Wildcard Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 I know this is probably gonna be obvious but i don't have a haynes manual and was wondering if you have to do both sides at the front together or whether you can do one at a time?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamfan Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 One at a time, do the left one first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Thank you top man! left as your sitting on it yeah? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGoat Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 if you have a bleed nipple on the master cylinder, do THAT first, then the left calipper, right calipper, then manster cylinder again. First time i did it, i spend AGES trying to bleed the calippers with no joy whatsoever. Then realised you need to to the M/C first. Mongo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Pigdog Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Correct-if it's a c or d model throw the master cylinder away and replace with brembo.standard ones really do become quite scary with fade! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Its a c2. cheers guys i'm now gonna go do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 THERE IS NO BLEED NIPPLE ON THE MASTER does it make a difference that its got braided hoses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddie Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 A good tip, after bleeding the brakes. Tie a zip (cable) tie around the bar and brake lever, holding the brake on. Leave overnight (or longer if you have spongy brakes) and all (most) of the air comes out and super sharp brakes. - most of the time........ as long as your seals/banjos/copper washers etc are not leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 A good tip, after bleeding the brakes. Tie a zip (cable) tie around the bar and brake lever, holding the brake on. Leave overnight (or longer if you have spongy brakes) and all (most) of the air comes out and super sharp brakes. - most of the time........ as long as your seals/banjos/copper washers etc are not leaking This is absolute rubbish and does nothing of the sort. Holding the brake lever in closes off the supply to the reservior, therefore no bubble will go past the master cylinder. Why people keep coming out with this crap is amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 ITS ALL GONE HORRIBLY HORRIBLY WRONG I've now "lost" all the brake fluid in the system and replaced it with good quality air. I know this because i bled it all out before i tried to put the new stuff in . . . to make sure i wasn't mixing brake fluids . . . coz i didn't know what was in there . . . I told my mechanic buddy on the phone about 10 mins ago and he's still laughing Its not gone well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGoat Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Woops. As far as i know you just need to bleed the calipers if there's no nipple on the M/C. Could be wrong though. I think it'll just take you a while now to get the fluid through the system to the callipers. You'll get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Woops. As far as i know you just need to bleed the calipers if there's no nipple on the M/C. Could be wrong though. I think it'll just take you a while now to get the fluid through the system to the callipers. You'll get there. It doesn't even seem to want to go down the hose for some reason in about 10 mins i'm bailing for mw2 and beer. i'll just use the rear on track lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 It doesn't even seem to want to go down the hose for some reason in about 10 mins i'm bailing for mw2 and beer. i'll just use the rear on track lol Pump the lever. The fluid will go down the braided lines. Make sure you open a bleed nipple on 1 side. I do longest line first (which normally is the left as you sit on the bike) Clear bit of tube over the open nipple. grab a empty jar and put 1 inch or so of fluid in the jar. Put clear hose in said jar with fluid so that the hose is under the fluid and attached to the bleed nipple on the other end. Pump brake SLOWLY and air will enter the jar (under the fluid as bubbles) Doing it this way will stop air going back in the system. Make sure the master cylinder remains full at all times. Do 2 lots on each side. fill master cylinder then nearly empty it, then do it again (close bleed nipple) and move to the other side. Do the same on that side and then go back to the left again and then the right. All should be hunky dory when you have done it. And yes tying the lever back does nothing. You are shutting the fluid off when you squeeze the lever, and all you will do is compress the air in the system if there is any. leave the lever alone. Air will naturally rise. If you think air can get back in when the lever is pulled back try doing this...tie lever back.. then Crack open a bleed nipple and try injecting brake fluid with a syringe through it and see if it comes out in the master cylinder.IT WONT.How is air supposed to move when it is compressed?And if it did how can it escape?? if you get stuck im sure someone can pop over to help.. hell i will if i have to.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 A tip I picked up from a mechanic friend of mine; if you bleed and bleed and bleed the brake lines, but you still have spongy brakes, try just unnipping the master cylinder banjo bolt and pumping out some fluid there (CARE: do not allow brake fluid to come into contact with the surfaces of your motorcycle or your hands. Catch it on some old shitty rags). Sometimes, air can get trapped here and its not really very easy to get it out. yep thats true. you can get rid of this by reverse bleeding,, same thing.before you crack it off apply a little pressure to the lever.Then crack it so the lever moves slowly and re tighten while the lever is still going back, this way you wont suck in any air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 yep thats true. you can get rid of this by reverse bleeding,, same thing.before you crack it off apply a little pressure to the lever.Then crack it so the lever moves slowly and re tighten while the lever is still going back, this way you wont suck in any air. Its all ok . . . . When my mechanic mate stopped laughing he suggested the reverse blled thing and it seems to have worked. Still don't feel 100% i think the copper washers may be leaking a tiny bit but i've tied the lever back so if nothing else it'll tell me if theres a leak tomorrow - sorted Thanks everyone for the help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 you might still have air in the system mate. Tiny air bubbles can linger in the system.. Give it another