MonkeyJim Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Hey I am just admiring your hydraulic platform. I could sure use one of them. Where did you get it? it's an Abba superbike lift 500kg - sadly Abba stopped making them a few years ago but the old webpage is still active http://www.abbastands.co.uk/product_details.asp?id=3 it's basically two parts - the hydraulic lifting platform plus a version of their normal superbike stand. I've since made some modifications to it to take account of the akrapovic system on my bike. As standard this lift has a plate which lifts on the bottom of the exhaust headers, like their 'front lift' does. I didn't want to lift on the exhaust so mine now uses the sump instead. It lifts the whole bike up to about waist height which is great for working on it. Also doubles up as a handy workbench for the engine. It's on proper heavy duty castors so is mobile, even with the bike on it. I picked it up off ebay for under a couple of hundred quid, and it's been worth every single penny, and then some. Highly recommended, if you can find one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackdaybob Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrappy600 Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Great Thread! Some excellent spanner work Monkey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Muchos progress yesterday, despite the shite weather. sadly no photos as I forgot to take my phone, but it's no different to engine no.1 Engine No.2 was stripped down with the following done thermostat & coolant pipes from valve cover. Inlet and outlet water pipes removed from engine. oil cooler removed [not essential, but makes getting to the front lower crankcase bolts much easier] sump, oil pick up, oil & water pump removed Then I hit the only real problem. I'd already removed the rotor [flywheel] while the engine was in the frame - it's easier that way. But when I came to remove the stator, one of the three bolts holding it in place rounded off. After trying various methods without success, I introduced it to Mr Dremel and cut the head of the bolt. Inevitably the stator was slightly damaged in the process - not that I care as I've got a spare from engine no.1. So, now I've got the remains of the bolt sticking out of the [upper] crankcase. There's a good couple of cm's showing so hopefully I can get it out. Anyone got any top tips for removal? I don't have a stud extractor but could get one. Alternatively I was thinking of locking a couple of nuts on to it. anyway with the stator gone, the final act of the day was to remove the lower crankcase bolts removed and split the cases. At this point I ran out of time and daylight so I decided to leave the gearbox to another day. But we're almost there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gurninman Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Muchos progress yesterday, despite the shite weather. sadly no photos as I forgot to take my phone, but it's no different to engine no.1 Engine No.2 was stripped down with the following done thermostat & coolant pipes from valve cover. Inlet and outlet water pipes removed from engine. oil cooler removed [not essential, but makes getting to the front lower crankcase bolts much easier] sump, oil pick up, oil & water pump removed Then I hit the only real problem. I'd already removed the rotor [flywheel] while the engine was in the frame - it's easier that way. But when I came to remove the stator, one of the three bolts holding it in place rounded off. After trying various methods without success, I introduced it to Mr Dremel and cut the head of the bolt. Inevitably the stator was slightly damaged in the process - not that I care as I've got a spare from engine no.1. So, now I've got the remains of the bolt sticking out of the [upper] crankcase. There's a good couple of cm's showing so hopefully I can get it out. Anyone got any top tips for removal? I don't have a stud extractor but could get one. Alternatively I was thinking of locking a couple of nuts on to it. anyway with the stator gone, the final act of the day was to remove the lower crankcase bolts removed and split the cases. At this point I ran out of time and daylight so I decided to leave the gearbox to another day. But we're almost there.... I reckon if you've got room to get a couple of nuts on the thread, that's got to be favourite.Usually works well enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I reckon if you've got room to get a couple of nuts on the thread, that's got to be favourite.Usually works well enough This, and get a blow torch onto the bolt before hand, so long as it isn't sat next to a load of cables, rubber bits, soft furnishings etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 This, and get a blow torch onto the bolt before hand, so long as it isn't sat next to a load of cables, rubber bits, soft furnishings etc. good thinking, a mate had also suggested the same. with the head taken off the bolt, the stator is now removed so there's no soft furnishings nearby - just the end of the crank sticking out Mrs Monkey has a cook's blowtortch which will be press-ganged into use - shhhhhh don't tell her. According to the blurb on the box it should fine: Cook`s blowtorch. Refill capacity 80ml. Ideal for caramelizing sugar, crisping joints of meat, skinning tomatoes peppers etc and helping to loosen threadlock on a stuck stator bolt. Can also be used for applying heat to man-vegetables if the blowtorch is returned covered in swarf and oily fingerprints. Butane gas not included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuelline Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 