diogo Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 wich engine oil do you guys relly most? synthetic? semy? any particular brand? wich grade? I don't know how many kms/milles my engine have so I don't know if going full synth is a good option... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 Please god no, not an oil thread....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemonkey Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 Vegetable oil...Mazola if you want the posh stuff. Never ever use olive oil (extra virgin or cheapo stuff)...it cant take the heat. Pure sesame seed oil is good it you want yer motor to smell like a Chinese takeaway on a busy Saturday. Groundnut oil gives a lovely smoky output (best used if you have a 2-stroke) HTH Coconut oil if you are worried about cholesterol? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 Snake oil is what you need, and it's just your luck that i've got some. I'll even sell it to ya cheap. Seriously though, i use halfords own brand 10w-40. Oil is oil IMO, i'd rather get 5l for £25 quid than pay £40 for 4l of Castrol or Fuchs the claims to 'boost power' or 'increase performance'. It's just marketing nonsense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diogo Posted September 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Snake oil is what you need, and it's just your luck that i've got some. I'll even sell it to ya cheap. Seriously though, i use halfords own brand 10w-40. Oil is oil IMO, i'd rather get 5l for £25 quid than pay £40 for 4l of Castrol or Fuchs the claims to 'boost power' or 'increase performance'. It's just marketing nonsense ehehhe sorry if I unburried a hatchet... guess that I'm gonna go for motul or rock oil then..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 A reasonable 10w40 semi would be plenty good enough for your engine diogo, and won't cost you thousands. I know you can't get it for bikes, but I once had to peel about a kilo of black rubbery stuff from under the cam cover off a mates ford, who'd been using asda £5/gallon oil for the last few years. Really cheap oil's not as pure as it should be, but any half decent stuff should be fine. Motul or rock oil semi synth is plenty good enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gurninman Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 If you have a Hein Gericke near, go buy their semi synth own brand gear.It's pretty good, and at £13.99 / 4l it's well priced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootall Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Fuckin impossible to buy cheap oil over here, let alone cheap good stuff. You're looking at €9.00 minimum per litre. Decnt stuff is €15.00-€20.00 a litre! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Muff Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Or that HRC stuff in last month's mag: A snip at £125 for 5l! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Seriously though, i use halfords own brand 10w-40. Oil is oil IMO, i'd rather get 5l for £25 quid than pay £40 for 4l of Castrol or Fuchs the claims to 'boost power' or 'increase performance'. It's just marketing nonsense I don't agree, or I've been brainwashed by the marketing nonsense I buy Silkolene Pro 4 [fully synthetic] 10-40 for the R1. It's not cheap at around £35 for 4 litres, but it's worth it to me. I probably change it far more frequently that I really need to, which makes it even more expensive. The oil gets changed at least 2 or 3 times a year, and not due to mileage. I'm sure it would be fine on cheaper stuff, but maybe I've got money than sense. Maybe not, I don't care. It's my bike and my money. and no, I've never had any clutch slip problems using fully synth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 I don't agree, or I've been brainwashed by the marketing nonsense I buy Silkolene Pro 4 [fully synthetic] 10-40 for the R1. It's not cheap at around £35 for 4 litres, but it's worth it to me. I probably change it far more frequently that I really need to, which makes it even more expensive. The oil gets changed at least 2 or 3 times a year, and not due to mileage. I'm sure it would be fine on cheaper stuff, but maybe I've got money than sense. Maybe not, I don't care. It's my bike and my money. and no, I've never had any clutch slip problems using fully synth. Each to their own. To be fair, if i could afford to, I'd probably put posh stuff in, but due to the miles that i do every month, I tend to change the oil every month or two. and i can't justify spending £40 quid a time on oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo S2 Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 I use Motal, and change every 2 trackdays. To be honest, I could get away with cheaper stuff, as I change it so regularly. Frequency of change is more important than quality IMO. But, as I read on here before, the Motal has the required testing, not just 'meets the approval for', therefore its good enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomfoolery Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 I've always used HG own brand and change it regularly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo S2 Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 I've always used HG own brand ... What a surprise! Changes carried out in full regulation HG pants & socks too, i'd wager... