Rear disc bolts

[zx9ral]

I'm trying to remove the disk bolts on my 900 Diversion rear wheel to replace the worn disk. The bastard bolts seem to be made of chocolate, & ive tried heating them up then using an Impact driver on them. Nothing is working ! Any ideas, "Trade secrets" ect ? Even piss taking to cheer me up !

[jaycee]

WD40, or similar, overnight.

Try again.

I use a socket with a mahoosive extension on my breaker bar.

[zx9ral]

I did try a normal size socket & wrench, it just chews up the allen bolt !

[lorenzo]

Yep, shit loads of heat, try and get the bolts glowing a bit, then spray them with freeze-spray from maplin. the thermal shock'll get them shifted. The key thing is not to try too hard and p[ersevering when they're just rounding off, you'll probably just get in a mess with them. I'd put money on it that they're cheapo OEM bolts (you know, the ones they want £2.90 each for at the dealers) and they've got a shed load of thread lock on them too.

[Mr.Pigdog]

Like Lorenzo says--heat and cool!I also hit the face of the bolt with a large faced drift to slightly flatten the surface and make the allen key a tighter fit-the shock(i use an impact driver)can also help loosen the threadlock.If they do get rounded then try a torx bit.

[sennidott]

If you have chewed up the heads of the bolts what I would usually do in this situation is:

1. Try what Lorenzo has suggested then hammer a torx bit slightly larger than the 6mm(?) allen key into the bolt. With a bit or perseverance the bolt should come out...

2. If this fails it get a centre punch and a hammer. Centre punch the top of the bolt near the edge and then try and loosen the bolt by angling the centre punch and hitting said punch with the hammer.

Hope this is clear and helps?

[Cibbersicks]

You'll probably find they've been smothered with threadlock, if you haven't chewed up all the bolts yet, you could try 'cracking' the fresh bolts with a breaker bar turning clockwise slightly (in the tightening motion) this will release the threadlock and free up the bolt when you turn it in the opposite direction. Lorenzo's tip with the heat would be my next port of call and then the larger torx bit after I've chewed the bolt up.

Give it a go and let us know ow you get on.

[Doug_R1]

Get a small, sharp, cold chisel and smack it with a hammer at 90 degrees to the bolt until there's a decent indentation. Place the chisel in the indentation, at 45 degrees to the bolt and slightly angled towards the centre of the bolt, then tap/clout it in the direction of the wheel's centre, so you don't split the casting away from the hub. Once it's moving you can usually get the proper tool to undo it the rest of the way. I've never known this not work, if done correctly.

[zx9ral]

Gentlemen, Thanks for all the suggestions. I managed to remove said bolts with a torx bit & a Mahoosive adjustable spanner. I am surprised the came out at all, seing as though they are approx. 30mm long ! Bastards !

[sennidott]

Good work!

[speedy sie]

gentel mad,im a bit late but all the bolts we use a t work as hexe head,and we have become experts at undoing fucked bolts with alen/hexe head.first of all the allen key/bar sould be in a1 condition.

1.always heat up,as there could be lock tight,and then put a punch smaller then the allen hole and give it a tap,donrt damamge the allen survace.

2.use valve past on the allen key,better grip for the key.

3.always hold the key square to the hole,as this is the key to better grip for the allen key.

4.and dont try to rag the shit out of it.....as this is the main problem with rounded allen holes.

5.if the allen key does slip and damage the bolt,then dont panik,get a larger punch to the allen bolt insert,and than hammer the head down round the bolt endge,this will compact the surounding metal to make a tight fit fot the key againe.

6. if this all failes,then tourks bit the next size up can be driven in to the fucked hole,but againe go to start and worm up and use vavle past againe.

7.still no movment and i geues you will have to get the cold chisel,but to be honest in never got to use a chisel on an allen bolt.

last but not least,and i go fucking mental at work aboul this,DONT put an bolt back in that is half raged to fuck and you know will be a pain in the ass to get out,after some time...use a good /new bolt each time and ir there is a likelehud,that the bolt will seze in then use anti seze,and if you use lock tight,then mark the bolt as lock tighted,we use the couler lock tight as a paint we put on all bolts we do.makes life so much easer.

hope this help.

[porter_jamie]

If the head of the bolt is toast, weld a nut on the top of the wankered bolt. The heat normally helps and it will come out really easy

[Doug_R1]

I've found 3/8" drive allan sockets are a much easier way to remove bolts, it's not as hard to keep the key straight into the bolt.

[zx9ral]

Went out today to buy new bolts as the others were fecked. New bolts from Yamaha ? £2:90 EACH ! Trade supplier round the corner ? £2:70 for SIX ! And theyre stainless !

[lorenzo]

I'd put money on it that they're cheapo OEM bolts (you know, the ones they want £2.90 each for at the dealers)

Fucking telepathic!

[krazyk]

When Fitting New bolts lightly cover threads to

about 5mm from the end and then just use a Drop

of thread lock to stop it unwinding.

Hth KK