According to the blurb on the box it should fine: Cook`s blowtorch. Refill capacity 80ml. Ideal for caramelizing sugar, crisping joints of meat, skinning tomatoes peppers etc and helping to loosen threadlock on a stuck stator bolt. Can also be used for applying heat to man-vegetables if the blowtorch is returned covered in swarf and oily fingerprints. Butane gas not included. Arf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Does pretty much say stick it in the oven and then wave blow torch at it. Get it done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 So, now I've got the remains of the bolt sticking out of the [upper] crankcase. There's a good couple of cm's showing so hopefully I can get it out. Anyone got any top tips for removal? I don't have a stud extractor but could get one. Alternatively I was thinking of locking a couple of nuts on to it. anyway with the stator gone, the final act of the day was to remove the lower crankcase bolts removed and split the cases. At this point I ran out of time and daylight so I decided to leave the gearbox to another day. But we're almost there.... I managed to get a few hours down the garage over the weekend, and good progress as a result. first off the headless stator bolt was tackled and came out, no problem - phew! so with the crankcases split, the output shaft was lifted clear. The dogs on 2nd and 3rd are showing wear, and so are the selector forks with the selector forks and drum removed I set to removing the input shaft... only to find that two of three Torx screws started to round off. Noooooooooooo! Not again I decided to 'phone a friend'* who gave me some sage advice regarding a blowtorch and an impact driver. With heat duly applied from Mrs Monkey's blowtorch and some fucking good wallops** the offending pair o'bastards were removed and the input shaft came out. I'm not a religious man, but hallelujah! If anyone else EVER thinks about tackling an early R1 gearbox I would suggest you don't go near those screws unless you are appropriately armed. So I now have the gearboxes from two engines so the next step is to swap the bits over and then sling it all back together. More to follow soon, hopefully *thank you a certain Mark White of M&M Motorcycles. I love you **and yes I have a massive bruise on my hand to show for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 It might be worth considering getting the dogs back-cut before you assemble your gear box...... Any recommendations, and idea of cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Try BSD or Nova as I've used both of them in the past..... Thanks. Funnily enought I just googled Nova and gave them a call. They suggested it was not a good idea. he said, 'is it a track/race bike when you're going to have the gearbox in bits all the time?' I said 'no' and he said 'then don't bother' Apparently it provides good results initially but as the hardening is damaged as part of the undercutting, the gears wear quickly afterwards as a result. So.... nice idea, but I'll be sticking with standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 So I now have the gearboxes from two engines so the next step is to swap the bits over and then sling it all back together. More to follow soon, hopefully And Lo! there was some more twirling of the spanners in the Batcave at the weekend Gearbox input shaft from engine no.1 - with knackered casing from stuck fastener - ready to start no.1 shaft disassembled no.2 engine shaft also now disassembled all the bits from no.1 shaft transferred over onto no.2 shaft, with new circlips fitted, now ready for installation into this input shaft now installed followed by the selector drum & forks, and the output shaft and with the gearbox back in the crankcases go back together finally feels like it is starting to come together and there is some light at the end of the tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BudgetBoy Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Nice work so far mate. Not much more to go now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Nice work so far mate. Not much more to go now.. yep it definitely feels like it's all coming togther. Mrs Monkey! was away at the weekend so in betweeen some other stuff I managed to make some progress. oil/water pump & sundries installed mmmmm check out my sump, my sump, my lovely shiny sump [sing it like 'lady lumps' by the Black Eyed Peas] I thought about eating my dinner off it, but didn't want to have to clean it again sump, water pipes and oil cooler all installed And that was it for engine no.2, for the time being. Only things left are the alternator, clutch and gearchange mechanism - which I've already tested - I'll probably put those back in once the engine is in the frame. and onwards.... to the valve clearances, Batman! I've never touched the valves on a motorbike engine, the last time I did anything like that was on an A-reg mini when I was a spotty yoof, being shown how by me Dad. So I thought I would experiment on the now-defunct engine no.1. I dragged it into the light & bolted the lower crankcase back on, so I could stand it upright and work on the top end. I thought it would be useful to have a dry run on the knackered engine, and also get all the shims out in case I need any for engine no.2 And it didn't prove to be too tricky, though time consuming as you have to be ultra careful. But the end result was a box of 20 shims and I'm now confident on tackling the job again - and it shouldn't take as long. The weekend's star tool is my magnet-on-a-stick-with-bonus-LED, pictured top, which I bought from Robert