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Unofficial P3 Project.


morepower

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Heds The satin finish is to get the look of the Pre-preg to be even all over the surface. If it is polished then if the polishing is uneven then the part will show it up. Plus a satin finish gives the look of dry carbon like F1 cars use and if the part wants a high gloss show finish then it need to be Lacquered anyway as the resin is effected by UV light and will change and have less clarity. So a satin finish is easier to spray as the is so little surface resin in pre-preg that sanding it to get a "key" would hit the carbon underneath..So satin is the best compromise.

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Gotcha. Makes perfect sense, thanks for the explanation. :thumbsup:

Yes it does..... But I was going to polish the crap out of it and make it as glossy as I could..... Only when the mould maker told me what and why... I thought "OK that makes sense" Plus I started to wet and dry the mould and oh my God... The resin is so hard it took ages to just see where it was having an effect! The mould has had 12 hours of Post Cure up to 60 degrees and needs another 12 hours up to 100 degrees. To both fully harden it and cook out any styrene in the resin. The mould is about 12 to 15mm thick and will only have 2 layers of Carbon in them at 0.6mm thickness and I have seen moulds this thick and thicker crack the surface when the moulds were left too cool with the pre-preg left in them as it doesnt expand and contract the same way as the Glass fibre mould. So I am doing all I can to make the mould as good as possible and strong too. Would hate to wreck £5000 worth of moulds the first time they get used....

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Would hate to wreck £5000 worth of moulds the first time they get used....

Yeah, that'd ruin your day definitely.

As for the polish or not to polish debate, I remember that the firm my dad worked for had huge hull moulds for the speedboats that were polished within an inch of their lives stacked up awaiting their turn to be used. As a child I found it a fascinating process, and the fumes from the various chemicals were great! ^_^

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The wet lay moulds I have are polished and although could be done a bit more. I lacquer them as the gel coat is supposed to be clear and does discolour with UV light and a coat of lacquer does help stop that. I am trying a new resin that is too thin to be used alone as a gel coat but mixed with the existing gel it should give more clarity..

(Those on Farcebook may have seen this already)

img2773d.jpg

The new resin used as supplied.

The existing "Clear" gel coat next to the crystal clear one...

img2784d.jpg

Both have coins in them and both are on the top of a bright yellow polish can lid.

I have to mix a hybrid resin to get the clear stuff to coat the sides of the mould as it would just run off.. But I am making some parts right now with the mixed gel coat to see how clear it looks on the part. The pink one to be fair is a lot clearer than a general purpose gel coat and costs about 30% more. If the mixed one works it would make it about 80% more than a general puropse clear gel coat resin but I am trying to make the best parts possible and it is only my own lay up techniques that are the biggest hurdle... I am still learing and this time last year I had never made a fibre glass part never mind moulds or show carbon...

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as interesting as the carbon is i want to see your bike finished! are you going to the ring with this one?

Dont think this would be much good at the ring and the carbon stuff is sort of filling in some of the info on what has to be done for the bodywork as well as other bits I have to make in carbon too.. I am stuck until the seat and fuel tank monocoque are finished then I can get on with putting the bike together... I am also sorting out some info on the 300cc kit and some pipes to go with them. I just have too many other things in the way to get much done at the moment....

My first target is a test at Mallory and if that goes well to get a sub 1 minute lap there. After that I guess it will be Cadwell and a PB trackday in the Inters or IF the Mallory test goes well the fast group. I would like to get my own lap times down to somewhere close to my old 350lc at Cadwell and do a sub 1m 55 lap if possible I managed 1m47 on the LC but that was before they put the chicaine in place.. I would guess that has added 5 or 6 seconds per lap.

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i cant say anything really my bike is in bits and i have not even attempted to fit the fairings i got off you yet, i keep getting distracted by my short track bike!

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i cant say anything really my bike is in bits and i have not even attempted to fit the fairings i got off you yet, i keep getting distracted by my short track bike!

Slacker......

:icon_blackeye:

Haha... You know if you are stuck later this year you can bring it over and I will help you get it fitted up..... Speedy Sie will be sorting out the clock/fairing mount....

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Soon as I have them made you can have one mate... Same deal as the carbon version of the body work... ;)

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I would like to get my own lap times down to somewhere close to my old 350lc at Cadwell and do a sub 1m 55 lap if possible I managed 1m47 on the LC but that was before they put the chicaine in place.. I would guess that has added 5 or 6 seconds per lap.

