funkyphil Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 So I spent most of yesterday afternoon cleaning the bike* and giving it a once over, giving the chain a proper degrease and lubing everything up, when I notice the left hand crash bung** is loose (I can turn it by hand). Not problem thinks I, I'll just nip it up. So I put a ratchet on it to start with, but strangly it's not getting tighter and I get that sinking feeling in my stomach. So I undo it and lo and behold there's a couple of aluminium strands wrapped around the bolt. Bollocks. Now I've always been paranoid about refitting these things, and everytime I do I start off by turning the bolt the wrong way by hand to make sure I've located the thread, then gently screw it in by hand until I can't turn it anymore. Then tighten it up to the correct torque. So I can't understand how this has happened. Anyway, I guess my question is what do you guys think is the best solution? It'll more than likely be going into a bike shop as I don't have the room to strip the bike myself, and I don't feel confident enough to bugger about with re-tapping threads in engine mounts. The two solutions I've come across are Helicoil or Time-Sert but I don't know which to go for, and I'd like to go to the shop with a little bit of kowledge. I'd really appreciate any info. * it's a GSXR600 K6 ** R&G Aero Crash Bungs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 So I spent most of yesterday afternoon cleaning the bike* and giving it a once over, giving the chain a proper degrease and lubing everything up, when I notice the left hand crash bung** is loose (I can turn it by hand). Not problem thinks I, I'll just nip it up. So I put a ratchet on it to start with, but strangly it's not getting tighter and I get that sinking feeling in my stomach. So I undo it and lo and behold there's a couple of aluminium strands wrapped around the bolt. Bollocks. Now I've always been paranoid about refitting these things, and everytime I do I start off by turning the bolt the wrong way by hand to make sure I've located the thread, then gently screw it in by hand until I can't turn it anymore. Then tighten it up to the correct torque. So I can't understand how this has happened. Anyway, I guess my question is what do you guys think is the best solution? It'll more than likely be going into a bike shop as I don't have the room to strip the bike myself, and I don't feel confident enough to bugger about with re-tapping threads in engine mounts. The two solutions I've come across are Helicoil or Time-Sert but I don't know which to go for, and I'd like to go to the shop with a little bit of kowledge. I'd really appreciate any info. * it's a GSXR600 K6 ** R&G Aero Crash Bungs what a bugger. I know the feeling I had the exact same problem with my R1, years ago. The RHS engine mount stripped the thread. I had the mount hole fixed with an insert - can't remember if it was helicoil or timesert - by my local garage as I wasn't brave enough to try and I didn't have any of the tools. It worked fine and I never had any further problems with it. Just check that you aren't over-tightening the R&G bolt. Usually, as they are longer than the original engine mounting bolts, so they need less torque* I think I had been over-tightening the R&G bolt. *This may or may not be complete bollocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chance Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 i had the same thing happen with my k2 gsxr750 on the right hand side engine mount. i just helicoiled mine and that sorted it but unfortunately i had to drop the engine out (well tilt it forwards anyway) to do it as you cant get the tap in needed for the helicoil otherwise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkyphil Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 what a bugger. I know the feeling I had the exact same problem with my R1, years ago. The RHS engine mount stripped the thread. I had the mount hole fixed with an insert - can't remember if it was helicoil or timesert - by my local garage as I wasn't brave enough to try and I didn't have any of the tools. It worked fine and I never had any further problems with it. Just check that you aren't over-tightening the R&G bolt. Usually, as they are longer than the original engine mounting bolts, so they need less torque* I think I had been over-tightening the R&G bolt. *This may or may not be complete bollocks. If you don't mind me asking how much did they charge you, and did you supply the helicoil/timesert kit or did they do the lot? Cheers for the replies lads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkyphil Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Well, my local bike place reckons it'll be a (worst case) 5-6hr job and therefore cost £300, but could (hopefully) take/cost less and they'll do it with a Time-Sert thread sleeve. I think I'm going to ask them to do both sides while the thing is stripped, as sods-law says the other side will go not long after paying for this one to be sorted. fucksticks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 £300 I feel for you mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignige Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 might be worth popping round a few local engineering companies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 If you don't mind me asking how much did they charge you, and did you supply the helicoil/timesert kit or did they do the lot? Cheers for the replies lads it's so long ago I really can't remember - sorry. It was done as part of a service at the time. Fortunately they could tap & thread the hole, and fit the insert with the engine in situ. But from memory I think they used a timesert, rather than helicoil, and they supplied it. Whichever it was, it was totally trouble free after that. For info, I only ever had that one done, I never bothered having any of the other engine mount holes done & I never needed to. I think the RHS one went because the R&G fits through the fairing on that side, so I had removed and refitted it a lot of times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkyphil Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Cheers Monkey, unfortunately for me both sides go through the fairings and have to be removed everytime I need to take them off. It's a bit of a PITA, and in hindsight I wish I'd gone for the no-cut option which look like they could stay in place and remove the fairings around them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkyphil Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Well, the good bit is I've got the bike back. The bad bit is that I am £300 lighter for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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