Jump to content

Changing SRAD starter covers


V6Jon

Recommended Posts

Morning all,

As I have mentioned in the thread about fitting a manual cam chain tensioner to my SRAD, I cannot get the 'plug' out of the right hand side engine casing to turn the engine over.

For various reasons it looks like the cheapest easiest option to sort this out is to get a complete new casing off the bay, and just replace the whole lot, but I was just wondering . . .

Are all of these cases the same (600 / 750 / carb / inj) ??

How much of a PITA is this gonna be to swap ? is it just cover off, cogs out, main cover off and refiting is the reverse of the above ??

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Odd this , but I came across a few covers that had had to be butchered in the Phase One scrap pile the other day. The inspection/access cover has an O ring behind it and being a large diameter, sticks pretty tight. I'd be tempted just to get the inspection cover and to get the old one out, it appears that you drill into it quite close to the edge and smack it round with a pin punch. Of course the real answer is to fit a factory Mag alloy cover and ditch the starter motor. :icon_salut: Sorry I'm not helping much. :huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Odd this , but I came across a few covers that had had to be butchered in the Phase One scrap pile the other day. The inspection/access cover has an O ring behind it and being a large diameter, sticks pretty tight. I'd be tempted just to get the inspection cover and to get the old one out, it appears that you drill into it quite close to the edge and smack it round with a pin punch. Of course the real answer is to fit a factory Mag alloy cover and ditch the starter motor. :huh: Sorry I'm not helping much. :pbtwerplr3:

Been one of those Yoshimura alloy covers to replace the OEM (without starter of course) on evilbay USA for a few weeks. First time it ended no bids from anyone this time either.......I even posted it up on some forums.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Either do as thefatman says, or get a blowtorch onto the inspection bung in the middle, heat it up, wd40 the hel out of it, do it again, set fire to the wd40, run about screaming as your arm goes up in flames, then, once you've healed, get an impact driver on it. Worse case scenario is that you have to swap the covers, same as you're having to do now. I'd ask melted sliders if you get stuck, not only will they have one for you but they'll also advise if other models fit too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you own / know anyone with a welder, knock the largest diameter bolt you can into the "what was once a hex key". then weld the bolt onto the knackered one.

The heat will probably break the seal on the knackered bolt and also give you something to turn.

Remember to disconnect the battery first, don't want any explosions or fried ECUs around here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a rumage in the garage last night and found me blow torch's, and whilst doing that I also found a set of large torx/allen keys bits I had forgotten about (and rarely use), so the the plan is to heat it up a lot, hammer in a large torx bit, apply impact driver and twat it with a gert big 'ammer !

Failing that I had a chat with a fabricator mate last night who will weld a nut on if I can get the bike to him, so I will fit the new CCT (when it turns up) by turning the back wheel, and sort that out once it is running again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine did the same thing last month, so I made a notch with a chisel next to the damaged Allen key hole and chased it around wit a hammer until it was out . New one was less than $10.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just got back from lunch, and while I was out I got a text saying my parts had arrived.

Nipped into the shop wondering what exactly had arrived, to find the new plug and o-ring that I ordered yesterday lunchtime waiting :icon_puke_r:

I may try to nip out to the garage wiv me 'ammer later :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Success :lol:

Last night I nipped out to the garage, and applied vast quantities of heat to the plug, and then hammered in a much oversize Torx bit and applied some persuasion with my impact driver, which resulted in absolutely fuck all !

I went to remove the bit ready to apply more heat to it, but couldnt. I am guessing that the ally plug had contracted around the torx bit as it cooled. So I whipped out my trusty three foot breaker bar, gave it a little twist and out she came !

The plug is utterly shredded, but I have managed to get away without even a scratch on the engine casing !

All I need now is for the correct cam chain tensioner to turn up and I will be exactly where I was a week ago :eusa_whistle:

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Success :eusa_dance:

All I need now is for the correct cam chain tensioner to turn up and I will be exactly where I was a week ago :tumbleweed:

This is the one step back for you to take your two steps forewards. Keep on keeping on. Other cliches are available.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, manual CCT natch.

However the tale has not ended, it turns out this may have been a mistake :

Last night I nipped out to the garage, and applied vast quantities of heat to the plug, and then hammered in a much oversize Torx bit and applied some persuasion with my impact driver, which resulted in absolutely fuck all !

When I hammered the bit in it punched the bottom of the Allen Key hole out, and into the bottom of the side case :sFun_doh2:

Looks like I will be stripping the right hand side of the engine anyway !

Still, on the bright side at least I can use those gaskets I ordered :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...