jaycee Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 BRAKE BLEEDING!!!!!! AAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHGHGHHHHH Been out in the garage for a few hours fittin my new calipers and master cylinder. Easy peasy you think, so did I until it came time to replace the fluid. I have over the years tried various devices and methods and a guy at an MOT staion gave me this advice. Get a large syringe, fit a small length of pipe between it and bleed nipple, fill the thing up with brake fluid and the system will automatically bleed as the fluid will push the air before it until it reaches the reservoir. So i've been doing it like this for 3 or 4 years now no problem, except tonight. I filled both hoses up until they just started to fill ther reservoir as normal and then topped it up to the brim so that it didn't empty when the pistons pushed back out. pumped away at the lever for 20 minutes and still no bloody pressure, the pistons haven't even come out FFS. In disgust I tied back the lever and came back in. I'll try the old school method tomorrow. Any other suggestions welcomed. What little jobs do you hate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 How do I bleed the master cylinder seperately? Is it not all just one big closed loop? I did do the left and right calipers in that order, I always do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Connect all the brake lines up. If its a radial M/C then bleed at the nipple on the body of the cylinder. If its a standard cylinder then crack the banjo at the M/C a touch and bleed there. Any time I cant get brakes to bleed up, I have cured it by bleeding the MC first. I think that a bubble of air gets trapped in the cylinder.....this doesn't stop the cylinder from pushing fluid down the lines but you can never get pressure in them until you shift the bubble by bleeding the cylinder. Thank you oh Great One! I'll try this tomorrow, can't be arsed to slide acroos the frozen wastes of my garden to the garage again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 I used to hate bleeding brakes after a caliper rebuild but since i got meself a Mityvac its almost a pleasure. 30 mins max now from empty system to fully bled brakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Have done as Zak suggested, took all of 30 seconds to get firm brake lever. Job jobbed, thanks mate. Have oredered a mityvac too, more shiny tools that hardly ever get used, but nice to have, like my brake piston spreader and my EZ-outs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy63 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 No worries...glad you got it sorted. The bill is in the post, cash, cheques of Paypal accepted. oh zak master of knowledge, to test you im going to throw another brake bleeding question at you.... how on earth do you effectively bleed the back brake on the old rsv mille? (98-03) if u have a solution for this ur a legend!!! Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy63 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 lol i fought so.... i dont even have the bike anymore but i never could use the rear brake, id blead it and within 10 mins its was gone again, i heard people suggesting u had to hang it from the passenger footpeg to do a proper job or even completely disconnect it due to the brembo setup?? I suppose its one of lifes little mysterys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomfoolery Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Is it to do with being too close to the exhaust/rear cylinder? I've heard people using an R6 setup that works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 my old 996R was the same. wasn't really a problem though as the engine braking was more than enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy63 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Is it to do with being too close to the exhaust/rear cylinder? I've heard people using an R6 setup that works. yeah its to do with distance to the master cylinder, i spoke at length with wakefield aprilia and they didnt have a clue how to solve it other than running a different setup i only had it 9 month and sold it before its mot was due so luckilly never had to sort it out, shame though cos that bike was mega. sadly i missed jap 4 power and got rid. but in fairness i own an 09 r6 now and i could do with abit of midrange/torque/comfort/decent suspension/mpg/fun!!....... the list goes on, oh how i hate my r6 as a road bike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Have oredered a mityvac too, Awesomeness. I fitted and bled the new brakes on the srad in about 15 minutes, from a completely dry system, to being perfect using one of these. In the future you'll see other brake systems with the look of a trained assasin, safe in the knowledge that, at any time of your chosing, you can defeat them, swiftly and thoroughly. Of course, filled with optimism from the from brakes, I then went over to the back one, snapped the blled nipple off and couldn't get one of the pins out, but fuck it, I needed a new paperweight anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy63 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Awesomeness. I fitted and bled the new brakes on the srad in about 15 minutes, from a completely dry system, to being perfect using one of these. In the future you'll see other brake systems with the look of a trained assasin, safe in the knowledge that, at any time of your chosing, you can defeat them, swiftly and thoroughly. Of course, filled with optimism from the from brakes, I then went over to the back one, snapped the blled nipple off and couldn't get one of the pins out, but fuck it, I needed a new paperweight anyway... mega Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy63 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 BRAKE BLEEDING!!!!!! AAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHGHGHHHHH Been out in the garage for a few hours