Phil Norton Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 The temp gauge on the R1 is playing up a bit and seems to be erratic. I'm a bit worried that at some point it's going to cause an overheating issue. I've changed the temp sender for a new one, with no success, so presumably it must be the receiver in the clocks. It still reads ok(ish), but leaps about by a few degrees. Anyone got any ideas on how to go forward with this? Presumably I can remove the sender from the bike and drop it in some boiling water whilst still wired in and see what reading I get to confirm it's the receiver? Is it then possible to get the receiver in the clocks changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 The temp gauge on the R1 is playing up a bit and seems to be erratic. I'm a bit worried that at some point it's going to cause an overheating issue. I've changed the temp sender for a new one, with no success, so presumably it must be the receiver in the clocks. It still reads ok(ish), but leaps about by a few degrees. Anyone got any ideas on how to go forward with this? Presumably I can remove the sender from the bike and drop it in some boiling water whilst still wired in and see what reading I get to confirm it's the receiver? Is it then possible to get the receiver in the clocks changed? Phil, if it just leaps about by a few degrees, then it's not really a major issue? provided the fan works ok then it's not going to cause an overheating problem. have you checked the fan is coming on/switching off as it should? and yes in theory you could removed the sender from the rad and drop it in some boiling water to check it. and is is a 4xv or a 5JJ, by the way? one of the differences between the two models is how the temp sender and fan switch work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 The temp gauge on the R1 is playing up a bit and seems to be erratic. I'm a bit worried that at some point it's going to cause an overheating issue. I've changed the temp sender for a new one, with no success, so presumably it must be the receiver in the clocks. It still reads ok(ish), but leaps about by a few degrees. Anyone got any ideas on how to go forward with this? Presumably I can remove the sender from the bike and drop it in some boiling water whilst still wired in and see what reading I get to confirm it's the receiver? Is it then possible to get the receiver in the clocks changed? If it’s a 4xv, then I wouldn’t worry about it, mine does the same. If I’m stuck in traffic it’ll read, say 89 degrees for about 15-30 seconds, then shoot up to 93 and then do the same up to 96. My fan switch is broken as well though, so I’ve just wired in a toggle switch to control the fan manually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 If it’s a 4xv, then I wouldn’t worry about it, mine does the same. If I’m stuck in traffic it’ll read, say 89 degrees for about 15-30 seconds, then shoot up to 93 and then do the same up to 96. My fan switch is broken as well though, so I’ve just wired in a toggle switch to control the fan manually. yeah mine used to move about by the odd degree as well I have a spare fan switch and temp sender for a 4xv knocking around, I came across them [no, not like that] when looking through the garage the other day. They're a few years old but were both in good working order when last used. free to a good home, if anyone wants them let me know.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Norton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Phil, if it just leaps about by a few degrees, then it's not really a major issue? provided the fan works ok then it's not going to cause an overheating problem. have you checked the fan is coming on/switching off as it should? and yes in theory you could removed the sender from the rad and drop it in some boiling water to check it. and is is a 4xv or a 5JJ, by the way? one of the differences between the two models is how the temp sender and fan switch work... It's probably me being paranoid and yes it does seem to read pretty much ok, although there's no real way of knowing. The fan does come on at the correct temp on the gauge too. I'm just being a bit twitchy because I killed an engine last year (not from overheating, from being a twat and not letting it warm up enough). Just out of interest, what would happen if it did overheat too much? Warped head and failed head gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Well then if the fan comes on at the right temperature (and presumably the oil coolant temp warning light* is working ok) then it shouldn't overheat. Mine used to run along normally at between 73-75 degrees, up to about 78-80 on a sustained high speed / high revs run. It was always fine when moving along but the temp would rise quickly once stopped or in traffic. From memory, on my 4xv the fan didn't cut in until the temperature was between 104-108 degrees (and cut out again when it had dropped back to 96-97 deg) And the temperature warning light won't come on until it hits about 117 degrees. No idea what happens if it actually overheats but I guess those are likely results *this is combined with the oil level warning light and should illuminate as a test for a few seconds when the ignition is first switched on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Norton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 That's interesting that you say that yours seems to run in the mid 70s. Mine generally seems to show mid to high 60s, bit higher on a fast run. If mine is actually running at the same temps as yours, then it would mean by the time the fan cuts in I'm getting dangerously close to overheating. I may just buy a 2nd hand set of clocks from Ebay, just to fit them for a quick run to see what they read. If they are within a couple of degrees of it's normal running temp then I'll just switch them back again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Interesting... I have two mates with 5JJ model R1's and they ran at similar temperatures too mine, ie early to mid 70's rising to late 70's on a thrash. However that doesn't mean yours is reading wrong - it might just be that yours runs cooler? presumably if you've changed the temp sender recently then it's also got fresh coolant in it? However before you head off to ebay, I have a spare set of clocks that I would be happy to loan to you to test, if you want? I also have a spare front loom you could borrow so you don't have to piss about getting to the back of yours to disconnect them. I see you're in Huntington you're welcome to pop down to sunny st Albans and we can try them out - alternatively PM me your details I'll get 'em in the post to you Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Norton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 That's a brilliant offer, really appreciated. Mines a 5JJ not 4XV though, think the clocks are different? You're right that it has got pretty fresh coolant in it, so that may well be a factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Ah well in that case I don't think I can help you Phil, sorry mate the temp sender / fan switch / front loom is one of the few differences between the 4xv and 5JJ models, I'm afraid. On the 4xv there's a separate temp sender and fan switch mounted in the radiator. On the 5JJ they were combined into one thermo unit that does both functions. As a result the front loom and clocks are different (so are the headlight relays and wiring, IIRC) Eg I once bought a 5JJ front loom by mistake and the clocks worked fine apart from the temperature gauge, which just showed 'LO' all the time. So I guess you really need some 5JJ clocks and/or front loom to check yours. Or buy a 4xv......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Norton Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Appreciate the offer though, many thanks anyway. I'm not gonna be riding it too much over the next couple of months anyway, so will try and wait for some cheap clocks to come up on Ebay. Then I can hopefully sell them on again for no loss. It's either that or a thermometer from work and a bowl of water for the sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 Re the slight difference in running temp, bear in mind fuelling makes a big difference: my old vfrc45 was always about 5 degrees lower after I got the fuelling sorted. One bike being slightly lean, the other a bit rich, that'll account for the difference of a handful of degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Norton Posted December 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 Re the slight difference in running temp, bear in mind fuelling makes a big difference: my old vfrc45 was always about 5 degrees lower after I got the fuelling sorted. One bike being slightly lean, the other a bit rich, that'll account for the difference of a handful of degrees. That's a good point, although I don't think it's running richer than a normal bike. Another angle to consider though and deffo worth looking at. Good excuse to get it on a dyno if nothing else! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leighio Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Phil have you given consideration to the thermostat in that it could be sticking in certain position? Also what about the radiator, is the thermo switch mounted on it or the engine. If the radiator then it could be not allowing the correct flow through thus sudden temp changes. Only two other things it could be, and I cannot remember if your temp thats is digital or analog. If its analog it could be sticking the mechanicals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.