lorenzo Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Anybody know where i can get one of these things, the one that you can push down the spring and hence undo the gubbins inside the fork to split it open? Also, are they all the same or are there different sized ones for different bikes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_H Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 I used cable ties to do my R1 forks lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamfan Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Reactive Suspension sells tools for that,about £40 I think, might be worth trying ebay also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 http://k-tech.uk.com/product_detail.php?id=2116 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpyduck Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 I use a ratchet strap, one of the ones I got for tying down the bike to a trailer for track days, bit of cloth under metal bits to protect forks. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 What do you want to get out? To replace fork stanchions on your R1 you don't need one.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Really? Stripping down USD's usually need one don't they? It's initially for the r1's forks, I'm going to pop them apart just to clean them up, refresh the oil and of course, make sure they're 100% straight. So what you're saying is that I can simply pop the top on them and undo the springs without having to sqush them down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Really? Stripping down USD's usually need one don't they? It's initially for the r1's forks, I'm going to pop them apart just to clean them up, refresh the oil and of course, make sure they're 100% straight. So what you're saying is that I can simply pop the top on them and undo the springs without having to sqush them down? Crack the top off - fnarrr (loosen the cap when it's in the triple clamps) - pull the forks out from the yokes and wind out the top cap. You can now turn it upside down and lose the old oil. Take a windy gun, with a long 8mm (I think - ronenige will be along to prove me wrong) allen socket and unscrew the large allen bolt at the bottom of the fork lower (make sure you are holding the fork cap or it will fall out bring the whole cartridge along with it.) Slide out the cartridge. Remove the dust seal then release the circlip holding the oil seal in place and huzzah! Slide the forks apart and you have separate uppers and lowers. Now you can change the seals and the lower stanchions if they are bent. To refit reverse the process and fill with the correct amount of oil, I can't remember the exact quantity or weight. It's not an air gap, deffo a quantity. Job jobbed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Nice one, there's a haynes on the way too, so hopefully I'll have some facts and figures for oil to go off too. Unless a slightly heavier oil is recommended as I'm using it on track? Thanks for the info anyway mate, much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annaz Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Nice one, there's a haynes on the way too, so hopefully I'll have some facts and figures for oil to go off too. Unless a slightly heavier oil is recommended as I'm using it on track? Thanks for the info anyway mate, much appreciated. I ended up more confused after consulting the Haynes Give Gareth at Reactive a buzz 07813391563, he straighten you out, but he may well say things like standard early R1 forks are rubbish you need to spend £600 on upgrades to get them on song. That's why I'm putting a ZZr1400 front end on mine, that and it was cheap and looks nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 I'll get the quantity and grade tomorrow for you, I also have a service manual somewhere in PDF format Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccubed Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 If you do need a compressor tool, this is how you do it: Link to my "how to" on zxr forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 I ended up more confused after consulting the Haynes Give Gareth at Reactive a buzz 07813391563, he straighten you out, but he may well say things like standard early R1 forks are rubbish you need to spend £600 on upgrades to get them on song. That's why I'm putting a ZZr1400 front end on mine, that and it was cheap and looks nice He may well do, but this ain't an early one fella it's a 5VY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Muff Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 Lorenzo, buy the kit! I took my forks apart to change the oil and they were an utter CUNT to get back together. Two of us trying everything under the sun to do it. In the end we gave them to a shop to do it. It was embarrassing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 As tom says , but if you want to make it really good http://www.k-tech.uk.com/store.php?PHPSESSID=609c9bf5f42ba8182597894a44d8620a&road=&manufacturer_id=6&model_id=25&year=2006&category=19 the piston kits are brilliant combined with the right spring , get the rear serviced and sprung at the same time worth every penny and this is cheap ! http://k-tech.uk.com/product_detail.php?id=2327 to do it best you do need to set the level but if your starting from completely empty then capacity is near enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 Lorenzo, buy the kit! I took my forks apart to change the oil and they were an utter CUNT to get back together. Two of us trying everything under the sun to do it. In the end we gave them to a shop to do it. It was embarrassing. What forks are they? This model R1 really are not that bad at all, there's only the top cap and the bolt in the bottom stanchion holding it together. If all I was planning to do was change the seals and possibly the lowers I really wouldn't bother with the kit. Also the K-tech kit in the first link is nice to have, but at £75.00 it's a bit steep for the DIY mechanic who really isn't going to be doing this that often, especially if it isn't even needed to do this job. Just work slowly, be methodical, work in a clean, tidy area and lay everything out in the order it was removed. Simple. +1 for the piston kit matched with springs and decent oil - K-tech will be able to tell you to use different oil from standard if needed for your lardy lanky arse - All depends on how long you are planning on keeping the bike and how much track work it's going to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 Cheers for your run through on how to do these cibbers, just stripped them down into their 3 chunks, the outer, the stantion and the cartridge, all looks well. I ran the outer and the stantion on a pair of v blocks and checked for wobbles, all as smooth and as straight as can be. Cheers once again. Also, fork oil, it gets bloody everywhere, doesn't it. You think it's drained, it's not let out a drop of 5 minutes then all of a sudden, blurp, there's a spoonful of the stuff, right in your lap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 Cheers for your run through on how to do these cibbers, just stripped them down into their 3 chunks, the outer, the stantion and the cartridge, all looks well. I ran the outer and the stantion on a pair of v blocks and checked for wobbles, all as smooth and as straight as can be. Cheers once again. Also, fork oil, it gets bloody everywhere, doesn't it. You think it's drained, it's not let out a drop of 5 minutes then all of a sudden, blurp, there's a spoonful of the stuff, right in your lap... O'rrible stuff fork oil... can't get it off anything! See these two images as there are a few settings for 5VY R1's, the 2004 and 2006 model are different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 Although there's a difference on the top bit, don't get confused by the s version, I think that's the one with ohlins and marchesinis etc. What weight does 01 oil work out to then and is it what the tattooed up sticker brothers named themselves after? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Muff Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 What forks are they? RR6 Blade. Just couldn't get enough force on to the spring to compress it enough to do up the cap. You may remember the thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 Although there's a difference on the top bit, don't get confused by the s version, I think that's the one with ohlins and marchesinis etc. What weight does 01 oil work out to then and is it what the tattooed up sticker brothers named themselves after? The S is the SP , 01 is about 3.5ish , I use 5w and twiddle to suit ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 Lovely, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgermilk Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 Stripped my Showa forks on my Mille a few times. I just man up and use 2 tapered punches instead of the proper tool. It is a two man job however and requires a bit of muscle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Stripped my Showa forks on my Mille a few times. I just man up and use 2 tapered punches instead of the proper tool. It is a two man job however and requires a bit of muscle Lol read the rest of the posts, how many times do I have to say, this model doesn't require compressing the fork springs!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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