Devon Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 how do i clean my wheels so that they can be powdercoated? do i need to remove all the original paintwork and with what? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gobert23 Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Most powder-coaters will have the wheels stripped and prepped anyways, just to make sure that the surfaces are consistent and clean... Strip the wheels of tyres, bearings (you'll know that already) and you can get the worst off with Nitromors (paint-stripper), but there's nothing like getting is 'blasted' (normally glass beads) properly. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 If your powder coaters won't strip them then you're at the wrong place. I get mine stripped and coated for £50/pair, and have once had them for £40 when I took a few in at once. When you take your bearings out, take a note of the writing on the side* then put it in ebay: you'll then find that bearings that are labelled as 'wheel bearings' are about 4 times the price as those just marketed as 'bearings'. *4 numbers usually, something like this, sometimes followed by something like 2rs or c3. 2RS simply means 2 rubber seals, which is what you want, the ones with the rubber covered sides. C3 is the tolerance, which again, is what you'd usually find the pukka manufacturers ones being. Sometimes the tolerance isn't specified on a bearing advert, but if you have a browse you might pay 50p more for ones that are specified, and I have no qualms about paying a little extra. Just to make sure you're getting the right ones, get your ruler out and measure the inside and outside diameters of the bearings, and the thickness too, and compare them to the advert, but unless you've made a typo, then the 4 digit code'll be all you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 If your powder coaters won't strip them then you're at the wrong place. I get mine stripped and coated for £50/pair, and have once had them for £40 when I took a few in at once. When you take your bearings out, take a note of the writing on the side* then put it in ebay: you'll then find that bearings that are labelled as 'wheel bearings' are about 4 times the price as those just marketed as 'bearings'. Thats fucking cheap for powder coating, never mind blasted aswell. But no, you don't need all the paint off, but most. If a powder coater normally does engineering company stuff, it's quite understandable they would not be able to blast it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 I was shopping about a bit with my yellow pages for powder coaters and it seems there's 2 teirs to the prices: Places that advertise themselves as doing wheel refurbs (expensive) and places that advertise themselves as doing rustproof coatings on railings, roller shutters etc. The price difference I found was roughly double if I went to the wheel specialists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mac Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 I was shopping about a bit with my yellow pages for powder coaters and it seems there's 2 teirs to the prices: Places that advertise themselves as doing wheel refurbs (expensive) and places that advertise themselves as doing rustproof coatings on railings, roller shutters etc. The price difference I found was roughly double if I went to the wheel specialists. Yes, but in defence of the "wheel" Specialists, they will/should know about masking off and protecting bearing seats and disc mounting faces and your wheels would be powdercoated and cured at the correct temperture rather than lumped in with a load of steel railings etc I'd sooner pay the extra and have a pair of wheels come back that were mint and usable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beek Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 I was shopping about a bit with my yellow pages for powder coaters and it seems there's 2 teirs to the prices: Places that advertise themselves as doing wheel refurbs (expensive) and places that advertise themselves as doing rustproof coatings on railings, roller shutters etc. The price difference I found was roughly double if I went to the wheel specialists. Good points Lorenzo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 Yes, but in defence of the "wheel" Specialists, they will/should know about masking off and protecting bearing seats and disc mounting faces and your wheels would be powdercoated and cured at the correct temperture rather than lumped in with a load of steel railings etc I'd sooner pay the extra and have a pair of wheels come back that were mint and usable. I know that it's no certainty that your local rust proofing place is going to do a decent job, but I've had 4 pairs of wheels done, plus a set of car wheels, some fork lowers and a few other bits, and I've never had anything other than decent finish, tough coated bits and bobs, with all the little fixing holes etc masked off perfectly. I'm sure if you explained which bit you didn't want to be coated they'd sort it all out for you. Anyway, powdercoated stuff's good as you get to play the 'guess what colour his face'll be when he opens the door' game. There's nothing quite so amusing as being confronted by a man with a bright orange head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 I know that it's no certainty that your local rust proofing place is going to do a decent job, but I've had 4 pairs of wheels done, plus a set of car wheels, some fork lowers and a few other bits, and I've never had anything other than decent finish, tough coated bits and bobs, with all the little fixing holes etc masked off perfectly. I'm sure if you explained which bit you didn't want to be coated they'd sort it all out for you. Anyway, powdercoated stuff's good as you get to play the 'guess what colour his face'll be when he opens the door' game. There's nothing quite so amusing as being confronted by a man with a bright orange head. Did he then kiss you in a 'You've been Tango'd' style? