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Chain Adjustment 2


BUSABOY

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I have just replaced the chain, front and rear sprockets on my hayabusa. The chain is correctly aligned - I used a dot lazer alignment tool to check chain alignment. The problem I have is that that chain now runs tight then very slack, I noticed this with he old chain which did the same thing so I thought that the chain needed replacing. Does anyone have any ideas why this should be happening? The chain is a DID ZVM 530.

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I have just replaced the chain, front and rear sprockets on my hayabusa. The chain is correctly aligned - I used a dot lazer alignment tool to check chain alignment. The problem I have is that that chain now runs tight then very slack, I noticed this with he old chain which did the same thing so I thought that the chain needed replacing. Does anyone have any ideas why this should be happening? The chain is a DID ZVM 530.

All chains have a tight spot, so when carrying out your adjustment you always do it where the chain is tightest on the bottom run.

It is impossible for a chain to maintain a 25-30mm slack throughout its run.

I always adjust mine on the tight spot but set it a bit slacker at about 30-40mm to keep some stress off the drive & wheel bearings & help the suspension move through its travel without any strain. It is a habit from my motocross days. :icon_salut:

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All chains have a tight spot, so when carrying out your adjustment you always do it where the chain is tightest on the bottom run.

It is impossible for a chain to maintain a 25-30mm slack throughout its run.

I always adjust mine on the tight spot but set it a bit slacker at about 30-40mm to keep some stress off the drive & wheel bearings & help the suspension move through its travel without any strain. It is a habit from my motocross days. :icon_salut:

Yes. this is how I set it up, but it goes to very slack, is there anything else that I need to check? Is this normal for hayabusa's due to the long chain run? It's 114 links as I have increased the number of teeth to 42 from 40 on the rear sprocket?

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New chains need a little time to settle in - maybe it's that ???

^^^ This. Set it up as good as you can go for a ride 5-10 miles, then put lube on your chain.Remember to lube from the inside,not spray it on the top.Check it again after 100 miles and adjust again. Its new and needs to break in mate. :thumbsup:

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^^^ This. Set it up as good as you can go for a ride 5-10 miles, then put lube on your chain.Remember to lube from the inside,not spray it on the top.Check it again after 100 miles and adjust again. Its new and needs to break in mate. :thumbsup:

Ok thanks for the replys I will put some miles on the chain and re adjust, its set up Ok so I can't think its anything else. :thumbsup:

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Put the bike on a paddock stand , make a note of where the tight spot is relative to rear wheel position ( look at the valve ) spin the wheel 360 deg , if the tight spot is in the same place it points to the rear sprocket mounting , loosen rear sprocket bolts 1/2 turn stick a bit of old rag between the chain and sprocket and rotate the rear wheel by hand to move the sprocket position slightly , remove rag and check , piss about until satisfied then re-torque rear sprocket nuts

also on any big bike it's worth checking the condition of the sprocket carrier bearing

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Would I be right in saying also to check the cush drive for wear?

Cheers for the advice.No tight spots on the chain on assembly, used DID chain tool and the cush drive is new, so there is no wear. Will check that Talon sprocket is torqued uniformly to Dymags specification and adjust chain again over the weekend. The sprocket carrier bearing is also new, but will check if the tolerances are correct at manufacture. :thumbsup:

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