fittin my new calipers and master cylinder. Easy peasy you think, so did I until it came time to replace the fluid. I have over the years tried various devices and methods and a guy at an MOT staion gave me this advice. Get a large syringe, fit a small length of pipe between it and bleed nipple, fill the thing up with brake fluid and the system will automatically bleed as the fluid will push the air before it until it reaches the reservoir. So i've been doing it like this for 3 or 4 years now no problem, except tonight. I filled both hoses up until they just started to fill ther reservoir as normal and then topped it up to the brim so that it didn't empty when the pistons pushed back out. pumped away at the lever for 20 minutes and still no bloody pressure, the pistons haven't even come out FFS. In disgust I tied back the lever and came back in. I'll try the old school method tomorrow. Any other suggestions welcomed. What little jobs do you hate? back to the original post lol ill tell u what i hate mate, have u ever had an nc30 and had to take the carbs off?? its a right fooker to put em back on!! the carb rubber clamps (2 screw per clamp x4) there in a right crap position where u need a really long posi drive to get em on, and if ur a real man fit a HRC cold air tray to really make it hard work in fact scrap that bit, owning an nc30 is pretty hard work and there's plenty of people on here building projects to vouch for that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollygiant Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 The worst thing I've done is carbs on a GPZ900 as there is only enough room to get them in when they are in the rubbers... So biascally you have to put each carb into a rubber the push it into the next and then the next so hopping from each rubber to the next Many skinned knuckles too!! Front brakes on the GPZ was pain too as the anti-dive units (which are attached to the forks and control the flow of fork oil) are connected to the brake system too so had to take the whole lot off and hang upside down to get the air out!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Headstock bearings. Either trying to knock the old ones out of the frame, when the frame itself is inadequatley supported and rocking gently as you hit them, and you're lying on your back, on the floor, hitting upwards. I hate that job because I might die one of these days. The other bit I hate is the other half of that; getting the bottom inner off the yoke/stem. A horrible job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_the_blat Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 oh zak master of knowledge, to test you im going to throw another brake bleeding question at you.... how on earth do you effectively bleed the back brake on the old rsv mille? (98-03) if u have a solution for this ur a legend!!! Damien landy63 - really common problem on the old Milles (and I think the new ones too? ). It has been discussed at length over on apriliaforum - see here for example. I've discussed it at length with the experts on there, I've tried bleeding the rear brake many many times and I've even tried stripping, cleaning, lubing and reassembling the master cylinder - all to no avail as the brake pedal has gone soft again within a week or two. However, I tried this fix about 6 months ago and it's been fine ever since - bleed the brake as normal so the pedal is nice and firm. Then hang a weight (e.g. paint can) on the pedal overnight (or even for a day or two) - I actually used a block of wood wedged between the pedal and crash bung but the effect is the same. It's the equivalent of tying back your front brake lever - I don't know why this works but my experience (and plenty of other people!) is that this does the job. Cheers, Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ascalon Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 I used to hate bleeding brakes after a caliper rebuild but since i got meself a Mityvac its almost a pleasure. 30 mins max now from empty system to fully bled brakes Yup, after struggling with the brakes on several ZZRs, I invested in a Mityvac and never looked back. No caliper holds fear for me now! A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 Clutches on fucking K series bimmer's , its bad enough on a standard one but you add all the police gubbins in the way and it becomes a royal pain in the ass , Alternators on ST 1300's are also fun , situated in the V , under all the injection bits ( bits IS a technical term , as is gubbins ), I used to thoroughly dislike sorting out the anti lock brakes on ST 1100's as the modulators fail fairly frequently ( £1200 a pop !!!!!!!!! ) but whilst we were quietish today i managed to repair a pair on a bike we've bought in , also had to have the carb's off and clean them out ( see nc30 carbs , similar but bigger hammer ) just got to get all the bodywork back on it tomorrow , seriously the worst job is routine servicing as it get's a little tedious after a few thousand so , as much as i moan about jobs like the above , at least they activate the brain a bit more , favourite job's are injection or electrical problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsv chris Posted December 29, 2009 Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 oh zak master of knowledge, to test you im going to throw another brake bleeding question at you.... how on earth do you effectively bleed the back brake on the old rsv mille? (98-03) if u have a solution for this ur a legend!!! Damien I took my rear caliper off the bike so i could get the bleed nipple to the highest point of the system, then bled as normal. Some trapped air came out, I suspect if you do this yours will be the same. Hey presto I can lock the rear wheel up if desired, it's not the best back brake ever but powerfull enough for bike control and town riding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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