Gregorious77 Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 I have a 99 ZX6R, stage 1 dynojet, K&N filter and IXIL race can. Riding the bike is ok. It pulls well all the way to the red line not hesitation or nout. Idle is ok maybe a little lumpy but I am told they all are. The problem is if I ride on a steady throttle for a while at highish revs i.e 6K+ and then open the throttle it hesitates like there is no fuel but then picks up again. It is more prone to this if knocking down through the box quickly keeping the revs high on a closed throttle or if the throttle is closed down a hill but the revs kept up high. Any ideas where to start looking? needles, float heights? Another little niggle is an occasional backfire when on the choke. valve clearances have just been done by me and all are within spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLCOOLJ Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 I have a 99 ZX6R, stage 1 dynojet, K&N filter and IXIL race can. Riding the bike is ok. It pulls well all the way to the red line not hesitation or nout. Idle is ok maybe a little lumpy but I am told they all are. The problem is if I ride on a steady throttle for a while at highish revs i.e 6K+ and then open the throttle it hesitates like there is no fuel but then picks up again. It is more prone to this if knocking down through the box quickly keeping the revs high on a closed throttle or if the throttle is closed down a hill but the revs kept up high. Any ideas where to start looking? needles, float heights? Another little niggle is an occasional backfire when on the choke. valve clearances have just been done by me and all are within spec. Hmm... Sorry mate don't wann hi jack your thread, but i am facing this issue as well! Got a 98 ZX6R too with a dyno jet on it! Was runnig all fine until i changed to a quick action throttle, now when i open the throttle it has the same issues as you. Also when i open the throttle from idle the engine cuts out?? Had similar issues on my R6 and it was the carbs, needles made the holes oval..... Any Guru's to help 2 people out :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Ideal world - dyno run with a/f chart and a clever chap to advise what to change based on said run. In the mean time - http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/perversepolishe...roubleshoot.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLCOOLJ Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Ideal world - dyno run with a/f chart and a clever chap to advise what to change based on said run. In the mean time - http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/perversepolishe...roubleshoot.pdf Looks like its a trip to Road and Track Dyno in Aylesbury then...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorious77 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Looks like its a trip to Road and Track Dyno in Aylesbury then...... Cant afford Dyno time myself so I guess I will have to live with it or just adjust things a bit at a time and see what happens. Thought someone would have an idea where to start thats all. I will try moving my needles up a notch at a time to see if this has an effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Fair enough. Worth keeping an eye out for a dyno day (rescogs is organising one soon I believe) and asking nice for an a/f run while there, should be quite cheap on the day. Is it better or worse on a cold day? Mine had smiliar and turned out the mains were way too small. Made sense that it was a lot worse on a cold day... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Cant afford Dyno time Literally just a run with an a/f reading should cost you about £25 and will tell you what your fuelling's like right accross the rev range, then you can make changes from there. The time you will save knowing what you're starting with is well worth the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Literally just a run with an a/f reading should cost you about £25 and will tell you what your fuelling's like right accross the rev range, then you can make changes from there. The time you will save knowing what you're starting with is well worth the money. Exactly this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorious77 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Ill see if I can afford that next month. It is worse on a cold day I recon because I cant remember it happening last summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 What sort of MPG are you getting -worse than before? Does it start from cold without choke? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorious77 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 MPG or per tank is the same, around 120-130 miles a tank. Will not start without choke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavydavy Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 It is worse on a cold day I recon because I cant remember it happening last summer. A (very) long shot but is it possibly a little bit of carb icing - what time of day do yu normally ride at? I don't know how cold it is in the UK at the moment (you'd not get carb icing here as its lows of about 11 overnight and highs of 29-ish in the day) ut I recall readin a few years ago that petrol is designed for FI systems these days and that there are also winter & summer blend variations to aid atomisation etc. If you're using a winter blend fuel, designed for FI, in a carbed bike in cold weather you could experience the occasional hiccup there could be a minor 'frosting' round one of the needles? Like I say, its a very long shot but you never know..... I had a problem with one of our DR-Zs the other year - it kept cutting out briefly and not driving steadily on a steady throttle, yet the local mechanics and a load of mates couldn't find the cause at all...... Turned out that my super-huge clown feet meant my heel was just touching the side stand and when the bike went over a bump or I moved backwards ever so slightly I't tap the stand, opening the cut-out switch circuit briefly. Nobody else did it as nobody else wore canoes instead of boots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorious77 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 I did think maybe slight icing. I ride all times of the day in all weathers but as its been dry lately the pace has picked up. can be chilly in the morning still as low as 3 or 4 degrees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 OK, suggest reading the troubleshooting guide above as well as http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html and http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_proc...pm_engines.html to get your head around what the various bits do and make a plan of attack. I always take the carbs off of a new (to me) bike and clean them, check settings, set floats and do a 'visual balance'. Same applies to something that has been stood for ages too. With a DJ kit there are various sizes of mains and usually adjustable needles. They might have been set wrong, or perhaps leaned off intentionally which would make things worse in t'winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavydavy Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 I always take the carbs off of a new (to me) bike and clean them, check settings, set floats, polish to a mirror finish, polish some more, check that the carbs are no more or less clean than the parts near to them, take the bike down to its components, throw away any that show even the slightest bit of having even been breathed on previously, let alone touched by dirt, etc, etc etc etc....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 anyone would think you knew me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorious77 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 OK, suggest reading the troubleshooting guide above as well as http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html and http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_proc...pm_engines.html to get your head around what the various bits do and make a plan of attack. I always take the carbs off of a new (to me) bike and clean them, check settings, set floats and do a 'visual balance'. Same applies to something that has been stood for ages too. With a DJ kit there are various sizes of mains and usually adjustable needles. They might have been set wrong, or perhaps leaned off intentionally which would make things worse in t'winter. One of the first things I done was stripped checked cleaned and balanced the carbs. For me this is all part of the servicing. The jets and needles are all set up as in the instructions. I even ordered new mains from dynojet in case they were worn or wrong. I have contacted my local dyno centre to ask if they have any idea and I will see what they say. last year I phoned them and told them my setup as my tickover was a bit lumpy and they said it should be spot on out the box and they are all lumpy on the tickover and very hard to get smooth. they did say they could give it a go but it would require some time and cost a fair bit IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorious77 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 This site is Fooked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 The jets and needles are all set up as in the instructions. I even ordered new mains from dynojet in case they were worn or wrong. Thing is, the settings in those kits is only ever a 'very good starting point' and will need tweaking to suit the individual bike, exhaust, filter and where (or indeed how high) you are in the world. I fitted a DJ kit to my GSXR years ago and ended up with mains smaller than the smallest in the kit to get it right (and that was after a dyno run to be sure). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gurninman Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 You can easily eliminate carb icing as the cause by ading some surgical spirit to the tank next time you fill up. Add it at a 1% ratio - it stops carb icing a treat on my ZX9 If it's not that, then the tuning links what Banoffee posted are a good place to start From memory... you don't drill the slides on a stage 1 DJ kit, do you ? (I've only ever had a DJ kit on a oil-cooled GSXR) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 There is a coolant filter on most of the later carbed Kwak's , find it , clean it out and try again , total cost = Nowt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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