Boozybloke Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 As the title says; the brake light's not working off the front lever, though it does work off the rear brake. I was going to whip the connector to the lever switch off and check connection with a multimeter, but other than that I don't have much of a clue. If it's not the switch in the lever, am I going to have to go all the way down the wires looking for breaks, and if so how do I do this? Like I said, I'm a complete novice when it comes to fixing things, so if this is a stupid question, don't take the piss too much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossm Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Probably just the brake light switch, pretty cheap and easy to swap round (don't know what year or model yours is but I doubt they (Suzuki) have changed them over the years) http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Suzuki/GSXR_750_WP/93/picture/Brake_Light_Switch_-_Front/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6Jon Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Now I am no sparky, so if this burns your house down I will deny all knowledge OK ? My '96 750 has two wires into the switch on the lever, if you pull them off the connectors and bridge the plugs the light will come on if it is the switch at fault ! The light won't come on if its the wires at fault ! And if it is something else entirely your house will burn down How are you at running from burning buildings these days by the way (Only joking, i just checked it on mine) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boozybloke Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Hopefully it's just as simple as that, cos I hate bike wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 As others have said it should like a faulty switch. Check the continuity with your multimeter on the switch & wires. My guess is it will be the switch.. Cheap enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boozybloke Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Now I am no sparky, so if this burns your house down I will deny all knowledge OK ? My '96 750 has two wires into the switch on the lever, if you pull them off the connectors and bridge the plugs the light will come on if it is the switch at fault ! The light won't come on if its the wires at fault ! And if it is something else entirely your house will burn down How are you at running from burning buildings these days by the way (Only joking, i just checked it on mine) Ahh, took the plug off last night and nothing from the light so looks like it probably is the wiring then. Arse I can walk from burning buildings quite well, don't know about running though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenny Pryde Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Just seen your post about the wiring. If it was the switch, I was going to suggest you retained the defective one, fitting one that works once a year, for MOT purposes, so you may develop a reputation as a madman - the last of the loony late-brakers with more feet than brain cells. But I can't now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 BB.. V6 means you touch both wires together to create a circuit (bypassing the switch). Just taking them off wont do it mate. Touch the wires that come off the switch both together, and the light will light up. If not its the wires.If it does its the switch. I Just said do a continuity test as its similar. Sorry if you have done this but it reads as though you just unplugged them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boozybloke Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 BB.. V6 means you touch both wires together to create a circuit (bypassing the switch). Just taking them off wont do it mate. Touch the wires that come off the switch both together, and the light will light up. If not its the wires.If it does its the switch. I Just said do a continuity test as its similar. Sorry if you have done this but it reads as though you just unplugged them. Ah, yeah that is what I meant, didn't read your post properly... that seems logical, probably why I didn't think of it myself.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Ah, yeah that is what I meant, didn't read your post properly... that seems logical, probably why I didn't think of it myself.. Its ok mate.. had to be sure you was both on the same page as us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boozybloke Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Turns out it was the switch, multimeterd it and its gone so part ordered. Also checked the wiring with the multimeter across the connections, there was power going through the system though no light activation.. I'll just assume that everything's fine and that the multimeter was stopping the circuit somehow (to protect itself maybe?) Fingers crossed no more issues when the switch arrives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Wre you getting voltage across the terminals? If so, connect your leads for Amperage reading, most meters can handle 10A, then BRIEFLY touch across the terminals, you should get your brake light. The cheaper, safer alternative is just a piece of wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Wre you getting voltage across the terminals? If so, connect your leads for Amperage reading, most meters can handle 10A, then BRIEFLY touch across the terminals, you should get your brake light. The cheaper, safer alternative is just a piece of wire. You won't even need to be brief with this, all you're going to do is see how much current the brake light draws, which'll be less than 2A. Of course, it won't do anything that touching across the two terminals with a pair of pointy pliers won't acheive in terms of checking your switch and circuit. The only time you're going to want to be brief with checking out current is when you're doing things with batteries and starter motors etc, stuff that has big current draws. As all you're doing is replicating what the switch should do anyway, and it's pretty safe to say the £2 micro-switch isn't a massive high current device, your multimeter will be safe. And yes, I have electrocuted myself a fair few times doing stuff on vehicles, but none of it was due to iffy theory etc, just stupidity. I once woke up in a car park about 2m for the car I was checking the spark on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyk Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 And yes, I have electrocuted myself a fair few times doing stuff on vehicles, but none of it was due to iffy theory etc, just stupidity. I once woke up in a car park about 2m for the car I was checking the spark on... been there, done that and hit the garage door I was only ten and helping dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boozybloke Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 Well, turns out it was the switch; new one arrived today, I tried it, it works. BUT... manage to fumble the arsing thing fitting it on and it's dropped down and is hiding somewhere in the fairings... Aggggghhhh!!! It's getting too dark to see out in the garage now and we have no lighting out there. Remember that thread about near-psychotic episodes over the simplest things? I'm off out to snipe some pedestrians from the top of the multi-story carpark now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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