V6Jon Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 First the good news ! With a pair of jump leads and a small funnel to hold the fuel I have managed to get my SRAD running (sort of) for the first time since January 2010 The problem is its rougher then a badgers arse ! Temp guage made it to about 70 before I gave up annoying the neighbours, but it still wouldnt tick over, was constantly surging up to about 6k, and then dieing again. If left alone it would sometimes tick over for a few seconds before cutting out, and a handful of throttle sometimes brought the revs up, and sometimes it would just cut out. On the plus side all four downpipes were hot, so it was clearly running on all four pots. So I was wondering what the opinions are on this ? Is it simply a case of not having run for a long time, poor fuel pressure (no pump running) and wildly out of balance carbs ? Or should I be checking / considering something else entirely ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6Jon Posted May 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 And if anyone can correct the spelling of carburation that would be nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Is it simply a case of not having run for a long time, poor fuel pressure (no pump running) and wildly out of balance carbs ? Probably all of these plus other things. Firstly, did you have the airbox on there? Secondly, are you 100% certain there's no air leaks? Revs rising loads sounds like an air leak to me, although it's something that these do a bit too easily because they're so lean on the pilots as stock anyway. If the tick-over speed is raised beyond about 1.5 it'll rocket up to about 4000 in about a quarter of a turn, which is lovely huh... To check for air leaks, spray something like easy start round by the carbs, where the meet the head, and listen for rev rises. It's a bummer trying to get the carbs and the airbox on, not having them all sealed first time is probably par for the course. I'm not 100% certain what the lack of fuel pump would do to idle speed, I'd imagine it'd be when there's load on it that you'd notice it most. Also, when you say it's rough, what exactly do you mean? Lump and misfiring type of rough, or just revving up and annoying people? I take it you've put new plugs in it? CR9EK, the twin electrode ones, are supposed to be a big improvement, but to be honest, getting the jetting right etc is going to be more effective than a set of posh plugs. Oh and good news on getting it running too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6Jon Posted May 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Start with the last bit first, yes new plugs, also using fresh fuel. When it was running it was either lumpy and about to cut out or screaming its head off. As the first thing youmentioed was having the airbox on, and seeing as mine was out of the way on the workbench in the shed, I am presuming this could have quite an impact on it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kayla Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 The airbox would have made a difference, and give your carbs a quick council balance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 I've never run mine without an airbox, so I don't know first hand, but on srad specific forums some people simply say it won't run at all without an airbox, so a couging, spluttering bike is better than some! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6Jon Posted May 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Thanks Kayla, I had been wondering exactly how I could balance the carbs without it running !! Funnily enough as soon as I saw your comment I remembered reading about that when it was originally posted, it had completely gone from my mind though. Also interesting to know they dont run without the airbox, so I have a plan ! 1 - 'Counciil' balance of carbs 2 - fit airbox. 3 - annoy neighbours some more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Just to add a bit more info to this, the bike runs fine without an airbox, without load at least, so ignore the rubbish I've read elsewhere. Also, in related news, carb balancing smooths stuff right out at tick over, but I've not had chance to run it on the open road yet, there's a digger blocking my drive! A 'council estate' balance is enough to get it running OK, it's how I've been riding about for the last 6 months, but a pukka vacuum balancer is a world apart in terms of the fine tuning, going on just the smoothness at idle and how it picks up. I pretty pleased with how it's all gone, despite my lips still stinging from my experiment into syphoning fuel, but the location of the vacuum take-offs on the inlets are just plain stupid, and to a lesser extent the adjuster screws. From the looks of things in the haynes, the later bikes and the 600's are a bit better, they have the take-offs on the metal bit on the head, just under each inlet. Top tip is just to take the tank off completely and run a dirty great bit of hose filled with fuel. My 4' length of tubing was sufficient, providing I topped it up every 3 or 4 minutes, but it could probably have lasted longer than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kayla Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 I was just going off how badly my FZR4/6 ran without an airbox and bad carbs. It wouldn't even rev past 6000 in neutral and idled as lumpy as a lumpy thing. One airbox and a balance later, and it's a different bike*. * It's not actually a different bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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