bleed today and see if you get any more air. brake fluid is cheap enough,,your life aint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Just take your time and work slowly and methodically. Make sure your reservoir is full at all times and the fluid never goes past the bottom hole to the M/C. If there's no bleed nipple on the master cylinder just use the banjo bolt. Using the same action as you would with a bleed nipple, put a rag underneath the banjo bolt and crack that loose a tiny bit. You should find that air will bubble out of this. When you have a nice small constant flow of fluid you can move down to the calipers. Do the normal procedure, making sure your tubes coming off your bleed nipples are dunked in a jar with fluid in it. You should find you have to keep refilling the reservoir as the system pulls through fluid with tiny air bubbles. You might get through a fair bit of fluid though doing this, don't fret, just keep going. Hopefully your calipers are in their mounting positions, if you've got to this stage and you've still got a little air in the system give your calipers a few knocks with a soft face hammer. This can shift any tiny bubbles left in awkward positions left in the calipers. Then I would definitely try doing the cable tie around the brake lever. Allegedly above ^ it's bollocks but I can confirm it's most definitely not and I have seen and had lots of success myself with this method. IIRC Mark/Foggy and I did this with the Superstock GSXR K10 at the Bol D'or this year when the rider was complaining about the brakes... We left it overnight I think. Needless to say the brakes where bang on for the race. Bleeding them can be a pain, but just be prepared for the job to take a while.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Then I would definitely try doing the cable tie around the brake lever. Allegedly above ^ it's bollocks but I can confirm it's most definitely not and I have seen and had lots of success myself with this method. IIRC Mark/Foggy and I did this with the Superstock GSXR K10 at the Bol D'or this year when the rider was complaining about the brakes... We left it overnight I think. It is bollocks. Leaving the lever NOT tied back over night would have given you the same results, any air bubbles would have risen slowly over night with the lever tied back or not! It's only because you are doing something that you think its that that is helping fix it! Think about it! When the lever is tied back, the brake system is under permanent pressure. So where are any air bubbles going to go!? You're best off leaving the brake lever out, meaning the fluid reservior is NOT closed off to the rest of the system. People tend to forget that brake fluid it a lot thicker than water. It's not going to run through the brake lines quickly, you need to take your time when doing it. Once you've bled the master cylinder, you can leave a bleed nipple on one of the calipers open and it will eventually makes it own way down and out, there isn't even any need to pump the lever at this stage, you only need to do that when the system is full and you are onto the final air bleed stage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Hel's bleeding advice Scroll down the page, no disrespect, but I think these lot have contributed to quite a few championship wins... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 I guess everyone has their own ways then. I've never used this method, ever. I can bleed a system from dry (replacing calpiers or lines) in around 15-20 mins, none of this leaving overnight rubbish! To be honest though, all Hel do is 'make' the brake lines, they don't fit them, it's the teams mechanic that fits them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 I guess everyone has their own ways then. I've never used this method, ever. I can bleed a system from dry (replacing calpiers or lines) in around 15-20 mins, none of this leaving overnight rubbish! To be honest though, all Hel do is 'make' the brake lines, they don't fit them, it's the teams mechanic that fits them. You are of course right, and it is just a last resort thing to be honest, therefore would be something I would advise to someone who's having a fair bit of trouble like the OP As for Hel not bleeding any, I'd imagine they have support guys at the races in the UK plus surely they test their equipment before they flog it, and regularly fit them in their test processes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 You are of course right, and it is just a last resort thing to be honest, therefore would be something I would advise to someone who's having a fair bit of trouble like the OP As for Hel not bleeding any, I'd imagine they have support guys at the races in the UK plus surely they test their equipment before they flog it, and regularly fit them in their test processes... You're probably right. Although I would have thought they were only on call at races to supply any lines that have failed, maybe?! And yes they would test the lines, but not by fitting to a bike. There would be a test bench for it that they just hook up a line to and test for leakes around both ends. Anyway, Millemille has explained it a lot better than my previous attempts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard Posted June 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 handbags lol. They weren't too bad on track i think it is now more of a combination of a friggin big bloke trying to stop quickly and standard master cylinders. . . . . Hello . . . Is that brembo? Lol :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddie Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 This is absolute rubbish and does nothing of the sort. Holding the brake lever in closes off the supply to the reservior, therefore no bubble will go past the master cylinder. Why people keep coming out with this crap is amazing! I do apologise for not actually thinking about what I have explained. Although in my piss poor defence I seem to remember reading it in a bike mag (PB?)trying it for myself and finding that it "seemed" to work. I have left brakes for longer than one night for the bubbles to "evaporate" on their own, but it never seemed to work (at least for me anyway) I shall continue to bleed my brakes the way I always have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Sorry, my reply does come across a liitle harsh! I've never needed to leave brakes overnight and certainly never going to tie a lever back! I can bleed brakes from dry in around 20 mins and even so on old tired brakes on 15+ year old bikes too. If you're strapping a lever back overnight then you've not done something right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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