From what I have seen the chicane only added about 4 seconds at most. You brake a lot later coming up to the mountain as you are not carrying so much speed. A KR1-S has the 250 lap record at the new track at around 1.39! Did have a quick rider on it though :rolleyes:

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From what I have seen the chicane only added about 4 seconds at most. You brake a lot later coming up to the mountain as you are not carrying so much speed. A KR1-S has the 250 lap record at the new track at around 1.39! Did have a quick rider on it though :rolleyes:

Seems my old laptime on the LC was not too shabby. First time on the full circuit in a practice that let us use it, as club meetings back then were on the Club circuit only. Never got to race on the Full circuit and had to use crappy road tyres on the rear of the LC as the Dunlop race tyre was too big and horrid so a quick change and used a Metzler ME99 rear and a Michelin race front, stock chassis and 1980's brakes. I know my club circuit lap was quite good with low 1.12 to high 1.11's and the formula LC lap was about 1.16 to high 1.15's.

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Thanks...... Hate to think I would "cheat" to get power using a 270cc kit or a 300cc kit which doesnt rev as high... It has to be a screaming 250....

Bump ;-)

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Bump ;-)

Erm Ahh.... well you see.... Erm...It's like this....... .... I have some wrecked 250 barrels and now a spare 250cc motor which is in the bike and will stay there until I can get the 300 built. Could be next year at the rate I am going...... I would not race a 300cc kit and the kit if it ever gets made by Ron is cheap... £350 for fully ported liners, reshaped heads and O Rings. Plus the cost of pistons. The 250 is stock for now I may get some more 250cc barrels and have them done by Ron but he claims his 300cc kits used in the old Suzuki T6 and aircooled GT250's rev to 13,000 rpm and wants to see what the RGV motor would be like to do... I am not going to say no to that especially as The Tuning works are £1740.00!! If I can get the kits made up for less than £450.00 it would be daft not to offer them to customers... LOL...

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Seen this stuff on ebay for sale. Nice work. Bid on a few but always seemed to get outbid sad.gif

which bits are you after? i can get him to contact you if you like? i have a full set of bodywork

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There was some nice carbon fibre swing arm and frame covers he had for sale but as i said i kept getting out bid by like 1p each time!! AHHH I think they were seconds but that wouldn't bother me as they're for my track bike.

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  • 2 weeks later...

wow!!! what a thread!!! firstly hello from Greece! what a bike! i am very jealous about your carbon things.. I've a friend who is making polyester thing for trucks. the only thing i didn't understand is how the vacuum bag is used. iwanna buy a vj22. found here in greece with an engine (unknown) proble for 250euros. the whole bike. its a pit the shipping cost is big.. i would like a full fairing kit to fit on if i buy it. i also have zxr400l to transform into a low cost track bike.

edit just saw how http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=354042334637148&set=a.354042077970507.76895.130497340324983&type=3&permPage=1

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry have been lax and not updated.... I have been keeping a low profile until some bad debt is sorted as the guy who owes me the money does snoop on here and anything I say that he can try and wiggle out of paying he keeps trying to use.... The guy owes me over £12,000 now! So it is being delt with through the solicitors...

Anyway....

I can make more covers.... PM me...

I have done a bit more on the kit since I last posted....

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Material test in Pre-preg carbon..

img3205m.jpg

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sam1065copy.jpg

And here is the weight if of the semi trimmed belly pan.Although I have got the fully trimmed weight down a bit more... Closer to 400grams.

img3240w.jpg

Not bad for a part that is 3 feet long.

img3242fe.jpg

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Thanks... it has been a bloody long journey to get this far. Now I can sort of see the end..The pattern maker has a few things to do.... One is the tank base. But that has been started and should be finished soon....

img3225e.jpg

The other thing is just sorting out the seams and getting the surface finish even all over so it looks uniform. That is about it.....

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easy! should be done by the morning ;)

Just not sure which morning.......

(Runs off to shout at Vic again for stopping....)

Luckily he did get some more done this weekend. it is just the actual final fit of the base to the tank that is causing headaches.....

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Looking very tidy, nice work......just remember the occasional breath of fresh air to clear the head lol

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ooo id love some carbon bits for my KR when its done :ph34r:

What do you want to have for it? Some of the simple stuff you can do yourself quite easily. Other stuff will need moulds making but I now have numbers for 2 or 3 pattern makers who can make moulds for me and soon I am hoping the pre-preg oven will be done and in the other workshop.

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