hoona6 Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Want to re-paint my forks and the sum total of my painting knowledge is roughly bugger all. So, to get a halfway decent finish what do I need? I was thinking halfords primer, coupla coats of hi-temp silver paint followed by a dash of lacqueur. That sound about right? How many coats? Sanding in between? etc. Tanks very moosh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 prep is 9/10ths of the finished article, it should be baby butt smooth before you start painting it, use wheel lacquer as its a bit better at resisting stone chips and such, you want as many coats as it takes to cover without laying it on thick and i wouldn't sand between coats (if you have to sand between coats then you didn't prep it properly) wipe it down with panel wipe or thinners before you paint (this takes off any oil or silicone you may have missed) TAKE YOUR TIME you'll have a much better job if you take your time and do it with loads of thin coats, dont be tempted to hit something a bit harder with the paint if you missed it the first time/ couple of times, it will even out eventually and if you do bosh it on then you'll get runs (in the paint not your pants) do it somewhere warm nothing worse than waiting longer cos the paints cold. cover anything you dont want spotted the same colour that your painting. shake the cans! before painting and between coats. think that covers it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp5 Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Use acid etch primer first on bare aluminium, or your fresh paint will chip like buggery. Halfturds sell it. Upol Acid Etch #8. You only need a couple or three light coats, you can use normal primer over the top. For things like fork legs I'd use a fine Scotchbrite pad to lightly flat the primer before shooting the colour, and as kaighn80 says just wipe and de-grease with panel wipe before the colour goes on. Don't flat the colour if you're using metallic silver (unless you get paint runs) just shoot light coats of acrylic lacquer over the top. Many light coats are better than a couple of thick heavy ones. Oh, and it's good to stand the cans in a bowl of warm water before use - thins the paint, ups the pressure in the can, and helps it mix better when you shake it. All of this is presuming you'll be using rattle cans? HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo S2 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Sorry to slightly hi-jack this thread, but when spraying matt black, do I need a lacquer? Is it easier than 'normal' paint, or is there anything specific to watch out for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp5 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Sorry to slightly hi-jack this thread, but when spraying matt black, do I need a lacquer? Depends on what you're painting. You can get matt and satin lacquer. Sometimes called 'flat' and 'semi-gloss'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Use acid etch primer first on bare aluminium, or your fresh paint will chip like buggery. Halfturds sell it. Upol Acid Etch #8. You only need a couple or three light coats, you can use normal primer over the top. For things like fork legs I'd use a fine Scotchbrite pad to lightly flat the primer before shooting the colour, and as kaighn80 says just wipe and de-grease with panel wipe before the colour goes on. Don't flat the colour if you're using metallic silver (unless you get paint runs) just shoot light coats of acrylic lacquer over the top. Many light coats are better than a couple of thick heavy ones. Oh, and it's good to stand the cans in a bowl of warm water before use - thins the paint, ups the pressure in the can, and helps it mix better when you shake it. All of this is presuming you'll be using rattle cans? HTH This ^ . The Prep work is the most important,the more time you spend on getting this bit right will show in the finished article.Much better to do a light dusting and leave for 20-30 mins to go tacky and then go over it again to build up the coats.if you use lacquer then do the same.. 2-3 light coats with 2-30 mins in between coats. Also the tip about the warm water will make it better for the paint..Many moons ago we used to heat up the paint in a pan of water on a stove in the winter time. Cold paint aint good. take your time and you will be reeet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Sorry to slightly hi-jack this thread, but when spraying matt black, do I need a lacquer? Is it easier than 'normal' paint, or is there anything specific to watch out for? Depends on what you're painting. You can get matt and satin lacquer. Sometimes called 'flat' and 'semi-gloss'. I would imagine if you are painting it MATT black you wont require a shine, so opt for the flat lacquer. But as alexp says it depends on what you are painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp5 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 I would imagine if you are painting it MATT black you wont require a shine, so opt for the flat lacquer. But as alexp says it depends on what you are painting. If it were an engine case f'rinstance, I wouldn't bother. But if I wanted to paint say a fuel tank matt black, but have decals/pinstripes/logos/whatever, I would use gloss black - then decal - then shoot flat lacquer to seal it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 If it were an engine case f'rinstance, I wouldn't bother. But if I wanted to paint say a fuel tank matt black, but have decals/pinstripes/logos/whatever, I would use gloss black - then decal - then shoot flat lacquer to seal it all. Yeah i agree mate. engines are not worth it.Panels are.. Possibly frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo S2 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Its for bodywork, so a flat lacquer it is then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilchicken0 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Satin coat is what most people think matt is. Remember you can't rub it down or polish it after the final coat. If your painting forks then clean them so there's no oil or grease on them, handle them with vinyl gloves after you degrease them. I'd use a wheel paint (5 wheels silver) you shouldn't have to laquer it remember it has to withstand brake dust on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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