this forum and the people in it are the dags doodahs!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...