Dyas for a quid or something and have never used. It is exactly the same size as an R1 valve follower interestingly there's an article in this month's PB. Have to agree I would NOT fancy tackling this with the engine in the frame, it must be an absolute bloody nightmare. Just as well they're only checked every 24k miles on the R1. So..... almost there. Next up is to do the valve clearances on no.2 engine. I'll try and get some more decent pics to show what's involved. Then get it back in the frame and connect it all up. Stay on target Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 You may have a job measuring the inlets with them there gert big feeler gauges , Yamaha do a set of special thin ones , PM me if you need some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 yep it definitely feels like it's all coming togther. Mrs Monkey! was away at the weekend so in betweeen some other stuff I managed to make some progress. oil/water pump & sundries installed mmmmm check out my sump, my sump, my lovely shiny sump [sing it like 'lady lumps' by the Black Eyed Peas] I was doing the same over Sat/Early Sunday, only there was a lot of No1 Big End Shell floating around in the Sump. Same old prob, some twot had changed the clutch including the basket and not got the oil pump drive sorted. They'd then run it in the paddock listening to the nasty noises, long enough for the Big End shells to climb over themselves stuffing the piston onto the cyliner head. Lovely. I'm in the market for a new crank. Good to see yours coming together. PS you have mail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 You may have a job measuring the inlets with them there gert big feeler gauges , Yamaha do a set of special thin ones , PM me if you need some I checked a few on this engine before I started removing the shims, and the gauges seemed to work ok. They're metric ones and the smallest is 0.04mm I think. I was doing the same over Sat/Early Sunday, only there was a lot of No1 Big End Shell floating around in the Sump. Same old prob, some twot had changed the clutch including the basket and not got the oil pump drive sorted. They'd then run it in the paddock listening to the nasty noises, long enough for the Big End shells to climb over themselves stuffing the piston onto the cyliner head. Lovely. I'm in the market for a new crank. Good to see yours coming together. PS you have mail oh dear. That sounds like a very expensive mistake Cheers. It's been a lot of work but I enjoy spannering and I have learnt a lot. Once I've got engine no.2 up and running I may do a bit more investigating into the cause of engine no.1's demise. PS no mail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 PS PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 some more progress made on Saturday morning - valve clearances have all been checked on engine no.2. The exhaust valves were all well in tolerance, apart from on cylinder No.1 - one was bang on the lower limit [0.21mm] and the other fractionally under [0.20mm] So I accessed the buckets and checked the shims fitted. I'm pleased I bothered to take all the shims out of engine No.1, as I had the right size shims available - these were installed & the clearance brought back into spec. pic shows exhaust cam holders removed All of the intake valve clearances are in spec, but only just. Recommend clearance is 0.11-0.20mm. Cylinders 1-3 were all at 0.11-0.12, with No.4 at 0.14-0.15 So I could just leave them all alone... But as three cylinders are only just in tolerance - and look to be going tight - it's likely that they'll go out of spec before they need checking again, in another 26k miles. So.... while I've got the engine out and the head off I think I'll probably just do them as well, for peace of mind. I ran out of time to go any further though, so checking/replacing the intake shims will have to wait until next time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 It's not too difficult a job is it ? , the main thing is time especially doing it in the frame , perhaps you can understand why dealers charge so much for doing it now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis203 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Cool thread I done the valve clearances on my 98 R1 last month with the engine in the frame. I've only ever done the valves on a single cylinder KTM with locknut adjusters so the R1 was a bit more involved I changed quite a few shims as they had tightened up but the hardest part was getting the cam chain tensioner back in because there is hardly any room to screw the cam chain tensioner out so it can be fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted February 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 It's not too difficult a job is it ? , the main thing is time especially doing it in the frame , perhaps you can understand why dealers charge so much for doing it now No..... it's not too difficult a job. But it is time consuming - well it is for me because it's the first time I've done the valves on a bike, and I want to make sure I don't f*** it right up. You have to be pretty organised and methodical about it, though. Cool thread I done the valve clearances on my 98 R1 last month with the engine in the frame. I've only ever done the valves on a single cylinder KTM with locknut adjusters so the R1 was a bit more involved I changed quite a few shims as they had tightened up but the hardest part was getting the cam chain tensioner back in because there is hardly any room to screw the cam chain tensioner out so it can be fitted. Cheers. You're a braver man than me. It must have been a nightmare