V6Jon Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Morning all, Has anyone fitted one of these ?? I have ordered one (and a gasket) to fit to my '96 SRAD, and am happy with the process of fitting the tensioner to the block, but there seems to be a million different opinions on how to set the tension : Engine running and wind it in till the noise goes away Engine stopped, wind it in till you feel resistance, then back it out a quarter turn Engine stopped, whip the rocker cover off and measure the deflection in the cam chain I would have thought the third of the above options would be the one to go with, but can't find details of what the correct tension is, so I thought I would canvas the opinion of forum at large ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 I had one of these on an old Kawasaki Zed and was always told that if you can't hear the cam chain a little then it's too tight and will be wreaking havoc. I always used to wind it in with your fingers (as opposed to a ratchet before anyone says anything) until you feel some resistance then back it off a little. never had any issues in 12,000 miles of abuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccmhunt Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Engine stopped, whip the rocker cover off and measure the deflection in the cam chain Also, see following... installing MCCT I have always used this method. Have my motor out now with top end off for new rings and valve job.......cam chain guides look as good as new, no wear on anything cam drive related....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hipringle Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Lorenzo has just fitted one to his srad 750, he,ll be along to tell you how to do it. Just take heed & do the complete opposite, usually works out fine, last time I heard he was trying to gap spark plugs with a multimetre or something. probably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Mr Hipringle, you sir, you can fuck right off. HTH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Cam chain tensioners, right.... Take the tank off, take the old one out and bolt the new one in. In fact Jon, you've probably got the engine laid out in front of you, this makes it easier as the frame/coils/starter make access a bit fiddley on my bike. I put the new tensioner next to the old auto one, and then roughly set the length it needed to be protruding, save me winding it on for ever in the engine, then backed it off maybe about 3 or 4mm, then bolt it up, not forgetting your lovely new gasket which you'll need because the old one will rip when you take it off. Dead cert. Take the cam cover off, then the small cover that sits on the top of the cam chain (this is under the main cover, you can't see it yet) and the bigger of the two cover/plug things on the right hand side of the block, so you've got the big (14mm?) bolt sat on the end of the crank looking out at you (if your engine is in the bike, take the right hand fairing off, this makes it infinatley easier). Turn this clockwise and keep looking at the cam pulleys until you see 2 holes. The stuff I read said the 2 should come up at the same time, but this wasn't the case on mine. When one's in place, take a cable tie and tie your camchain in place to the pulley, to stop it skipping a tooth. I did the one that was on the side nearest the tensioner as I figured that it was this side that was getting messed about with the most. I put a bit of tape over the other pulley but to be honest it was never going to stick. Now, push the middle of the chain down firmly right between the pulleys, don't be shy, hurt your thumb a bit, I know you like a bit of pain, your Mrs told me. This should cause a bit of slack on the chain. You need some slack on there otherwise you won't know when it's starting to take the slack up, if you see what I mean. You should be able to give the chain a good wiggle up and down between the pulleys; measure the amount, full deflection, from highest to lowest. You want between 1/4 and 3/8ths of an inch (yes APE are American), which to you and I is about 7 or 8mm. Now take your cable ties off the pulley, then take your socket on the end of the crank, still only turning clockwise, and give it a good bike of turning. Hopefully the tension is still steady. Now tighten the locking bolt on the tensioner and put the kettle on, celebrating a job well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpyduck Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Cam chain tensioners, right.... Take the tank off, take the old one out and bolt the new one in. In fact Jon, you've probably got the engine laid out in front of you, this makes it easier as the frame/coils/starter make access a bit fiddley on my bike. I put the new tensioner next to the old auto one, and then roughly set the length it needed to be protruding, save me winding it on for ever in the engine, then backed it off maybe about 3 or 4mm, then bolt it up, not forgetting your lovely new gasket which you'll need because the old one will rip when you take it off. Dead cert. Take the cam cover off, then the small cover that sits on the top of the cam chain (this is under the main cover, you can't see it yet) and the bigger of the two cover/plug things on the right hand side of the block, so you've got the big (14mm?) bolt sat on the end of the crank looking out at you (if your engine is in the bike, take the right hand fairing off, this makes it infinatley easier). Turn this clockwise and keep looking at the cam pulleys until you see 2 holes. The stuff I read said the 2 should come up at the same time, but this wasn't the case on mine. When one's in place, take a cable tie and tie your camchain in place to the pulley, to stop it skipping a tooth. I did the one that was on the side nearest the tensioner as I figured that it was this side that was getting messed about with the most. I put a bit of tape over the other pulley but to be honest it was never going to stick. Now, push the middle of the chain down firmly right between the pulleys, don't be shy, hurt your thumb a bit, I know you like a bit of pain, your Mrs told me. This should cause a bit of slack on the chain. You need some slack on there otherwise you won't know when it's starting to take the slack up, if you see what I mean. You should be able to give the chain a good wiggle up and down between the pulleys; measure the amount, full deflection, from highest to lowest. You want between 1/4 and 3/8ths of an inch (yes APE are American), which to you and I is about 7 or 8mm. Now take your cable ties off the pulley, then take your socket on the end of the crank, still only turning clockwise, and give it a good bike of turning. Hopefully the tension is still steady. Now tighten the locking bolt on the tensioner and put the kettle on, celebrating a job well done. This ..... or just fit a genuine one and it does it all for you... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccmhunt Posted February 23, 2011 Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 yeah..fit a genuine one. And in the SRADs case it will genuinely fail (they were all factory recalled in '99....and those fail too) eventually. Go right ahead.