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Rsv Mille Valve Clearances


badgermilk

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Hey folks,

I bought a RSV track bike 3 weeks ago which I have now stripped to give it a good going over and service. Just an engine in a frame at the moment!

I checked the rear cylinder valve clearances last night and a few were out of tolerance (too tight). I’m assuming that the front cylinder will also have a few tight valves.

The question is can you change the shims with the engine still in the frame? It looks just about doable but has anyone got any first hand experience?

Also does anyone have any general tips for doing this job? I have looked for an alignment hole to place a pin (or drill bit) through but to no avail. I think you just have to be careful not to turn the engine over with the cam chain removed.

Is there any other jobs I should be doing while the bike is this far stripped?

Thanks for the help!

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Have a look on the RSV forums mate. You should be able to find links to .pdf's of the workshop manuals. If memory serves you can do it in the frame and you just have to be careful of your timing when you refit your cams.

If you are feeling adventurous, investigate threads showing how you can slot your cam sprockets, time the cams with a dial gauge and get the cheapest ever extra horses at your back wheel.

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I've done a Falco which is essentially the same.

advise as above.

Rear cylinder is easy, front is more tricky.

Used the cable tie to lock the camshaft sprocket to the camchain. The other really useful tool is the crankshaft locking pin - essentially a long allen bolt with the first 5mm turned down to make a pin. it is wound in (carefully) and engages with a hole in the crankshaft to lock each cylinder at TDC - details are in the RSV engine manual (downloadable somewhere but not sure where now)

Good Luck

Taq

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Thanks for the help guys. Going to takle this on the weekend. Going to leave the engine in the frame. I'll start on the rear cylinder and then do the front.

I dont have a suitable locking pin so I'll just be careful not to turn the engine over and cable tie the camchain. I'll let you know how it goes.

What can you expect to pay for the shims from a dealer/stealer?

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+1 for the cable tie technique - it really works a treat - I used it earlier this year when doing the valve clearance on the R1

IMG00114-20110213-1012.jpg

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Thanks for the help guys. Going to takle this on the weekend. Going to leave the engine in the frame. I'll start on the rear cylinder and then do the front.

I dont have a suitable locking pin so I'll just be careful not to turn the engine over and cable tie the camchain. I'll let you know how it goes.

What can you expect to pay for the shims from a dealer/stealer?

The locking pin is easy to make - it litterally is a long allen bolt with the end threads filed down - took me all of 10 mins to make my one.

I got my replacement shims from Speedaway Motorcycles mail order (next day del)

Taq

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It may be less of an issue with a twin but with a four there is quite a lot of maths to do with deciding which shims are needed then swopping them round. This tends to reduce the number you need to buy. So with the magic of google docs please feel free to use this spreadsheet:

type in the blue columns

Created from an picture on "zxr400 world"

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That spreadsheet looks like a good idea but it wont let me type in the boxes. Is it just my computer?

Surely its just a case of:

1. If the valve clearance is too small.

2. Measure valve clearance (say 0.1mm)

3. Measure shim (say 0.25mm)

4.If the clearance requred is (say 0.15mm)

5. You need a shim measuring 0.2mm i.e. = (measured clearance + measured shim - clearance required)

If the clearance is too large then you calculate (measured clearance + clearance required - measured shim)

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  • 2 weeks later...

That spreadsheet looks like a good idea but it wont let me type in the boxes. Is it just my computer?

Probably because it is your computer. I was hoping it would let you download a copy. changed the settings to anyone can edit

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