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mac Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 I know that it's no certainty that your local rust proofing place is going to do a decent job, but I've had 4 pairs of wheels done, plus a set of car wheels, some fork lowers and a few other bits, and I've never had anything other than decent finish, tough coated bits and bobs, with all the little fixing holes etc masked off perfectly. I'm sure if you explained which bit you didn't want to be coated they'd sort it all out for you. Anyway, powdercoated stuff's good as you get to play the 'guess what colour his face'll be when he opens the door' game. There's nothing quite so amusing as being confronted by a man with a bright orange head. I guess i've been unlucky then, 2 sets of wheels ruined by two seperate companies who despite saying they knew they were doing clearly didn't. The wheels in my TDR (far right pic in my sig) are away for powdercoating at the moment. £70 for the pair and I know they will come back perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Posted September 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 so if the bearing that ive just taken out has: 6004du on the side of it then i should just focus on the 6004, but what does the du mean? is that just the rubber seal around it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gurninman Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 Yep, I believe it means the same as 2rs, which means double rubber shields Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemonkey Posted September 10, 2009 Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 Wow, yeah, proper cheap! Where did you go for that Lorenzo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Posted September 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 whats the difference between this one: 6004 C3 High Speed Bearing BG6004C3 £ 3.03 and this one: 6004 2RS Double Rubber Sealed Bearing BG60042RS £ 4.04 buy thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefatman Posted September 11, 2009 Report Share Posted September 11, 2009 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rubber-Sealed-Ball-B...id=p3286.c0.m14 There you go, pound a piece Powder coating is cheap anywhere, just go in and ask rather than phoning up. My local place charges £30 + vat a wheel if you phone up. If you go in its £20 a wheel all in. Tom_mac must have been unlucky to get a bad one, i've used 5 different powder coating companies to do wheels now, 4 of them with an amazing finish, 1 where the powder was on a bit thick but still ok. It is there job doing it so most of them get it right, most of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 11, 2009 Report Share Posted September 11, 2009 Wow, yeah, proper cheap! Where did you go for that Lorenzo? The imaginatively titled 'Rust Proofing Company', Vauxhall Works, Greg Street, Reddish, Stockport, Cheshire, SK5 7BR. And, if you go there, I'm going to get my guess in early and say he'll be pale blue. Obviously, barring somewhere fucking your wheels up and you having to start from scratch, you can spend £100 on getting your wheels coated and £35 on a set of 4 bearings from the main dealers, or spend £40 on getting them coated down some backstreet place like me, then £12 on bearings from a bearing specialist. That's a bloody big difference in price. Last go I also took the spring off an old and very crusty looking shock, which then came back looking mint and helped me get a nice £50 for it on ebay, which more or less paid for the wheels being sorted on the zx7r. Thefatman showed me how to remove and refit tyres too, so that bit was free too. Great stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemonkey Posted September 11, 2009 Report Share Posted September 11, 2009 The imaginatively titled 'Rust Proofing Company', Vauxhall Works, Greg Street, Reddish, Stockport, Cheshire, SK5 7BR. And, if you go there, I'm going to get my guess in early and say he'll be pale blue. Obviously, barring somewhere fucking your wheels up and you having to start from scratch, you can spend £100 on getting your wheels coated and £35 on a set of 4 bearings from the main dealers, or spend £40 on getting them coated down some backstreet place like me, then £12 on bearings from a bearing specialist. That's a bloody big difference in price. Last go I also took the spring off an old and very crusty looking shock, which then came back looking mint and helped me get a nice £50 for it on ebay, which more or less paid for the wheels being sorted on the zx7r. Thefatman showed me how to remove and refit tyres too, so that bit was free too. Great stuff. Cool, thanks for that! ....I might have a go at finding somewhere more local though. It won't hurt to try a couple of wheels on someone and then give 'em a stackload more if they do a good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 smokes 4 ever Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 If your powder coaters won't strip them then you're at the wrong place. I get mine stripped and coated for £50/pair, and have once had them for £40 when I took a few in at once. When you take your bearings out, take a note of the writing on the side* then put it in ebay: you'll then find that bearings that are labelled as 'wheel bearings' are about 4 times the price as those just marketed as 'bearings'. *4 numbers usually, something like this, sometimes followed by something like 2rs or c3. 2RS simply means 2 rubber seals, which is what you want, the ones with the rubber covered sides. C3 is the tolerance, which again, is what you'd usually find the pukka manufacturers ones being. Sometimes the tolerance isn't specified on a bearing advert, but if you have a browse you might pay 50p more for ones that are specified, and I have no qualms about paying a little extra. Just to make sure you're getting the right ones, get your ruler out and measure the inside and outside diameters of the bearings, and the thickness too, and compare them to the advert, but unless you've made a typo, then the 4 digit code'll be all you need. you don't want C3 bearings for wheels bearings C3 is the code for radial clearance C3 is extra clearance and is usually used on engine internal bearings to allow expansion as they get hot to prevent them locking up solid This bloke will sort you out for any bearings and seals here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 According to this http://my.execpc.com/~davewrit/Powder.html, just make sure they are aware of the need to use lower temperature powder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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