whats the score with the new r6 exhaust system?

[landy63]

Hi all,

just removed my exhaust system on an 09 r6 and was just wondering if i need to retain any bits for a new race system?

im sure i can bin the exup cables and the motor its self is inside the std end can anyway but the o2/lambar sensor in the cat is worrying me a little.

Its going to be my race bike next year so dont give a stuff about a light on the dash if this is the only consequence but if its going to need serrious dyno time to over come then ill think twice.

obviously ill have the bike set up after ive had the new system on but just wondering if ill encounter problems?

Cheers

Damien

[roadracer]

Hi all,

just removed my exhaust system on an 09 r6 and was just wondering if i need to retain any bits for a new race system?

im sure i can bin the exup cables and the motor its self is inside the std end can anyway but the o2/lambar sensor in the cat is worrying me a little.

Its going to be my race bike next year so dont give a stuff about a light on the dash if this is the only consequence but if its going to need serrious dyno time to over come then ill think twice.

obviously ill have the bike set up after ive had the new system on but just wondering if ill encounter problems?

Cheers

Damien

Damien, the R6 does not throw a warning light when the O2 sensor is removed, only when the exup motor(behind the rear-shock) is removed and left unplugged.

It's best to remove ONLY the exup cables, but for the extra weight savings Dynojet do an exup-motor eliminator fuse where you can remove the little electric motor entirely without throwing a warning light on the dash.

The aftermarket exhausts(most come with a bung welded in to refit the O2 sensor, should you need one) do need a fair bit of tweaking for more power, and will run a decent bit lean even with the stock air filter.

I have the Dynojet PCV with Autotune and wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust on my R6, and does a decent job of keeping things tuned properly and lets me see what the engine is doing fuelling-wise, but for optimum power on track you'll need a dyno run to verify the most powerful air to fuel ratios for the bike to tune to.

Big gains can be had from running the bike in properly, and there is a plethora of chassis/engine info which is easily found if you know where to look.

Cheers

[landy63]

Thanks roadracer,

Ive since had a look around and realised that there is a hole on most aftermarket kits for the 02 sensor.

As for the new power commander whats the thing like? ive heard people saying the new auto tune isnt great, especially if your gonna be using the bike for race/track only?

Ive been advised to buy a pc III and get some decent maps set up on a dyno rather than use the auto tune on a pc5?

Id love to be proved wrong as on paper the auto tune feature sounds brill

cheers

[roadracer]

Thanks roadracer,

Ive since had a look around and realised that there is a hole on most aftermarket kits for the 02 sensor.

As for the new power commander whats the thing like? ive heard people saying the new auto tune isnt great, especially if your gonna be using the bike for race/track only?

Ive been advised to buy a pc III and get some decent maps set up on a dyno rather than use the auto tune on a pc5?

Id love to be proved wrong as on paper the auto tune feature sounds brill

cheers

Well apart from being old technology, the pc3 isnt that much cheaper is it?

The PC5 can be mapped on a dyno in the same way as the pc3, only with an added Autotune kit you can keep the map EXACTLY as the tuner wants it. No changes on race-day when the weather has changed from the dyno-day.

The Autotune comes set with pre-existing A/F ratio targets from dynojet, which do work well and the bike will run MUCH better than any downloaded map by far.

You can "play" with the AFR's at any time and get the bike to tune to whatever you want, but for optimum power you'll want a dyno run to find the A/F ratios that give best power output. After that, the bike will tune itself all the time and keep the A/F ratio to whatever the tuner has entered in that particular "cell", say for example "13.2 AFR" at 12,000rpm 100% throttle. You could also make a map for fuel economy if you wanted, and the maps can be switched back and forth on the PC5 as well as the ability to switch Autotune on/off with a wired-in switch.

There are some particular issues with autotuning but are very easily overcome(PM me if you want details) and if you don't want it to tune mid-race for absolute reliability you can wire in a switch to flick the Autotune on/off at any moment you want. The "issues" are inherent with all on-the-fly "interceptor" type fuel mappers and not a particular problem with the Dynojet kits(you get the same issues on a Bazzaz, for example).

There is argument to say that the PC5 isn't the ultimate in engine tuning, and in the big picture it is actually quite crude in it's purpose, but as long as you know what you are doing it will give much better results than just a static PC map. In my opinion the only way to beat a well-tuned Dynojet "system" equipped bike is to have a kit YEC ECU, which, although it gives more accurate readings of sensors and FAR more control over the bike, well, good luck with Joe Racer using that, especially getting the $500 cord to connect it to your computer(thanks Yamaha). Lol.

The Bazzaz doesn't autotune either, you need to stop the bike and accept the map after each riding session which is a bit pointless if it doesn't keep the AFR's where they should be mid race. Do some research on the systems and you'll find the info you need.

The cheapest option is the get a PC3 and have it dyno mapped which will be absolutely sufficient for Club racing. For a map that stays where it should, a PC5 is definitely worth the money. Top shelf is the YEC kit ECU which is shit hot but won't be missed unless you're datalogging at national level.

Also, the stock O2 sensor is only narrowband 80's tech, only works at part throttle and will not keep the bike "tuned" to the new exhaust. The new Dynojet sensor is wideband and picks up everything from idle to redline at full throttle. Best bet is to use the bung provided with the race exhaust system and get a base map at the very least until the bike is sorted out.