speedy sie Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 can some one please emplane a few things. 1,swing arm pivot point(as in adjustable the amount and were to put it...up, down, front,,back,)..and swing arm length and its importance.. 2,off set of yoke(i do know a bit about this ,but more is better) 3,wheel base and handling want to get the road srad even better,plus some info for the xro bike. road bike 6mm ride height, -5mm off set on yokes,5mm stick up,and weighted springs for me, rear ome shock re valved and set for me,swing arm ome,the bike handles well and last year the tyres told the story, lovely tread wear so bike is set up ok,yo exelect for me,but i just want to know if i can make it better on the steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pullingmyplonker Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Check out this website it might help you out Link - http://www.onthethrottle.com/howto/dave-moss-unsprung-fork-manipulation-and-fork-geometry/ Check out the other HOW TO videos as there are a few that might help ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Generally speaking, a longer wheelbase will slow the turn in make things more stable. A longer swingarm, as a proportion if the bikes overall length, will make it less prone to wheelies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZ faybo Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Mate Chassis set up is an black art with many variables dependant on how the bike is used and how your riding style different things work for different people. Your bike, your suspension, your tires, your engine power characteristics the list goes on. Check this fellow out, his book is great reading and is a good starting point to help out. http://www.tonyfoale.com/ As I mentioned that day whilst going through that Gold mine of XRO parts with you. If you dont have base settings and data all those XRO parts especially the linakges and knuckles for what they were designed for what swinger and shock and linkage and spring and tire and circuit and so on and so on you could lost very quickley and go backwards from the oem stock stuff! Check Tony Foals stuff out, but be warned once you start you its hard to stop chasing that "perfect" set up. Come Supermoto testing with me some time and see what radical changes we make to get the mx bikes to out handle sports bikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted June 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 would love to come just drop me a pm when you are next out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 thanks Mike,just one question, how do you fine the rider/bike Cog? iv had the bike weighed for front and back weight distribution bike was 86kg up front 84kg at the rear this was dry weight.but im back on ome wheels now.so will be a bit more. the rear is spot on,tyres were was really good last year even graining front the centre to the edge ,but the front was a little hard to push in to corners,at a good speed pushing the front was o.k to good,bike was stable,and exited well, and on roll on throttle from pre apex was nice and stable as well,and was really good nice grip, tyre was well planted and only on a few times i could feel a grip loss. Uploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.us sorry for the bleery pics...and for those in the know,i do the set up,and this is a fast road tyre,not peeled back on the tyre cut,no ripping,no cold tear,no rubb,and this tyre has just done a 17+ top speeds lap of the 6 mile loop i do for testing witch includes the 16+ blechley bends (and yes i cut the tread...) but the problem is low low speed tight bends,the front is .....just ok...i just could not push the girl hard into round abouts,tight 90's...ext i know this is a pooer as low speed is a diffident set up to heigh speed ,but am i missing something?? just want to get the bike set up better myself and the info you have given me is ...great, wait fir it.. is there any books for idiots on the subject for me to read(get the miss' to read to me) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZ faybo Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Mate Ther are several option, as said get Tony foales book, or go and take your bike to some one like 100% suspension or MCT ride in ride out service and they will work with you to set the bike up and explain what does what in palin english. Even better if you can do this at a track day with all manner of bends because you can collect consitant data usiing the same corners all the time. Mate your running pro level parts on a road bike. When we played with triple clamp off sets on Motards it was allways with a compromise for one feeling or another. We play with incraments of 2mm and can move back over 17mm!!!. normally dependant on front tire profile and circuit. The more we moved back the more stable/heavier the bike felt and gave more stability into and a corner but from apex onwards on throttle they became a tad unstable and gave head shake the bonus effect was also to help reduce chatter but the we ended up playing with rebound settings to help exit grip then air gap and so and so on dependant on how riders allso used the throttle on exit. The stock units made the bike "feel" more flickable and light and easy but when pushed hard reduced grip and feedback. There is no easy answer as we all ride differently. And your mopeds have a mixture of all manner of parts, your triple clamps may have the best off set for medium fast flowing circuits not round abouts! You say slower speeds its ok? but how does it feel? heavy/slow sensation of understear? do you think maybe your forks are to low in the triples? I say that as last Apriia i rode had forks dropped through was great at high medium speeeds but slow speeds would not turn in felt like front was pushing whilst going around the track i sat right back in the seat as far as i could go to get weight off the front and suddenly the front worked for me a slow speeds so we raised the forks back up to find a compramise between the two, then we wenr from Dunlops to Bridgstone and had to start all over again to get rear grip!! You will chase compramises all day long mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 thank for the incite slow speed the front feels like its under load to much load,and has chattered to death some times,iv played with air gap and fork settings(rebound)and got it better,its a compromise i know,but i like to do my setting myself,as this is how i work,iv read loads of stuff on the net,and i gues the next step is to take it to some one in the know to get it better. im a soft rider, smooth and can feed the throttle well at heigh speed,but on slower corners im am a bit to aggressive,and i think this is half the problem,i just carry to much speed in and expect the front to hang in there,i do move about a lot,but i tend to drop falward to load the front up trailing the brake in to corners,then slide back to get the grip and the bike upright on exit if this makes ant sence,may be a different bodey positioned will help?? the bike has been rebuilt and i am in the setting up stage as soon as it on the road,so all this info will help with set up agine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZ faybo Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Mate, if your moped has one of your all spangley rear sub frames, start but going back to stock so your bottom is a tad lower and further back rather than humping the tank and see how that feels as a start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 thanks agine Mike,ill write down all the parts of a corner and then put in to practice all the info iv been given.im quite lucky as the 6 to 10 mile loop i do is 4 miles flat bends 16 plus on some of the sweepers,3 or6 miles of hilly tight bends and some good straights for the 17puss, then back home to see the tyre were and check the bike over,ill time my self this year to see the average speed. the engine is a full yoshey top end with balanced crank/kife edge and all the other tuning thinks that go into a bsb engine,was told this engine is out of an ex bsb bike from 98,chap had three,and i had this one(for free)....so the bike will be a diffident bike to last year as i cracked the frame!!!..so it will be a fresh start to get it handling right.pluss im going from parrelis to metzler this year,as i ran metzler a couple of years age and the bike was at its best then.have buit the bike to the same set up,will see if it can handle the more power,as it wanted to wheel last year on hard throttle.but was very good on the fast bends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 I'd say that you should ignore suspension set up and get your speedo sorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 thanks mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 i dont think it would take 2 mins to kick the door in.......the think is hanging of it hinges... but thanks agine Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Sounds to me like it's trying to push the front a bit in the slower stuff. Stick the bike up a further 2mm front and rear and see how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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