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6Jon Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Thanks guys The original is proper knackered, and having read many horror stories about them failing I shall be avoiding stock ones like the plague ! The APE one is on the bench, just waiting for a gasket to turn up to fit it. In hindsight I really really wish I hadn't spent 30 minutes on Saturday night fitting (and swearing at) the airbox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccmhunt Posted February 23, 2011 Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 wd40 and heat gun and the air box goes on like buttaaa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6Jon Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 wd40 and heat gun and the air box goes on like buttaaa I used WD40, but unfortunately couldn't use my heat gun as the missus was at home and gets pissed off if she sees me taking it into the garage Just noticed the reference to the MCCT in Lorenzo's carb tinkering thread ! I was very pleased to see his is anodised blue the same as mine, apparently you will never get a Gixxah to run right without at least one blue anodised component fitted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 23, 2011 Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 The trick I've found for airbox fitting is to undo the clips so they're about to fall off almost, then push them up past the little rubber flap bit, so they're on the upper half of the rubber. Then push the airbox down and onto the carbs, which should now be easy. What I found was that the rubbers on mine were pushing up into themselves rather than going over the carb, putting the clips into the middle of them firmed them up enough to make it easy to get them on. However, getting the clip back down, especially on the middle 2, is not so easy but it's easier than trying to get them all on at once. As for anodised blue bits: My bike's twice as powerful as yours, it also has anodised bluewashers where the tank bolts down at the front, it's classy like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6Jon Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Pfft anodised washers !?!?! I am planing a blue screen, held on with a set of blue anodised bolts I reckon thats gonna be worth about at least an extra bazillion horse power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sennidott Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Pfft anodised washers !?!?! I am planing a blue screen, held on with a set of blue anodised bolts I reckon thats gonna be worth about at least an extra bazillion horse power Blue screen you say... I've got just the thing for you. It will be worth as you say at least an extra bazillion horse power but that power won't come cheap you know. Just let me know when you want the blue screen. It's waiting here with your name on it, go on you know you want to. The only probem is I sold my last set of blue anodised screen bolts to speedie sie... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Just a quick addition to this lot, I fitted the manual adjuster last week and was fairly smooth sounding but over a couple of rides it started to get a bit harsh. I've just pivoted the tank up and given it a little tweak, no more than half a turn and it smoothed everything out again. I guess that this is most likely the lock nut not being done up tight enough, or perhaps the rubber seal under the lock nut compressing and hence loosening it, but all the same, give it a bit of time and be prepared to go back and adjust it, it's dead simple to do, the hardest bit is probably getting your arm in once the tank's lifted back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6Jon Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 I managed to get a couple of hours out in the garage last night, so thought I would have a go at fitting this CCT . . . What a fucking disaster that was ! Pulled the carbs off, unbolted the coils from the frame, cleaned the top of the engine and whipped the rocker cover off, all going well so far ! As I pulled the old CCT out, I remembered I was going to have to turn the engine over, so went to remove the 'plug' from the right hand side engine cover, only I can't because the hole that should be allen key shaped is a mangled circular hole ! Decide to fit the new CCT before seeing what I can do with above mess, only I can't, because I have been sent the wrong fucking part, and the holes for the mounting bolts are about 10mm too far apart, cue much swearing and shouting ! Refit the the old CCT, and the rocker cover, and the carbs before turning my attention to the RHS engine casing. The hole is completely butchered and is going to have to be replaced, so I decide to hammer an oversize bit in to see if it will come out. It won't, it appears to be welded in ! The bit appears to have a good purchse so I whip out the impact driver and give it a wee tap, which amazingly just tears a lump out of the plug without turning it at all ! Arse, fuck and GENT ! So it looks like the next job is actually stripping the starter motor and gears off the RHS of the engine so I can get the case off and see what I can do on the bench ! Fuckitybollocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 Heat. Lots of it, it's probably never been off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredator Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 So, I was in my garage tonight and fitted my APE manual cam chain tensioner to my GSXR1000k4 trackday bike ... I did it as suggested on APE:s homepage (i.e turn engine while winding in the cct and when resistance is felt, wind back 1/4 turn) ... I did have the valve cover off as I have been checking my valve clearence but I made no measurements on the slack of my cam chain (had it in top dead center though and ziptied the cam chain to the sprockets while removing my old tensioner). My question is this ... I am thinking of starting the bike and simply listen how it sounds and adjust from there ? (I have bolted everything back together) I did do the adjustment 3-4 times, marking the bolt when I had the correct resistance (in my opinion) and everytime the measurement was the same ... Looking at the APE site where there is a link to the R1 cct installation ... they do it in a very simple way ?! Sufficent ??? best regards, peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu22 Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I simply set mine until the chains stopped slapping. Did tens of thousands once fitted with no issues.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted November 28, 2013 Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 read with interest. I've got a manual CCT on order for the k6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredator Posted November 28, 2013 Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 I was on a finnish road race forum also and the general opinion was that it isn't rocket science. Set ... start engine ... listen and adjust :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted November 28, 2013 Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 I was on a finnish road race forum also and the general opinion was that it isn't rocket science. Set ... start engine ... listen and adjust :-) It's what I did on my srad too. The thing to do is to make sure that the cam chain tensioner blades, the bits that push on the chain itself, are in good condition, before you start tightening everything up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 read with interest. I've got a manual CCT on order for the k6 and lo! Santa has been (via TTS) now to fit it and fuck up my engine big-style Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 now to fit it and fuck up my engine big-style for details see http://pbmagforum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/32621-gsx-r-1000-k6/page-12#entry950692 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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