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Petrol Coming Out Of The Overflow....carbs Related


tanuki

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All of a sudden this morning there was petrol pissing out from under the bike.

Came home thinking I was going to find a split hose I discovered that it pisses out of the overflow right on the bottom of the carb.

Now I really have fuck all Knowledge about carbs apart from the work on some kind of black magic, and being around bike forums long enough the words 'sticky float' spring to mind.

I'm guessing the carb will need to come off and be stripped and cleaned do I need to replace any seals or gaskets or do I use my wisdom?

And does sticky float sou d about right?

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I'd go with a sticky float or a tiny bit of crap stuck on the float needle.

First thing to try is a tap on the float bowl with the back of a screwdriver (not too hard) can sometimes sort it

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Carb was taken off today and cleaned, other than a bit of varnish in the float bowl it was pretty clean.

Put it back on and it's still pissing fuel out????

I have a manual for a KLX but it not my exact model, it says the float height should be 17mm but I measured mine today at 27mm.

Confused?

Mines a 99 in case anyone happens to know what the float height should be.

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I had this with a set of RVF carbs mate, checked float heights, changed float needles and it still did it. Turned out the needle valve seat was worn.

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My Benly did this, was stripped every weekend while I tried (and failed) to understand the magic that is carburation. My float was fucked (sorted it with a blob of solder!) but my needle valve was very worn, so I just persevred with it until the thing died.

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I have a manual for a KLX but it not my exact model, it says the float height should be 17mm but I measured mine today at 27mm.

27mm sounds too much, how was this measured? I think it should be measured with the carb upside down, from the float arm to the float bowl mating face.

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Carb was taken off today and cleaned, other than a bit of varnish in the float bowl it was pretty clean.

Put it back on and it's still pissing fuel out????

I have a manual for a KLX but it not my exact model, it says the float height should be 17mm but I measured mine today at 27mm.

Confused?

Mines a 99 in case anyone happens to know what the float height should be.

KLX 250?? theres a couple klx 250 (H2) & KLX 250 (J2/4) D-tracker.let me know what it is and i will give you the exact settings.

if it is either the float height is the same ,,,it's 17mm +/- 2mm

The jets are different so let me know matey..

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I wouldn't alter the float height if it was ok before fuel started leaking-look at the fuel cutoff valve seat for wear or a foreign object.Also check your floats have no leaks by immersing them totally in petrol and looking for air bubbles or fuel inside them.

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KLX 250?? theres a couple klx 250 (H2) & KLX 250 (J2/4) D-tracker.let me know what it is and i will give you the exact settings.

if it is either the float height is the same ,,,it's 17mm +/- 2mm

The jets are different so let me know matey..

It's a 99 Dtracker J2 I think.

It's really sounding like its the little cut off valve thing that's fucked, would something like that be in a service kit?

Can you even buy a service kit?

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Oh and for what it's worth if you hold the carb like its on the bike you have to lift the float almost all the way up before you see the little plunger thing move.

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I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination but on srads, when this kind of thing happens, it's usually a stuck float, in conjunction with a faulty petcock.

Don't know if a klx has one....

Also, might wanna check the engine is not hydrolocked

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Ok,

its a Keihin carb CVK 34

main jet 120

idle jet 35

pilot is 2 turns out

float level 17mm +/- 2mm

And yes you should be able to get a service kit for it.

The plunger thing you refer to is the fuel inlet needle valve.When you lift the float up it should make this valve close the fuel flow,hence shut off the fuel. It sounds like you may need to bend the tab a bit so it closes the flow when the float reaches its highest point.

have a look at the needle valve as these can also wear out. It should look like a point wit no ridges on it.If it has ridges you need a new one.

Hope that helps

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pwk_float1.jpg

Bit of a visual for you...

The black pointed thing is the tip...No grooves in this or you must replace.

The Valve must spring back when you push it in and let go, if not you need a new one

The tab you can alter a little to make the float assy close properly.

edit:- When you have the carb upside down the TAB should touch the VALVE and press on it.This will shut the fuel off.

If it was on the bike the fuel would push the float up and press on the tab, to press the valve to push the needle valve to close.And stop fuel flow..

Hope that sorta helps anyhow.

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The Valve must spring back when you push it in and let go, if not you need a new one

Before ordering a new one 1st try leaving it overnight in carb cleaner, worked for me when I had a sticky valve

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The valve is springing back ok.

Need to check the state of the black pointy thing and I guess it's seat tomorrow, and double check the float height.

Anyone shed any light on this as Honda and Kawasaki say to do it 2 different ways.

Also any idea where to buy a service kit google is showing nothing and I've found a picture of the kit but the place is American?

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Thanks for all of your help with this turns out there were 2 of the tinyest pieces of crap on the needle valve seat...so small you needed a magnifying glass to see them but big enough to stop it seating properly.

Thanks again I learned a fair bit.

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I learned a fair bit.

When you're starting with nothing, even a little matters a lot...

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