with the engine in the frame. Was that the first time they've been checked on yours - what's the mileage? Out of interest how many were out of spec and which ones - mine were mostly the intake side. And yes that CCT is a right bugger! I removed mine when the engine first went. Getting it back was a right arse of a job. I'm hoping to crack on with it tonight and get the intake shims sorted, so the engine can go back in the frame at the weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted February 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 I'm hoping to crack on with it tonight and get the intake shims sorted, so the engine can go back in the frame at the weekend well I managed to grab a few hours on the bike last night and completed the valve clearances. I re-shimmed all the intake valves back into spec, rather than have them lingering on the limit of tight. and with everything back I wizzed the crank round a handful of times and..... well fuck me everything was ok and the valves didn't smash themselves into the pistons, like I was expecting a set of new plugs went in - correctly gapped, of course - and the valve cover went back on. Also sorted the radiator out. The top bolt that holds the expansion bottle on the side had stripped its thread years ago and I'd just bodged it with a cable tie in the past. But I didn't like that. I took in to a metalwork place at the Studios to have a look - they reckoned it was a bit risky tapping and re-threading the hole - so instead they welded a bit of ally in place to replace the bolt, with a hole for an R-clip. Top job! but I had to remove the temp sender and fan switch - recommended before the welding. So they went back in place last night as well, all suitably sealed. Soooo.... it's getting there. With a bit of luck and 6 Nations schedule / hangover permitting I am hoping to get the engine back in the frame this weekend and get it all connected up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis203 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 No..... it's not too difficult a job. But it is time consuming - well it is for me because it's the first time I've done the valves on a bike, and I want to make sure I don't f*** it right up. You have to be pretty organised and methodical about it, though. Cheers. You're a braver man than me. It must have been a nightmare with the engine in the frame. Was that the first time they've been checked on yours - what's the mileage? Out of interest how many were out of spec and which ones - mine were mostly the intake side. And yes that CCT is a right bugger! I removed mine when the engine first went. Getting it back was a right arse of a job. I'm hoping to crack on with it tonight and get the intake shims sorted, so the engine can go back in the frame at the weekend I don't think it had ever been done on my bike before, the mileage was about 28000. I ended up changing 8 shims in total, 5 intake and 3 exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Soooo.... it\\\'s getting there. With a bit of luck and 6 Nations schedule / hangover permitting I am hoping to get the engine back in the frame this weekend and get it all connected up. and much progress was made, despite the frankly shite weather all weekend which meant I was pretty much confined to working inside. gearchange mechanism back in, plus thermostat along with some lovely new samco hoses & clips ready to go back in - I think the frame had forgotten what the engine looked like engine back in place, ready for mounting bolts et voila! all bolts in and torqued up onwards... and upwards clutch basket going back in followed by the slipper clutch and finished off with clutch cover, clutch cable and NRC timing cover starter motor in and connected up, then onto the left hand side to get the stator & rotor back in last job before time ran out was to get the carbs back onto the engine ....only the radiator, coils, airbox and exhaust to do before I can fire her up I'd set myself a deadline to have it ready for the beginning of March. I think I'm going to miss that but I don't want to rush it and fuck something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendo Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Good work. That stand/lift combo looks belter can you tell me a bit more about it? Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Good work. That stand/lift combo looks belter can you tell me a bit more about it? Andy Hi Andy yes it is a belter and makes life so much easier. Details are in this thread, a couple of pages ago. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 ....only the radiator, coils, airbox and exhaust to do before I can fire her up I'd set myself a deadline to have it ready for the beginning of March. I think I'm going to miss that but I don't want to rush it and fuck something up. and so here we go - it's the final countdown der der der derrrr, de de de de der etc finally a dry day so I dragged the bike out of the gloom of the garage so I could work in daylight Carbs all reconnected, coils, airbox, fuel pump all fitted and radiator plumbed in with new top mount for coolant bottle to replace the original threaded hole and finally the exhaust goes back on.... mmmmm akrapovic goodness with everything back, it's time for some oil and coolant, and the tank on with some fresh juice... ...and she's ready to test.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 and here goes. Months of blood, sweat and gears it's the moment of truth I don't mind admitting I am properly bricking it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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