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levo Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 I've always used HG own brand and as it leaks out of the gs regularly. At trade discount too I take it.................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_R1 Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 My R1 has used Motul 5100 from new and is showing 77,500 miles and runs like new. My previous YZF750R, an Australian import with 37,000km on the clock, did another 75,000 miles with me, using mainly Halfords 10/40 semi-synthetic car oil, it burnt oil at 1,000 miles per litre so I wasn't going to put posh stuff in. It was running sweetly the day I sold it, sweeter than the day I bought it as it happens, and it was still on the original clutch plates. Unless you are racing it I can't see any reason to go to the expense of fully synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhtmbowen Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 I'm using Costco semi synthetic at £40 for 15l and changing every 4,000 on the road. Pretty much anything seems to work on road bikes provided you change it regularly. I use any really good fully synthetic for racing/track use but its pointless on the road as it doesn't get the stress but doues get full of crap especially as engines get older. I get 75,000 or 3 years out of my road bikes before moving them on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 My R1 has used Motul 5100 from new and is showing 77,500 miles and runs like new. My previous YZF750R, an Australian import with 37,000km on the clock, did another 75,000 miles with me, using mainly Halfords 10/40 semi-synthetic car oil, it burnt oil at 1,000 miles per litre so I wasn't going to put posh stuff in. It was running sweetly the day I sold it, sweeter than the day I bought it as it happens, and it was still on the original clutch plates. Unless you are racing it I can't see any reason to go to the expense of fully synthetic. I'm using Costco semi synthetic at £40 for 15l and changing every 4,000 on the road. Pretty much anything seems to work on road bikes provided you change it regularly. I use any really good fully synthetic for racing/track use but its pointless on the road as it doesn't get the stress but doues get full of crap especially as engines get older. I get 75,000 or 3 years out of my road bikes before moving them on. Piccies? Love to see some serious mile bikes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Halfords is cheap enough, i've been buying Valvoline semi synth lately, £15 for 4 litres. Bargain. A lot of bike tuners use Rock oil lately. Seems to solve problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootall Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 A lot of bike tuners use Rock oil lately. Seems to solve problems. Mebbe but reckon its more to do with Rock Oil producing a 0W oil, Castrol do too and you can get some useful power gains with them. 2-3bhp on a 600 superstocker which is worth doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAMO666 Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I asked the Castrol oil rep about motor oils and he said that Castrol will guarantee their oil will still meet the API standard even when the used oil is drained from an engine as long as its changed at the recommended interval. When Tony Scott did my race engine he recommended Shell advance VSX semi-synthetic, I've used it ever since.I buy in bulk off the internet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignige Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I don't agree, or I've been brainwashed by the marketing nonsense I buy Silkolene Pro 4 [fully synthetic] 10-40 for the R1. It's not cheap at around £35 for 4 litres, but it's worth it to me. I probably change it far more frequently that I really need to, which makes it even more expensive. The oil gets changed at least 2 or 3 times a year, and not due to mileage. I'm sure it would be fine on cheaper stuff, but maybe I've got money than sense. Maybe not, I don't care. It's my bike and my money. and no, I've never had any clutch slip problems using fully synth. +1 ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_R1 Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 Halfords is cheap enough, i've been buying Valvoline semi synth lately, £15 for 4 litres. Bargain. A lot of bike tuners use Rock oil lately. Seems to solve problems. Halfords often have a bogof promo, and their oil is in 5 litre packs, so 10 litres for the price of 4 litres of Silkolene is a no-brainer for an oil burning bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morepower Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Snake oil is what you need, and it's just your luck that i've got some. I'll even sell it to ya cheap. Seriously though, i use halfords own brand 10w-40. Oil is oil IMO, i'd rather get 5l for £25 quid than pay £40 for 4l of Castrol or Fuchs the claims to 'boost power' or 'increase performance'. It's just marketing nonsense I don't agree, or I've been brainwashed by the marketing nonsense I buy Silkolene Pro 4 [fully synthetic] 10-40 for the R1. It's not cheap at around £35 for 4 litres, but it's worth it to me. I probably change it far more frequently that I really need to, which makes it even more expensive. The oil gets changed at least 2 or 3 times a year, and not due to mileage. I'm sure it would be fine on cheaper stuff, but maybe I've got money than sense. Maybe not, I don't care. It's my bike and my money. and no, I've never had any clutch slip problems using fully synth. Each to their own. To be fair, if i could afford to, I'd probably put posh stuff in, but due to the miles that i do every month, I tend to change the oil every month or two. and i can't justify spending £40 quid a time on oil. We ran bog standard cheap oil in the GSXR600 while we were running in the cams. The bike was run in on the dyno and after about 5 heat cycles and about 60 miles on the dyno we swapped the oil to Rock Oil XRP and ran the bike again back to back. There was about 4 BHP gain instantly just with a change of oil. The "old" oil only had only been used during the running in period so it was not due to crap worked out oil being swapped for fresh. XRP can be used for the usual road mileage and not have to be changed more often like some of the thinner oils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilchicken0 Posted September 11, 2009 Report Share Posted September 11, 2009 That's interesting Morepower. As both Diogo and I have similar engines GSX-R1100W. I'll use a 10w40 semi sythetic in mine but maybe I'll change. Mine won't be run in on the dyno but I hadn't thought of heat cycling the engine ... I guess you do it like curing paint, run it a little allow to cool then run a t little more etc ...??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted September 11, 2009 Report Share Posted September 11, 2009 We ran bog standard cheap oil in the GSXR600 while we were running in the cams. The bike was run in on the dyno and after about 5 heat cycles and about 60 miles on the dyno we swapped the oil to Rock Oil XRP and ran the bike again back to back. There was about 4 BHP gain instantly just with a change of oil. The "old" oil only had only been used during the running in period so it was not due to crap worked out oil being swapped for fresh. XRP can be used for the usual road mileage and not have to be changed more often like some of the thinner oils. That surprises me! I'd always thought it was just marketing BS. Where did you get the oil from? i can only seem to find either Castrol or Fuchs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morepower Posted September 13, 2009 Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 That surprises me! I'd always thought it was just marketing BS. Where did you get the oil from? i can only seem to find either Castrol or Fuchs. I got it as part of the support from Rock Oil.... But as we did so well I am now one of their dealers... So all Rock Oil products can now be purchased through me... If anyone has a Rock Oil calendar this month and next the project bike is featured in the calendar. Evilchicken0, Running in is not just about wear. It is more about heat cycles and stress relieving the parts. My 2 stroke race bikes were all run in with the heat cycle routine. Never had one seize up on me and it was always the same method. Warm the bike up fully for about 10 to 15 minutes blipping the throttle gently through it all...Not letting the engine sit at a constant RPM. This was done 5 times then the bike was taken out in practice (if racing) or out for about 6 laps (if testing) at a gentle pace. The next practice session (we used to get 2 if we begged the organiser) was a gentle warm up and 2 steady laps before opening up the bike fully and going at race pace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potheadpixi Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Generally, you get what you pay for IMO... although It's all down to what you want from your bike / oil. If you're just running an SV650 on the commuter run, why go for top spec expensive oil ? On the other hand, why skimp on the life blood of your new £10K R1 / GSXR / 1198 - epecially if you ride it hard. The job oil does in seperating loaded metal surfaces in your engine is incredible. The reasurrance of paying an extra £10 per litre vs possible engine damage / premature wear / rebuild cost ? No brainer as far as I am concerned. Check out www.opieoils.co.uk PP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morepower Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Mebbe but reckon its more to do with Rock Oil producing a 0W oil, Castrol do too and you can get some useful power gains with them. 2-3bhp on a 600 superstocker which is worth doing. XRP is a 5W30 oil not a 0W30. They claim they could get more from a 0W oil but the life of the oil is limited and they didn't want to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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